The Summer Drape Top hits the web…

I am delighted today to share a version of the Summer Drape Top from Hannah at Hugs and Kisses.  Hannah was quick off the mark and this is the first one I’ve seen published.

Summer Drape Top by Hugs and Kisses

 

Love that pretty butterfly fabric and I’m so glad she gave it a try despite being a little reluctant to use knit fabrics.  Thank you so much for the positive review and for posting your creation online – its a great success.

Summer Drape Top review

Not only is it really easy and very enjoyable to sew up, but it is also SUPER cute and makes the perfect top for wearing with summery shorts. I certainly have plans to make this up a few more times.

Hannah sews some really great dresses and I love her style, do check out her creations page if you have a minute.

And if you have an hour, download and sew the Summer Drape Top – it could become a favorite for this year.

Summer Drape Top. Free sewing pattern and step by step photo tutorial from So Sew Easy.

Free sewing pattern – Summer Drape Top

The latest release in my range of free sewing patterns and tutorials – the Summer Drape Top.

 

Summer Drape Top.  Free sewing pattern and step by step photo tutorial from So Sew Easy.

Designed for softly draping knit fabrics, this blouse is easy to make, flattering, cool and strappy, with tummy covering draping and a rounded hemline in the front.  And I’ve made it with wide enough straps that you should be able to wear a bra with only minimal straps peaking through at the back.  Or don’t wear a bra and let it all hang out this summer!

The Summer Drape Top comes in a one-size fits most design.  The pattern is free to download and can be made from less than one yard of fabric.  Great for a beach cover up too, over a bikini top.

This is a long post including lots of photos, all about how to print and piece your digital pattern, cut your fabric and a full step by step photo tutorial on how to stitch your top.

(more…)

What the hell is THIS ? (Burda 113 06/2012)

I was naughty and it was therefore my own fault that I got caught.  There is no one else to blame but me and karma came my way and kicked me in the ass.  I stole.  Plain and simple.  And I won’t do it again – promise.

Burda criminal

Caught stealing sewing patterns

It’s just that I wanted to sew a nice dress, and I didn’t have the right pattern.  Burda magazine isn’t available here (although I have now signed up for an international subscription), and my fabric shop doesn’t sell patterns apart from a few things for kids.  And I had this fabric just calling out to be made into a dress.  All these are excuses of course – I still stole.  :-(

Photos of this dress and line drawings from the pattern, courtesy of Burda Style

While doing a search for a Burda magazine subscription to send from overseas, I actually came across a place where I could download a PDF of previous Burda magazines AND the patterns that came with them.  It was wrong of me I know, but I saw this dress and I had to HAVE IT.

 

These pictures don’t look so great – but in the magazine -6/2012 there is a fabulous photo of the model coming down some stairs with this dress on, and it just looks so flattering, drapes so nicely.  It had to be mine.

 

Burda dress pattern

So I printed out the PDF of the (stolen) pattern sheets and cut out the pattern pieces according to my sizing being very careful with all of those competing lines.  And I cut the fabric and sewed.  Of course it was awful from the start.  The dress is supposed to fit around the body under the bust with a zipper at the middle back.  So if I made up the right size, why was it 4 inches too big there?  Same old story every single time with commercial patterns – they are always HUGE.  I still don’t get it.

So I adjusted the back and the sides and got an approximate enough fit around the body.  Although the zip is crappy and I planned to redo this later.  But then came the right mess up – the bust pieces are self lined and once attached at the front (in a VERY deep V neck), they are supposed to go over the shoulders and meet the back of the dress and be gathered in there – see pattern illustration above.

Burda dress pattern

Unflattering flat and saggy chest – no thanks, I’ll skip it

Except mine didn’t reach.  Not by an inch or two, but by 6 inches or more too short.  What the hell?  Is my bustline so much lower than the average person?  This is a Burda pattern for their Tall range so there should have been plenty of length.

And I didn’t have any fabric left over to either cut new straps or put on some kind of extension.  They did however just meet behind my neck so I had to reluctantly make this into a halter dress. The pattern is the same as the one on the Burda site for the longer version with the halter neck here.

In the blue dress above where the bust pieces go up and over the shoulders to form ‘sleeves’ they sit nice and flat against the chest and are angled more up and outwards.  But if instead they are then pulled into the middle to tie behind the beck, they don’t sit nicely at all.  As you can see the halter neckline version is all gapey and very revealing at the front.  And so was mine – downright nasty.

I hate to have an unfinished project, so I finished off with a modesty panel in the front and a couple of little tubes on each side above the bust to gather in the fabric into the halter straps.  But the bust pieces are just all wrong for me, they are so flat and shapeless, and I look all saggy and flat chested.  Overall the dress is very bad and will NEVER be worn other than for these photos.  I’m even pretty reluctant to show them here because they make me look so odd.  It’s already been screwed up and thrown in the scraps pile.

So I wasted a very nice piece of fabric and hours of my time and got all frustrated for nothing to show for it.  As I said – Karma.

