I'm embarking upon an epic fitting exercise and learning to sew the perfect fit this year, following along with the Craftsy course of the same name and the lovely instructor Lynda Maynard. You can read Part 1 of the series at 2013 is the year of Sew the Perfect Fit and Part 2 at Muslin Bodice Adjustment. Today, more on making a muslin and transferring the bodice adjustments onto the paper pattern.
In the last post I had completed and pinned the adjustments I wanted to my original muslin which had been made up straight from the pattern. Here was the result after much slashing and pinning.
Added length to both the front and back bodice. Marked to lower bust darts on pattern and next trial bodice. Opened from waist to side dart and increased at waist, tapering to nothing at bust.
Added additional length to back bodice to align waist seam with natural waistline. Slashed from waist to shoulder and widened primarily at waistline, tapering to nothing at shoulders.
So then it was time to transfer the adjustments made to the pattern pieces. I used my favorite method for tracing patterns, and transferred all pattern marking including seam and stitching lines to medical paper which is much stronger than regular pattern tissue.
I had expected it to be a little confusing to transfer adjustments made in 3d on the body, into flat adjustments on the pattern pieces. But with Lynda's excellent instructions it was actually easy! I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I was able to alter the pattern and how accurately, based on the muslin adjustments. Lynda runs your through step by step how to transfer each type of adjustment based on her three different fitting models.
I quickly ran up a new muslin (in a more concealing darker fabric) to check the fit. I made another few small adjustments, making a change to the shoulder and also letting out the side seams just a little. Although this might be reversed when I fit the final dress. It's just a bit of ‘fitting insurance'. And here is the revised muslin based on the pattern alterations.
I don't think any expert in sewing would call this a perfect fit just yet, but I am delighted with it. Compared to what I started with, and how much trouble I always have fitting patterns, this is a revelation! There's a little bit of loose fabric just yet. but I'm sure once attached to the skirt, this will hang much better.
Talking of the skirt – I'm not looking forward to that part coming up next. It's not going to be easy getting my bum into a skirt muslin I know is probably 3 sizes too small. But Lynda will see me through it!
Disclosure – I bought the course myself and am not being compensated in any way from Craftsy for this course review. I really love the Craftsy classes and negotiated this special rate for your benefit. I am an affiliate so will receive a commission if you buy this course using my special discount link.
Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy