In many parts of the world Autumn or Fall is here and Winter is on the way. It's time to think about wrapping up warm and adding an extra layer. When I'm not in shorts, I'm in leggings. So enjoy this free tutorial for a custom leggings pattern.
(There's no sensible or glamorous way to model leggings on the internet, so I thought I might as well make a complete fool of myself and have some fun. I can't remember the number of times I fell off this log after setting the timer and running ! These wobbly photos are the best of the lot.)
Surely everyone love leggings. Wear them under short dresses or tunics, wear them to the gym and for exercising, lounge around at home and even sleep in them. Wear them long and ankle length, calf for jogging, knee length or even as cycling shorts. Wear them in wool, jersey, lycra, stripes, prints and lightweight for summer. Leggings are versatile and an essential part of your wardrobe.
This tutorial will show you how to easily draft your own custom fit leggings pattern and my unique spreadsheet will make drawing your pattern easy. This is a quick and easy sew and once you have your pattern to keep, you can run up a new pair of leggings whenever you like in whatever fabric you like.
Taking your measurements
Equipment needed:
- Tape measure and note pad
- Paper to draw your pattern (I use this large roll of paper for pattern drafting and tracing too. Strong but see-thru.)
- Ruler
- Paper scissors
- Painters tape/masking tape
- Close fitting clothing such as existing leggings, tights or just in your undies
If you are lucky, you might have a helper to assist with the measurements, but perhaps its just you, so I've made a video to show you how and where to take these measurements to get the best fit.
(Once the video starts to play, you can change the quality for a clearer picture using the little ‘gear' icon on the bottom right.)
Subscribe to the YouTube channel:
All about ease
Now that you have your measurements recorded, before we start to draft the pattern, there's one important decision to make – ease. You may have come across the term ease before in sewing. Most usually in woven garments that don't stretch, the ease is the difference in the measurement of the finished garment and your corresponding body measurement. So a shirt may have a finished bust measurement of 38 and if your bust actually measures 36 inches, then there are 2 inches of ‘positive ease' in this pattern. Ease is there for two reasons – comfort and movement, and design and styling.
However in stretch garments, comfort and movement are not as much of an issue because the fabric stretches while you move. So ease is more about styling. For leggings, there would not normally be any ease – they fit your body. In fact, in a very stretchy fabric, you may even decide to add ‘negative ease' where the fabric measurement is LESS than your body measurement. This is particularly true of swimwear, maybe exercise wear and certainly shapewear and underwear such as Spanx.
So you need to decide about ease. You can have no negative ease and make the leggings to fit you according to your measurements, or you can add negative ease of up to 10% to make them fit you skin tight with a little stretch – like the leggings in the shops will usually do. The calculator spreadsheet allows you to use any number you like, but I recommend 90 -100% with 90 giving the tight fit and 100 giving the looser fit. Note – adding a number greater than 100 won't work with this calculator.
Using the easy spreadsheet
Now that you have your measurements, you'll want to enter them into the spreadsheet in order to work out the length of the lines for drawing your pattern. You can enter your measurements in centimeters or in inches (but not both) and the results come out in both too.
Remember to fill in the box for ease percentage, a number in the range 90-100 is recommended. 90 for very stretchy fabrics and a tight fit, 100 for less stretchy and a looser fit, and any number in between.
Download the Custom-Fit Leggings spread-sheet from our website.
How to draw your pattern
Start with a large piece of paper. This will need to be the full length of your leggings from waist to ankle plus about 4 inches. For the width, use your thigh circumference plus about 4 inches. Tape together smaller pieces of paper if you need to.
Now find the center of your paper and draw a long straight line from the top to the bottom. This is your ‘center line' and represents the line along the side of your leg where you measured earlier. There is no seam line here on leggings.
Follow along with these instructions as I draw my own pattern. I'm working in a smaller scale to make it easier to see and photgraph.
1. About 2 inches down from the top of your paper, make a mark on the center line. Then measure down this line towards the bottom measurement A. This is the approximate length of your leggings. Make a mark.
2. Now take the ankle circumference B, and draw a horizontal line where you have marked, centering it on the middle line. So if your line B is 9 inches, draw 4.5 inches on one side of the center and 4.5 inches on the other side.
