Double welt pocket with flap by the butterfly method

Step Two:  Making the pocket opening

Pinch the rectangle and cut right in the middle. double welt pocket with flapCut on the line to, but not through, the corners. double welt pocket with flap

Push the lining through the opening of the pocket.  Working on the reverse side, double welt pocket with flapPress the seam allowance open with one side the lining and the other side the fashion fabric.  This will help make the rectangle very crisp. double welt pocket with flapSew the rectangle on the right side of the fabric now and push the lining slightly inside so it does not show. double welt pocket with flapRemember I used black thread when sewing the rectangle so it is not so attractive.  Yours will be better since you will be matching the thread to the fabric.

Put this aside and let’s work on the butterfly.

Step Three:  Making the butterfly

Fuse the remaining fusible interfacing to a rectangle that is 5″ x 7″.  This size is big enough to make two welts.

Cut two welts following your pattern piece.  For the purpose of this exercise, the welts need to be 2″ by 7″.  These welts should match the grain of the pocket opening and match as much as possible the print of the fabric.  When the pockets are slanted the welts can be cut on a bias.

Place right sides together and sew using a big stitch (basting stitch) right in the middle. double welt pocket with flap

Fold back each welt so you do not see the stitching line.  This is why it is called a butterfly.  Iron crisp and flat. double welt pocket with flap

Step Four:  Making the flap

If you are making just a normal flap, the most important measurement is the width of your finished pocket.  The length of the flap will depend on the design of the coat or jacket.  However, 2″ is the average measurement for a finished flap.

The flap pattern will already come with the coat of jacket pattern you are using, but if you want to add piping to it, the key factor is to measure the opening you already have.  Measure the width of your piping.  My piping is 1/8″ meaning that 1/4″ of my pocket will be taken by the piping.  Measure the pocket opening minus the 1/4″ for piping= flap width.  Draw the flap.  Your flap can have crisp or rounded corners.  It really is up to you.

For a detailed tutorial on how to sew the piping and make a flap in a super easy way check my last tutorial.

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8 Responses to Double welt pocket with flap by the butterfly method

  1. Marie says:

    I cannot seem to get to the next page. Any ideas?

  2. Catherine says:

    Your tutorials are SOOOO helpful! Glad I foudn you!

  3. Maureen McQ says:

    This is such an elegant way to attach the welts and flap. I love that it minimizes the number of times I have to sew around the box, it is far easier than the method I learned in tailoring. Looking forward to trying it next month.

  4. WillieMae Charles says:

    Very nice. I will try it.

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