Step Two: Making the pocket opening
Pinch the rectangle and cut right in the middle. Cut on the line to, but not through, the corners.
Push the lining through the opening of the pocket. Working on the reverse side, Press the seam allowance open with one side the lining and the other side the fashion fabric. This will help make the rectangle very crisp. Sew the rectangle on the right side of the fabric now and push the lining slightly inside so it does not show. Remember I used black thread when sewing the rectangle so it is not so attractive. Yours will be better since you will be matching the thread to the fabric.
Put this aside and let’s work on the butterfly.
Step Three: Making the butterfly
Fuse the remaining fusible interfacing to a rectangle that is 5″ x 7″. This size is big enough to make two welts.
Cut two welts following your pattern piece. For the purpose of this exercise, the welts need to be 2″ by 7″. These welts should match the grain of the pocket opening and match as much as possible the print of the fabric. When the pockets are slanted the welts can be cut on a bias.
Place right sides together and sew using a big stitch (basting stitch) right in the middle.
Fold back each welt so you do not see the stitching line. This is why it is called a butterfly. Iron crisp and flat.
Step Four: Making the flap
If you are making just a normal flap, the most important measurement is the width of your finished pocket. The length of the flap will depend on the design of the coat or jacket. However, 2″ is the average measurement for a finished flap.
The flap pattern will already come with the coat of jacket pattern you are using, but if you want to add piping to it, the key factor is to measure the opening you already have. Measure the width of your piping. My piping is 1/8″ meaning that 1/4″ of my pocket will be taken by the piping. Measure the pocket opening minus the 1/4″ for piping= flap width. Draw the flap. Your flap can have crisp or rounded corners. It really is up to you.
For a detailed tutorial on how to sew the piping and make a flap in a super easy way check my last tutorial.