3. From your ankle line, measure up C and make a mark. This is where your knee will hit.
4. Draw line D at the knee point, centering the knee circumference over the center line, same on either side.
5. Measure up from the knee line measurement E and mark. This is your thigh line. Draw on your thigh circumference F, centering it on the center line.
6. Connect the ends of the lines down to make the inseam of your pattern on either side. As our bodies are curved not pointed, smooth out the transition at the knee to make a gentle curve rather than a point.
7. Now it's time to deal with the rise depth. On the right hand side of the pattern, this will be the front of your body. Write front there to remind you. From the right hand end of the thigh line, measure in and mark measurement G.
8. From this mark, draw a line straight up, at right angles to the thigh line, your front rise height measurement H.
9. Let's repeat for the back. On the left hand side of the thigh line, measure in and mark the back depth J and mark. Draw a line up at right angles, measurement K.
10. Now draw in the waist line at the top between these two upright lines. Start out straight for a little while at the right hand side (front) and curve the line gently to meet the waist at the back. The back rise will usually be higher.
11. Now take your ruler and draw in a line from the top of the back waist to about halfway along that little line that is sticking out at thigh level on the left. This allows for some extra space in the back for your behind.
12. Finally draw in curves using a plate or other round object to fill in those lower corners. Your basic pattern is now drawn.
13. Decide on your seam allowances. For the waist, add the width of your elastic – usually 3/4 inch or 1 inch. For the ankle seam, you only need a small amount – say an inch. For the side seams, it depends on how you intend to sew. If you are using a regular zig-zag or stretch stitch, then you might want to include a standard 5/8th inch seam allowance and trim your seams later. I'll be using an overcasting stitch which sews close to the edge of the fabric so I only need a small seam allowance – about 1/4 of an inch. Draw in your seam allowance all the way round your pattern.
14. Cut it out and mark it up so you can save it to use over again. Add any notes you think will be useful.
This full tutorial on drafting the pattern and sewing the leggings is available as a PDF download for you to keep. To make downloading easy and reliable, the tutorial is hosted in my design account with Payhip. If you don’t already have an account, you will need to sign up to download, but don’t worry, it’s free, quick and easy. Add the pattern to your cart, and then checkout – no payment/address details etc needed.
Types of fabric to use
If you already own leggings then you will be familiar with the types of stretch fabrics they are usually made from. When selecting fabrics, stretch and recovery and most important. If the fabric is fairly thick and only has ‘give' rather than stretch then you will find your leggings hard to get on, and stiff to move around in. Look for fabric that contains lycra/spandex at least 5%. 5-10% would be better. Lycra/spandex allows the fabric to stretch, but it also gives it rebound.
A 100% cotton jersey will certainly stretch, but test some out in your local fabric shop or on a scrap you own – give it a good stretch. When you let go, does it look the same as before or does it still look a bit stretched, a bit wrinkly? Without that lycra, the fabric won't rebound back into shape the same way. That's Ok for pj's but you won't want to go out in leggings that don't rebound because before you know it, your leggings will be suffering from baggy bum and loose knees.
How to sew your leggings
Fold your fabric in half with the two selvedge edges together. Place your pattern on the fabric with the center line parallel to the selvedge. Cut out two pieces of fabric using your new pattern so you get two mirror image pieces.
Put these two pieces right sides together and pin along the front and back curve only.
Sew using a stretch stitch, narrow zig-zag stitch or serger to allow the stitches to stretch with the fabric.
Most knit fabrics don't unravel but you might want to trim your edges down to about 1/4 of an inch and then finish with a zig-zag or another row of stretch stitches for strength.
Now pick up the pieces and put the front and back center seams together and now they look like leggings. Match up the leg seams, pin and then stitch.
Try on your leggings for fit, adjust if necessary. Check out the height of the waist front and back and make any adjustment. Take your wide elastic around your waist (or where you want the top of the leggings to come on your body) until you get a comfortable fit and mark it where it overlaps, but don't cut it just yet.
On the inside of the leggings, pin one end of the elastic to the center back seam. Now mark half way and quarter way around on both the leggings waist seam and the elastic. Match up those marks and pin in place so the elastic is evenly spaced. You may have some excess fabric.
Stitch the elastic to the waist of the leggings using a triple stretch stitch if you have one, or a large zig-zag stitch. Slightly stretch the elastic if needed to match the fabric, but don't stretch the fabric at the waist as you sew.
