Free Little Black Dress Pattern

Summer is coming!  It's time to think about what you'll wear for the season this year.  Want to wow them at the summer office party?  Then you'll need something ‘on-trend' and with lace, one-shoulder and asymmetrical dresses all being in fashion, I've combined to create a free little black dress pattern that I think is a winner.

Little Black Dress pattern - free sewing pattern for the perfect party dress from So Sew Easy.

(Excuse photos for this one – stormy weather this week and my hair just won't lie flat!)

Features:

  • Lace, net, mesh or chiffon overlay
  • Lined bodice, lined skirt optional
  • Darted bodice, and straight skirt with small pleats or darts
  • Invisible side zipper
  • Overlay can hang lower than the inner skirt if you like
  • Range of sizes
  • Super flattering – sexy but not revealing

Fabric Recommendations from Fabric.com

Skill level: Intermediate

The instructions for this dress assume that you already have experience in sewing with non-stretch fabrics and making basic fitting adjustments necessary in any pattern to achieve a good personal fit. You should know how to sew an invisible zipper.

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Experience in lining a dress is also useful but not essential.  The instructions provided for this project assume a certain level of knowledge and experience and don't go into details on how to finish your seams, insert a zipper, etc.

Little Black Dress pattern - free sewing pattern for the perfect party dress from So Sew Easy.

Where can you get the little black dress pattern?

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Download the Little Black Dress pattern

As usual, to make downloading easy and reliable, the pattern is hosted in my design account with Payhip. If you don’t already have an account, you will need to sign up to download, but don’t worry, it’s free, quick and easy. Add the pattern to your cart, and then checkout – no payment/address details etc needed.

Download multi-size pattern pieces from my design account at Payhip...

 

Can I see some more pics before I decide?

Of course you can.  Here are some other views of the little black party dress.

Little Black Dress pattern - free sewing pattern for the perfect party dress from So Sew Easy.

Choosing your fabrics

For the inner fabric you will need a non-stretch fabric with somebody to it.  I used a crepe backed satin, as it is slightly thicker and easier to sew than a regular satin might be.

The overlay may be in a sheer fabric such as lace, net, mesh or chiffon.  This can either have some give to it or be fixed depending on what you have available.  Decorative fabric with embroidery, sequins or lace would look lovely. See some examples at the bottom of the post.

I'm using a mesh with ribbon decoration and sequins.  My overlay comes with a ready-made scalloped edge which I used for the hemline. For the lining fabrics, something lightweight such as a pongee, Bemberg lining or cotton voile.

Making up your pattern

Your pattern is conveniently split into 2 pieces to make it more manageable – the front and the back.  Each piece is labeled with a letter and number – B for back an F for the front.  Numbers run top to bottom and left to right.  Cut off or turn under the page edges and match the borders with the adjoining pages.

If you need more information on how to put together your pattern, you can read more in the Summer Drape Top.

Each pattern piece has one bodice and one skirt piece, and the front and back look similar.  Lay out pieces 1 to 6 in the top row, then 7 to 12 in the second row and lastly pages 13 and 14 complete the skirt at the bottom right. Your completed pattern should look something like this (excuse the state of my patio!):

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

What Size Do I Need?

The dress is made from a non-stretch fabric and therefore takes more fitting and includes more ease and fitting allowance than some of my earlier knit patterns.  Fitting ease is included in the pattern so you can adjust and take in for your own personal measurements. Please use this table as a guide only as although our body measurements may be similar, different body shapes may require fitting differently.

If you want to learn more about how to pick the right pattern size, make a muslin and get the correct fit. Making a muslin is always recommended prior to cutting your good fabric.  If you are in between measurements, do measure the actual pattern pieces to determine what size would suit you best.

  Bust Waist Hips
Extra Small  30-31.5  23-24  32-33.5
Small  32-33  24.5-25.5  34-35.5
Medium  34-36  26-28  36-38

If you fall in between sizes, you can also cut between the lines, and you can ‘grade’ from one size to another by, for example, cutting a small in the waist curving out to a medium at the hip if you need to.   The pattern is fairly simple, so you should be able to upgrade to a larger size if you need to.  I added extra to the waist and hips for my dress. Always test the fit using the paper pattern pieces, or an inexpensive test fabric before cutting your expensive fabric for this dress.  

If in doubt test the larger size and adjust for fitting at the side seams during construction. Adjustments to length.  The dress is designed to fit an average height – I am 5’6″. If you are taller or prefer the skirt to be longer, simply add some length to the skirt piece at the bottom. If you are using a pre-finished fabric with the hemline already made, check the skirt length before cutting your fabric and attaching the skirt to the bodice.