Burda 113 06/2012

My continuing challenges with getting commercial patterns to fit me has just about driven me to fabric violence.  Even if I make up a test piece before sewing, and find that it doesn’t fit, I often have no idea what alterations are needed in order to get a good fit, especially with everything I make generally starting off huge – do I need to re-cut the entire lot in a different size or can I just ‘take it in’ and adjust?  How can I pick a good size to begin with so that I need less alterations – I follow the sizing on the pattern envelope and clearly its not working for me!

Big 4 pattern companies - you promised it would fit me.  What do you have to say now !

Big 4 pattern companies – you promised it would fit me. What do you have to say now !

I thought about the last time I had a real challenge when sewing – the cowl neck dress.  It finished off very nicely, but the fabric was a nightmare to sew with – so I signed up for more sewing training and took the Sewing With Knits course from Craftsy.  I’ve still to actually finish some of the course projects from the free patterns included, but I learned so much that all of my knit fabric sewing projects have been a great success since.

Craftsy - Sew the Perfect Fit class

It’s about time that I learned how to fit clothes properly and how to make the correct alterations – it’s going to save me a LOT of frustration, and also will save me a lot of wasted time and wasted fabric.  So I decided Craftsy can help me again and they just have so many great classes to chose from, but one seemed to fit the problem perfectly:  Sew the Perfect Fit.

I am really excited by the class description and content:

Learn how to alter your patterns to achieve a flattering fit for your body. Fit specialist Lynda Maynard teaches fitting techniques you can use to customize any pattern to your shape.

“Let’s be honest: Sewing patterns rarely fit perfectly right out of the envelope. Real people don’t match the mannequins for which garments are tailored. Luckily, sewing instructor Lynda Maynard teaches techniques you can use to determine fitting issues and adjust a muslin directly on the body. Learn how to use grain lines to make proper alterations, and how to reflect those changes on the Vogue pattern included FREE with this class. Set yourself up with a wardrobe that fits and flatters your own shape, so you’ll always look and feel fabulous!

What You’ll Learn

  • Determining proper fit
  • Constructing and preparing a muslin
  • Spotting common fitting issues
  • Adjusting a muslin directly on the body
  • Transferring your adjustments to the pattern
  • Truing for perfect pattern and grain lines “

 

I’ve got quite a few projects in mind at the moment, and have started some and failed spectacularly, so this is just in time.  My blogging has dropped off a little as I don’t have much to show for my sewing time recently.  But if I can find the time to watch these classes, I KNOW that my next projects will perhaps take me longer to work on, but in the end will fit me properly and be something I can be proud of!

 

Online Sewing Class

Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy

Such a Saucy Pencil Skirt !

Sometimes a piece of fabric just calls out to be made into a certain garment.  And at the sewing shop this week, I came across a roll I hadn’t seen before.  There wasn’t much left on it, but the fabric was so unusual, and so perfect for what I had in mind, that the whole length came home with me.

So Sew Easy - Such a Saucy Skirt

I have really been so delighted with my progress on the Sewing with Knits course, that I am skipping out from the scheduled projects to try a few more knit projects of my own, now at last I know how to handle these more difficult fabrics.  And this one is no exception.  Its very soft and stretchy, but also has different panels within the same fabric, and sheer areas too.  It’s perfect for a very saucy pencil skirt!

 

So Sew Easy - Such a Saucy Skirt

This skirt is lined with a black thin Lycra panel at the top for modesty, down to mid-thigh and then the different panels of the fabric create a saucy silhouette   I read somewhere that when designing clothing think sheer/shiny, tight and short.  Each garment should have no more than one of these features.  As the fabric has some sheer panels, I chose not to make this skirt too tight (like the 30 Minute Easy Skirt I blogged about last week) or short, and instead kept it hanging straight from the hips and a classic pencil skirt knee length.  I used exactly the same method as the easy skirt, but made the fit looser and included elastic rather than the separate fabric waistband.

The stripes come along the selvedge of the fabric and the bottom didn’t need any finishing so the skirt was virtually ready made apart from sewing it into a simple tube.

 

So Sew Easy - Such a Saucy Skirt

 

There is a simple wide elastic waist secured neatly between the inner and outer fabric at the top but its worn on the low waist and there isn’t too much difference in circumference so it doesn’t appear gathered when worn for a sleek look under shirts and tops.

Here is a closeup of the top part of the fabric.  Obviously it’s black so its hard to show the detail.  The top part has vertical stripes, then there is a mesh area, followed by the horizontal stripes at the bottom.

 

So Sew Easy - Such a Saucy Skirt

 

I just LOVE this skirt.  Comfy to wear, simply slide it on, center the single seam at the back and good to go.  And it really is so unusual that everyone comments on it and it’s nice to be noticed!