When you get to the overlap, cut the elastic flush with the other end to reduce bulk. Secure the two ends together with a few zig zag stitches.
Turn the elastic inwards, keeping a nice tight edge and then stitch again over the previous stitching to hold it in place.
Try on the leggings and check the length. Turn in the hemline and stitch using a twin needle or a narrow zig-zag stitch. And you are finished. Now use that same pattern to go and sew lots more. They're really quick to sew!
The pattern can also be adapted to make leggings for children too. In the case of children, you may probably prefer leaving the ease setting at 100 for a looser fit.
Want to be featured on So Sew Easy? Send in photos or links to things you've made with my patterns or tutorials. Feedback, comments, suggestions and requests all also welcome.
Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy
Hi, I’m excited to get started on a pair of leggings for a young dancer, but I’m technology-challenged and can’t seem to get the downloaded spreadsheet calculator to work. None of the fields will accept an entry. Once I download it and click on the downloaded file, it opens in “XLS Opener” which makes me wonder if there’s something else I need to do before it will become functional. Thank you!
Google Sheets is your answer to have fully functional editing capabilities without having to pay for Office. Search Google for Sheets. Use Sheets to open the file. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for this! Instructions for making the pattern are easy to understand. I would love to translate them into Finnish!
HI Johanna, I am happy you are happy, Google translate is operating in this site so there is no need to translate but thank you!
First off, let me thank you for the well written instructions and the spreadsheet! The only way you could make it easier is to take our measurements!! 🙂 I’d like to try to make different length, between a Yoga short and a capri, probably a few inches above my knee (I get too hot when doing Zumba!). I think all I need to do is measure the length from my waist to where I want the length to be, then the circumference at that point. Have I made the correct assumptions? Thanks again for all the great patterns and information you provide us!
I am attempting to draft your leggings. I am dreadful with measurements, BTW. My length for the front rise does not add up to the length of the waist. The waistline is higher …..What have I done?
I just drafted and Sewed a pair of leggings from your tutorial. It is the first pair of leggings that actually fit me! And it fits perfect.
I can’t thank you enough for sharing your experience.
Thanks!
You are welcome Pam!
LOVE the accuracy of this technique. I can’t wait to make a pair for my dancer daughter! I have a quick question though How can I add extra in the rear. She’s very thin, but has a “shapely” rear. I see it’s mentioned in step 11 “This allows for some extra space in the back for your behind” is there a way to adjust this for the “extra space” or will the measurements just work out fine?
I just watched the video again, and I see the back rise measurement is where the extra room for the backside will be accounted for :o)
It will work with the measurements.
Can you help me understand negative ease? How do i accurarly adjust my measurements to have proper negative ease for my leggings? Thank you so much! Love your tutorials
What do you mean by proper? 10% ? 20? 30? 50? what is your level of comfort? It all depends on the fabric you are using and how tight you want the leggings to be. Take your measurements and subtract the percentage you want or need, then add a seam allowance. I suggest you start with 10% and work from there.
Question: When measuring around the knee, do I measure while my knee is bent or straight?
HI Gysela, Always Straight 🙂
Amazing, thanks for the help.
Hi, I have used this pattern several times and love it, but went back to put my daughters measurements in the when I downloaded the spreadsheet there was nothing in it. Please help.
Hi! I wrote an email on February 14th asking for help adapting this to a pregnancy leggings pattern and got no reply. So I am asking again. How do I adapt this to a pregnant body? Thank you in advance for your help.
I need 16 hours of solid work to be able to explain to you how to do it. (a proper tutorial) It is easy but you need pattern transformation skills. There is no “easy” way to explain in words alone how to do it.
I bought a piece of custom printed “swim” fabric that is 86% polyester and 14% Lycra that was just too fabulous to pass up. After drafting my custom pattern at 100%, it is 30.25″ (thigh circumference) at its widest part. It’s also 36.5 inched long from top to bottom (without allowances). I only bought one yard because the fabric was NOT cheap. I plan to compensate on the length by making capris length instead of full length. But my question is this….
Do I need to think of something else to do with this fabric? If I go down to 90% my width is 29″ and will fit the width of the fabric when folded (it’s a 60″ fabric). But then I worry that with the high Lycra content I will, in essence, be making a pair of custom “spanx”. I thought about buying a cheaper piece of swim fabric to test the pattern but decided to ask for some advice first. Do you have any? I’ve worked with stretch knits, but never one with this much Lycra.