Cutting your fabric

Start by using your pattern pieces to cut your inner fabric.  You will need a bodice front and back, and a skirt front and back.

You can then lay your inner fabric either on top or underneath your sheer overlay and if there is a pattern to your lace, you can line up your pattern as you want it prior to cutting using your lining fabric as a pattern.  I suggest leaving some excess around the overlay fabric as it can be delicate and shift during cutting or sewing.  Allowing a little extra in the seam allowances will help with this and can be trimmed off later.

If your overlay has a pre-finished edge, take this into account when you cut your fabric, allow for the inner layer to be hemmed and for the outer layer to hang lower if you want.  You can also finish them so they are both the same length.  The finished look and length is up to you.

You may also use the inner fabric pieces to cut your lining.  You can choose either a bodice lining or a full lining.  The lining pieces will be the mirror image of the inner fabric pieces and will finish with wrong sides together, so lay your fabric this way to cut.

Little Black Dress Sewing Instructions

Seam allowances â€“ 5/8th of an inch throughout unless mentioned.

Abbreviations used: RST – right sides together.

Note on skirt darts – darts are shown on the skirt pattern should you wish to use them for a closer fit, or you may simply choose to pleat the fabric as I did in this example.

Our first step is to join the inner fabric with the overlay fabric and then we can treat them as one going forward.  Simply baste the two pieces of fabric together, with the right side of the inner fabric facing the wrong side of the overlay.  In the seam allowances, baste the two pieces together using large fairly loose stitches.

I have done mine in white so you can see them better, but you should probably use a matching thread in case your basting just peeps out anywhere later on.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Baste together the two bodice pieces on all sides.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Baste together the skirt pieces at the waist and on the side seams until you get near to the bottom.  If you overlay has a pre-finished hemline, you will need to keep this free from the inner fabric which is to be hemmed.  So do not baste the two together for the last few inches to allow for this later.  Make sure your hemlines are parallel.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Once the pieces are all basted together, we will treat them as one piece of fabric going forward. Stay-stitch neckline edges in the seam allowance to prevent stretching on the bias as we work.  (Read this tutorial on staystitching.)

Mark, pin and stitch all bodice darts, front and back.  Make sure your two fabrics are lying flat together as you sew the darts.  (Useful tutorials – How to mark darts accurately.  How to sew darts perfectly.)

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Press darts down or to the center. Join bodice at the shoulder, RST.  Press seam open.

little-black-dress-006

Join the shoulder seam of the lining fabric, RST.  Press seam open.

Pin lining to dress bodice, matching shoulder seam, RST. Pin along neckline and around armhole.

little-black-dress-008

Stitch lining in place, leaving 2 inches free and un-sewn at each end under the arm where the zipper will go. Trim and grade seam allowances and clip around curves.

little-black-dress-009

Turn the bodice the right side out by turning through the tunnel at the shoulder seam.  Magic!

Understitch as far as possible to keep the lining in place and then press well, paying attention to press along neckline and armhole making sure the lining fabric is turned well to the inside so it doesn't show on the outside.

little-black-dress-012

little-black-dress-014

Sew the side seam on the bodice and lining under the armhole.  Match up under the arm and pin. Pin sides seams front and back and the lining.

Open out and sew in one seam from the waistline of the bodice through to the waistline of the lining.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Clip away excess fabric at the underarm point to reduce bulk.  Press seams open.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Take the skirt front and back and hem the inner fabrics separately on each piece.  If your overlay fabric needs hemming, do this too.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Join the skirt front and back RST at the side seam that goes under the shoulder strap, leaving the other seam open for the zipper.  Neaten and finish your seams.

Trim and neaten seams on the lace overlay if this hangs below the inner fabric.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Match side seam on skirt with side seam on bodice RST, pin at this point.  Match opposite side seam where the zipper will go, matching bodice and skirt edge.  Skirt piece should be too wide for the bodice.

little-black-dress-024

Pin skirt to bodice at the waist seam, starting at side seams and working in.  At the dart points on the bodice,  evenly place a small pleat on either side in the skirt fabric to make it lie evenly with the width of the bodice.

Repeat for the skirt front and back.  Check that pleats are correctly placed from the outside.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Stitch skirt to bodice at the waist. Grade seams to reduce bulk and press seam upwards towards the bodice.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Pin invisible zipper to side seam.  Check zipper length and reduce if necessary.  The zipper will need to be long enough to allow the dress to pass over your widest point at the hips. Keep the lining fabric clear.

(Tutorial on how to reduce the length of zippers and insert an invisible zipper.)

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Try on the dress and make any fitting adjustments necessary. Sew the zipper to side seam, matching the waist seam and checking fabric layers are lying flat and not puckered.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Finish the side seam below the zipper and press the seam open.  Neaten and finish seams.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Return to the lining at the top of the zipper.  Turn the dress inside out and even up by stitching the remaining lining to the outer fabrics crossing over just above the top zipper stop on each side.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

If you are adding a skirt lining, pin and stitch this to the bottom of the bodice lining now, matching side seams and pleating excess fabric as you did for the outer skirt pieces.

If you are only lining the bodice, like in my example, turn up the bottom of your bodice lining to the inside and stitch a 5/8 hem.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Turn the dress completely inside out exposing the zipper tape.  Pin the edge of the lining fabric to the zipper tape matching raw edges.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Turn over the top corner at the lining stitching line, turning towards the lining fabric.  Pin in place.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

Stitch lining fabric to the zipper tape on each side using your zipper foot.  Don't sew the lining in too tight to the zipper or it might catch – leave a small gap. Press lining at the zip to neaten.

little-black-dress-053

If the skirt is lined, finish the side seam in the lining and hem the lining fabric. If only the bodice is lined, slip stitch the bottom of the bodice lining to the waist seam allowance, pleating excess fabric at the darts.

Free little black dress pattern. Sew your own party dress, from So Sew Easy.

And you are finished!  Wear and enjoy your new dress and don’t forget to send me your photos.  

Suggested overlay fabrics

Little Black Dress pattern - free sewing pattern for the perfect party dress from So Sew Easy.


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Lisa
Lisa

Hello
The dress looks Amazing

Mayra Cecilia
Admin
Noble Member
Reply to  Lisa

Thank you, Lisa!

Rose La Pan-Davidson
Rose La Pan-Davidson

I’ve like many of your patterns but I fall into L/XL sizing. So, it’s nice to window shop!

Sonja
Sonja

I cannot find the pattern for the cowl neck dress you made. I love it!!!

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[…] Everyone needs a great Little Black Dress. […]

Kaitlyn
Kaitlyn

Super cute! How much fabric is needed for the overlay, inner fabric, and lining?

Wendy
Wendy

Wish you had bigger sizes. Looks like a beautiful dress!

Tracy Laster
Tracy Laster

I love this dress, but it doesn’t come in my size. Are all your patterns only up to L?

Karoline
Karoline

Thanks for this great pattern! I needed a one-shoulder-dress for a theatre-performance and couldn’t find a nice and affordable one, so I stumbled across your pattern and was really glad about how easy it was. I modified it a little bit (I added a volant and cut top and bottom as a single piece, I also sewed the layers seperately to achieve a little bit more flowy look), which was an easy thing, because the pattern itself was quite accurate and the description great. Once again: Thank you!

Mayra Cecilia
Admin
Noble Member
Reply to  Karoline

Beautiful dress! Hope your performance went well 🙂

Toria
Toria

“This dress would also look amazing in a light color fabric with a lace overlay – great for a summer dress or wedding.”

Challenge: Accepted!

With the date now pretty much set for summer 2016, it will be sewing a go-go this winter. First up a practice version in light blue, then on to a full on long skirted wedding gown.

This will be the first dress pattern I have followed since I was about 12. I have yet to decide if this is a good plan or not.

Wish me luck!!!

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  Toria

Yes good luck indeed. I can’t wait to see it!

bil
bil

I’m sorry, but that dress does not suit you…You’re an attractive woman and this dress takes away from you…

LInda
LInda

Such a beautiful dress, but I’m a plus woman, Do you have anything in the plus size woman catagory??? Don’t leave us plus size women out of this.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  LInda

I wish I could do more sizes Linda, but I start by drafting something for me then grade it up and down several sizes to try to ensure a good fit. Drafting for plus sizes is a whole different matter – just because a person might have a waist 50% larger than a smaller person, it doesn’t necessarily follow that their shoulders are 50% wider or their arms are 50% longer, etc. It requires another pattern to be drafted again from scratch based on the larger size and then graded up and down again. Usually the shape is entirely different. My pattern drafting skills are still in their infancy and without having any way to test a plus sized pattern, I’m very reluctant to draw one up, only to find that its not very good, the shape is all wrong and people end up wasting their time and fabric on it (and being annoyed with me). Some of my patterns that aren’t so fitted do come in a larger range of sizes, but sorry, not this one. Sorry to disappoint you.