Hi Rhonda, The best thing to do when you are working with expensive fabric is to make it first in a cheaper fabric but make sure the lycra content is the same.
I want to follow your fantastic tutorial to make some leggings but I have a question. I’ve looked at other questions regarding the front and back rise depth and I’m still confused.
How do you measure to get the numbers to enter?
Are you measuring from the crotch seam of a pair of well fitting leggings up to the waist front and back?
Or are you measuring from a chair to waist front and back while seated (a common way of measuring seat depth for pants)?
And thank you so much for putting the spreadsheet together as a download!
didn’t you watch the measuring tutorial?
THANK YOU!!! My 6 year old is impossible to fit, even in leggings – she needs a low front rise, a high back rise, and shorter legs than I’m finding in the stores. Not to mention that she’s very active, and will wear through a pair of leggings in about 2 weeks! Drafted and sewed up my first pair for her last night, and they fit astoundingly well right out of the gate – a couple of minor tweaks and they’ll be perfect. So grateful for your tutorial and spreadsheet. Hope you have a wonderful holiday season!
What a fantastic and SO thorough tutorial. I’m a beginning sewer and this was just what I needed to get started. You’ve got a follower for life now LOL! Thank you so much!!
These are amazing! Great fit and so simple! Wonderful tutorial. thank you!
All of my current leggings have a gusset – have you attempted to draft a pattern with a gusset? I’m going to give it a go *fingers crossed*
We do not have a pattern with a gusset, but now that you mention it…..
Wow I made them! This was my first time sewing knit material,, making my own pattern and sewing in an elastic waist band. Turned out pretty good. I should have made the elastic tighter when I measured it around my waist tho. I didn’t know you were to stretch it around your waist instead of just place it. Another day I will rip out the elastic and re sew it tighter. Thanks for putting zig zag hints in, that was helpful.
Great tutorial! I didn’t feel like figuring out drafting my own pattern, I was about to go to the store and find a commercial pattern, but I found this 🙂 Thank you so much.
You’re very welcome. Happy sewing!
Hi, Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was wondering, however, when I went to download the spreadsheet to get my measurements for the pattern it wouldn’t let me put my measurements in. I downloaded it to my excel and opened it and it still wouldn’t. Am I doing something wrong?
Thank you so much!
Hi Stephanie, I have checked the link and the file and everything seems OK. Just to make it simpler I have moved the file from Dropbox to our website so you don’t need to go through the Dropbox system anymore. Please give it a try again.
When I downloaded the spreadsheet I had to Enable Editing. Then I could enter values. Worked like a charm after that!
Perfect Pam, you found the solutions:)
Thanks for this great tutorial! I’m excited to try it out because I can’t decide if I like the patterned legging trend these days and I don’t want to spend too much money to find out. Anyway, I’m not sure if you answered this question already, but can you give an estimate on how much fabric to purchase? If my full length measurement is 33 inches, 1 yard (36 inches) of 58″ wide fabric should be enough to make a pair, right?
Hi Vicki, One yard should be enough!
Has anyone used this pattern to make a pair of casual pull on pants? All you would have to do is widen the leg measurements to your taste.
By making the leggings according to your waist measurment, won’t they be to tight in the hips?
They only use the waist measurement for the waist, not the actual body/hips. If you look at the shape of the pattern, it does flare out, not stay the same all the way down. Of course that depends on your own personal and unique body shape and measurements. Personally I am wide through the waist compared to my hips so if you have more of a narrow waist and larger thighs for example, the shape of your custom pattern would look different to mine. The formula does work, so give it a try.
I’m not understanding the front and back rise depth., I understand height but don’t know where to put depth. Is that the line from end to J and G? Draw in that amount to begin rise height?
Hi Jeanne. Have you entered your measurements into the spreadsheet? The spreadsheet takes those measurements and calculates the lines that you need to draw the custom pattern, including the G and J that you are searching for, and allows for ease etc. You won’t be able to draw up the pattern without all of the information, so do start with the spreadsheet and then you’ll get all of the line lengths that you need.
Where do you buy the Lycra/ spandex blend fabric? I can only find spandex/polyester. Any websites you can recommend?
Lycra and spandex are the same thing, just different names. Lycra is a brand name. So you won’t find a fabric which is a Lycra and spandex mix. I get most of my knit fabrics from Fabric Mart online. You have to keep checking back because they sell out fast and turn over their stock frequently with new designs.
Deby, Thank you – for being soo sew generous in sharing your patterns and tutorials. The pattern details description and explanation is virtually without peer. The first time I watched you on a YouTube demonstration as you were finishing a cowl top, I knew I would like your blog, especially, the clarity for each pattern. Your designs suit my personal lifestyle and, while I like to dress fashionably, I prefer classics that I can enjoy year after year. Last year after a lifetime of disappointment with store bought clothing (on a budget) and more dissatisfaction with sewing patterns, I decided to learn how to make blocks for clothing. It has been a challenge and a joy. The finished quality and fabric, not to mention the savings are well worth the efforts in trial and error. Your tutorials have not only increased my confidence but are the icing and cherry on the cake.
BTW: Your beautiful black feline in the video is my excuse for distraction from paying attention to the legging measurement video. Love the replay button. All the best.
Oh wow I so want to try this!! I am only very short in stature, with a rather stubby figure so have great trouble getting jeans to fit me. Can I use this pattern to make jeggings, using the denim stretch material? Or would I need to make some alterations to this pattern to use this kind of material? Thanks for all you do!! I love watching what you make, and hope to get a sewing machine in a couple of weeks to start making myself and my housemate a new set of clothes!
Cheers from South Australia!
Maz 🙂
Hmm, not sure Marianne. I’m not really that familiar with stretch denim, and exactly how much it stretches. If you have one that is very stretchy, then yes, use 100% with no negative ease, and give it a try, but this has been designed to work with real stretchy fabric, like you would see in leggings, so I can’t really be sure of what the results would be for you. Sorry.
Deby,
First of all, what a wonderful site! I have searched for colorful running tights but to no avail so thought I would give it a go at making my own. I’m a beginner, but I have just finished making my second pair of leggings. I have learned lots along the way. Using regular thread on top & wooly thread in the bobbin (wound by hand), zigzag stitch, has worked the best for me. I added a simple drawstring which works well too. Quick question though on the intersection of the four seams (rises & legs) – any suggestions on making it less bunchy?
Thanks in advance for your guidance!
I fold my seam allowances in opposite directions as I sew over to keep them flat and keep it well trimmed down. I guess it also depends on the fabric thickness too.
Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou! I made the most comfortable maternity swim leggings! Saved big money. So thankful! <3
Gosh that took some doing, took me an hour to download the spreadsheet, not very techno minded. Hope my measuring is right, dont have anyone to do it for me. Hubby tried his best bless him. Cant wait to have a go now, thanks to Debi my todo list is getting longer and longer though lol
Just an added bit. Made my first pair, they are (to me) perfect the fit is fab. I have now cut out a second pair. The whole process (after downloading the spreadsheet) was so easy because of Deby’s fantastic instructions. If you are uncertain about the pattern just go for it, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Thanks Jennifer, these can become addictive, because once you have the pattern, they are so quick to sew! Try making capri length and then shorts too. These can look nice with lace at the bottom as well.
do intend to, was going to do them today but the gardening was calling, we have had two good days weatherwise, together for once lol
THANK YOU , THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I have been wanting a pair of leggings that were long enough (40″ legs) and didn’t give me a “muffin top” or leave all of my glory for the world to see when I bent over. I decided the only way I was going to get them was to make them. Alas, every tutorial I found started with an existing pattern or a ready made pair of leggings. Since I could not find either that worked for me, I felt that properly fitting leggings were a lost cause- until I found this amazing tutorial. I drafted my pattern- which was so simple with the spreadsheet and your easy to follow instructions, (I had never drafted a pattern before because it seemed so intimidating but, I’m ready to try another one now!) Cut out my fabric and whipped these up in no time! Literally drafting the pattern was the most time consuming part of this. My leggings fit like a dream, I could not be happier and I made the pattern out of muslin so it will be used over and over again. I am going to help my daughter who is 4’11” with a 18″ waist and 38″ hips to make a pair too- she is so excited and is planning to come over on her next day off to spend the day drinking tea and making leggings.
That’s wonderful to hear Andrea, I’m so happy it worked out so well for you. Nothing better than sewing something that is just especially designed based on your own measurements to fit you just right. And you are right about the time – now you have the pattern ready you can probably sew new leggings in 30 mins – quicker than buying them!