Andrea
Andrea

Deby, just wanted to say thank you on a wonderful website! I have just started sewing after attending a “how to make a cushion and learn how to use a sewing machine course” so Im very new at sewing/dressmking but have managed to make 2 tops and 2 simple shift dresses. My next project will be your gorgeous wrap dress! What a lovely pattern. I bet you receive many nice comments from the local Caymanians on your lovely wardrobe! I used to live in Bermuda for 10 years so am well aware of the limited clothes shops and reasonably priced nice garments! It is really so nice of you to share such wonderful patterns and easy to follow steps. I am so excited!! Thanks again Andrea

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  Andrea

I’ve not ever been to Bermuda but I understand that is probably even more like Britain than it is here in Cayman. I must visit one day. Yes, choice is very limited or unaffordable so sewing is the way to go here for a cheap casual wardrobe. Welcome to sewing and to the site – I hope you find it as exciting and absorbing as I do.

tracie
tracie

deb
I love this look .you look fab in it. I can only make something with a pattern. but I am goning to have a go at this fab dress. thanks for shareing with us

Janee
Janee

“Recently started to be interested in sewing?” Wow, you’re a natural! I would love try some of your patterns. Wondering if you’ve tried adding in a built in bra? That’ s a favorite feature of mine, but don’t find many patterns that include one.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  Janee

Hi Janee and thanks for dropping in. It’s been just over a year since I started sewing, and blogging and yes, I LOVE it! But I’ve had a lot of help along the way with the online sewing classes I have taken that have lifted me up from absolute beginner to enthusiastic novice. I’ve never yet tried adding in a built in bra to anything I’ve made. I’ve seen it mentioned sometimes in swimwear and exercise wear tutorials, but I simply don’t have access to the right kind of fabrics here in the Cayman islands. Plus these tutorials always seem to be tight ‘minimisers’ which support by squishing and I prefer a good bit of padding and uplift at my age! I’ll certainly keep it in mind for the future.

Annie
Annie

I am new here how do you download the pattern.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  Annie

Click on the big download box Annie. There is an orange box with the heading Download The Little Black Dress pattern, and inside an orange button which says Download from here. It takes you out to my designer account at Craftsy. Once there, you add the pattern to your cart and checkout. If you haven’t used Craftsy before you will be asked to register but they don’t ask for an address or any payment details. Add the pattern to your cart, check out, no payment etc required. I hope this helps but if you have any questions, just let me know – Deby

nester rathamana
nester rathamana

deby,thanks for the extensive instruction and that is a gorgeous dress its lovely.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member

So glad you like it Nester. I think this could look lovely in so many different fabric combinations and for so many occasions. I hope you try it.

Pam @Threading My Way
Pam @Threading My Way

A stunning dress, Deby!!!

Krista
Krista

I love it! I also love the fabric you used, it is so elegant! If I can find a fabric that is suitable, I will definately add this to my project list. Thank you for this wonderful pattern and the extensive instructions!! 🙂

Katherines Corner

its gorgeous! You look terrific in it too. Thank you for sharing at the Thursday Favorite Things blog hop. You help to make it so much fun.♥

Heather Feather

That’s a gorgeous dress! I LOVE one shoulder dresses! Thanks for the free pattern!

Carla Proffitt
Carla Proffitt

Woman, you look HOT! That LBD is so becoming on you!

Linda @ With A Blast

Stunning, Deby! I had a similar dress but gave it away ..why,why?? One can do really stupid things sometimes 😉

Jill in NJ
Jill in NJ

This dress is very nice and you are so generous with the free pattern and great tutorial! I am still astonished that you haven’t been sewing for years! Good for you.

Starry A

Thank you for a lovely pattern and the detailed tutorial 🙂

CreativaCale

You are pretty women and dress is for You.Tut is the best.Thanks!

Jenya

Stunning! Simply stunning. I think lace is suich a gorgeous feminine material. The dress looks fantastic on you.

ROBIN
ROBIN

That is a gorgeous dress, and nice tutorial! Thank you again!!

Diane Cullum
Diane Cullum

It’s beautiful and looks really great on you!

Sandy

Just Lovely!!!! Wonderful of you to share the pattern :O)

Avril Corbett

I think it looks great – I hope I get occasion to make and wear one!

CarmencitaB

Thank you very much!

Hesther x
Hesther x

Wow Deby you’ve done it again. What a stunning dress…..i cannot wait to get better at sewing so i can make this….i am just learning to machine sew.