Hi Deby! This is a great tutorial and I am going to try it. Just wondering if you used a special needle for sewing knit/stretchy fabric for your machine. Thanks again for the pattern and everything! 🙂
You can get a needle called a ball point or a stretch needle. These are designed to slip between the fibers of the stretch fabric rather than potentially break them I think. That often gives a much better result with stretch fabrics and you get less skipped stitches etc. Good luck with your project.
Thank you for your help!!!
The dropbox is saying there is an error and I can’t seem to download the spreadsheet 🙁
I just checked the link Lanya and it was working fine for me and I was able to download it no problem. Can you try again? Do yu have any kind of security setting or firewall, etc on your computer that might prevent the download?
I love this tutorial, but how do you find the rise depth (J and G)?
You have to enter your measurements into the spreadsheet, and that works out all of the figures for you, including the J and G that you are looking for.
Oh! Thank you 🙂
fab pattern, thank you. fitted perfectly.
Wonderful. Do you feel brave enough to share a picture? We’d all love to take a look in the sewing chat group on FB. https://www.facebook.com/groups/soseweasychat/
I have a question about directional patterned fabric. I’m not sure how to phrase it so please bare with me. I’m getting my fabric from Spoonflower.com. I can choose from performance pique, performance knit, or Jersey knit. Jersey knit is the only one with spandex and has a 4 way stretch. Anyways, I am really tall and the patterned fabric is vertical but I’m taller than the fabric. What should I do to make a pair of leggings and still have the pattern running vertical while still getting the correct stretch? I hope that makes sense.
You would need to order more than 1 yard to make full length leggings. If you order 2 yards it comes as a continuous piece I do believe so then you would be able to cut your leggings without a problem. You should double check with them first at Spoonflower to make sure the piece will be continuous. But otherwise you would have to join the fabric. You could do this and make a ‘design’feature a the knee, but continuous length would be best.
It does come in a continuous piece but then the pattern on the fabric will be going the wrong way and there won’t be any stretch. That’s what I’m confused on.
If the pattern is vertical on the fabric and you want it vertical on your leggings, then ordering the extra yardage will give you longer vertical lines to fit your longer legs. And if the fabric is a 4-way stretch, it means it stretches in both directions, so it should be just fine for leggings. Why do you think there won’t be any stretch or that the pattern will go the wrong way. Can you explain more?
I’m not even sure myself, I’m totally confused
It’s hard to advise over comments, but generally I would say if the fabric is 4-way stretch, you don’t have to worry that it won’t stretch in the right direction for your leggings. And if the fabric has a vertical stripe going down it, and you want that stripe running down the leggings vertically, then ordering enough fabric for the length of the leggings plus a little extra for seam allowances should take care of it.
Hi Debi, I was so excited to try your leggings pattern and much to my dismay, my trip to Joann fabrics was fruitless. They had not one bolt of fabric suitable for leggings and they are the only store in town. I was bummed but i ended up buying a pair of knit pants with lycra at a chain store for $9 that i will attempt to refashion into leggings using your measurement guide. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your website. I love getting your e mails each week and you are an inspiration.
It’s frustrating when you can’t find the fabric you need. I know, I only have a few to choose from too. But refashioning works too.
So I started making leggings using this tutorial months ago and then I realized something! I could make workout shorts using the same pattern! This is one of the best sewing tutorials EVER! Thanks so much again! 🙂
Absolutely Lynne. It’s a good reminder because I always intended to do so and then never did. I think I’d like some just under knee length for yoga.
My length is 39 “/99.1 cm. But when I draw the pattern, the total length is 56.I added C, E, H and K and get 56” Does that sound right? Thanks in advance
No that is certainly not right. The length of the leggings should be set in Step 1 when you draw the line top to bottom length A.
C is knee to ankle, E is from the knee to the thigh, H is front rise and K is back rise. Adding those all together will give you far too much length and a very strange shaped pattern. If you follow the instructions as written, then it should work out correctly. There is no need to improvise at the pattern drawing point. You may make small adjustments at the testing point in fabric if needed.
Found my mistake. Thanks. Love your webiste.
Hi Deby, your patterns and tutorials help me to learn a friend how to sew, without breaking the bank on a starter-set of patterns. We’re very glad with this leggings pattern.