 

So Sew Easy - Such a Saucy Skirt

 

I do have some of this fabric left over if anyone would like it to make a really eye-catching skirt of their own.  The first piece measures approx 21 inches deep by 42 inches wide – enough to wrap around to make a single tube skirt like mine above.  The bigger piece is full width at 44 inches by 32 inches with the border along both of the 32 inch sides.  So grab this fabric and make a couple of skirts, a knit top with a border – or even a dress!  I think it would look great made into a fitted dress with the striped part around the bottom – and then around the neckline or even the middle!  This cowl knit dress would look stunning!  For sale including shipping to the USA for $12.  Drop a comment if you would like it and I’ll email you back to arrange.

Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy

My DIY Duct Tape Dress Form

Make your own dress form body double using duct tape, newspaper and expanding foam.  Step by step photo tutorial.  So Sew Easy.How to make a Duct Tape Dress Form – and how NOT to !

How to make a duct tape dress form - a perfect replica of you body shape.  So Sew Easy

You might have seen these before. At some point or another, all sewers need to fit clothes so that they look flattering and are comfortable. But if there is just you, fitting and pinning alterations on yourself while you are wearing what needs adjustment is just plain difficult and sometimes near impossible.  This is why all keen sewers love a dress-form – a mannequin with their own measurements (as near as possible) so that the clothes can be made on the model and fitted to the person who will be wearing them.

Sadly my budget does not extend to importing a dress-form so I decided to try to make my own body double using duct tape, newspaper and expanding foam.

 

How to make a duct tape dress form.

(Excuse the photos, they were only ever intended for personal use but this was so much fun I had to share!)

Here is how it started out.  I first wore an old close-fitting t-shirt that I didn’t mind cutting up.  I extended at the bottom with a wrap of extra fabric around my hips and held it in place with some tape.  I tied my hair up out of the way.  Then we were ready to begin.

Duct tape dress form - the preparation

You will need a helper.  Someone with whom you are quite close as this can be a very personal experience involving a lot of patting and smoothing of your personal areas!  Start by applying the tape under the bust and in a cross-your-heart through the center to give individual definition rather than end up with a single uni-boob!

Duct tape dress form - give the upper body shape and definition.  So Sew Easy

 

Now start to fill in.  We decided to keep me cool and breathing easy in the Caribbean weather, we would start on the lower half first.  Using long strips of duct tape, overlap them concentrating on one area at a time, placing the tape horizontally and smoothing in place without pulling tight and distorting the body shape.

Duct tape dress form - place duct tape in long strips.  So Sew Easy

Remember that this is supposed to be a duplicate of your own body, flaws and all.  So don’t pull tight around the waist or flatten your tummy to make it look better as tempting as that might be!  Keep going with the tape in long pieces, front, sides and back.  Continue down past the widest part of your hips, bottom and thighs so you can use it for fitting skirts and dresses too.  End at the bottom with a line of tape as near horizontal as possible.

Duct tape dress form - continue adding tape past the widest part of the body.  So Sew Easy

All done at the bottom?  Let’s start adding tape to the top section.  Here shorter strips will be needed and will run in a more diagonal direction for a smoother finish rather than simple straight across.  I had a v-neck t-shirt so added a piece of fabric around the neck and across the V so the tape didn’t stick to my skin.

Duct tape dress form - starting to feel rather hot now.  So Sew Easy

At this stage you might start to feel rather self-conscious as well as warm and constricted, and be keen to get this thing off you.  But your helper has invested a good deal of time in patting and smoothing your tape and getting their fingers all sticky.  So give them 5 minutes to enjoy laughing at you and taking silly photos while you melt in the very hot sunshine.  It’s only fair.

Duct tape dress form - its getting pretty hot in here!  So Sew Easy

Now cut down the center back and through the back of the sleeves and remove.  Go take a nice cool shower!  Phew.  Connect the cut edges of the hollow form without overlapping and tape them back together again.  Cut some cardboard to top off the neck hole and the arm holes and tape these in place.

Then scrunch up lots of sheets of newspaper and start to stuff your body firmly but without distorting or stretching if you can.  Make sure to keep turning it as you stuff to try to avoid too many voids and loose areas.  Once its pretty well stuffed with the scrunched up newspaper, fill in the bottom with cardboard and tape in place.  It will probably look something like this – still a little soft and baggy in places.

Duct tape dress form - first fill completed. Still needs more filling out.  So Sew Easy.

Spotted that can of expanding foam bottom left?  This is where the magic comes in.  Or in my case, the disaster!  Using a very sharp knife cut small holes in the tape at the places where there are voids in the stuffing, typically the bust, bottom, tummy etc. Insert the nozzle and squeeze in a little foam.  Notice I say a little!  I underestimated how much this stuff expands and I filled in all of the voids at this stage until it was smooth and perfectly finished.  Add a little tape over the cuts you just made.

At this point I thought myself finished, measured my body form and was delighted to see that it was almost spot on to a fraction of an inch, to my own body measurements.   It looked so good, was light and easy to move about, and I was delighted with the finished result.Duct tape dress form - the finished body double.  So Sew Easy

All that remained was to get my husband to make a basic stand, stick it on and it was done.  Or so I thought.

But in the morning, I was greeted by a monster!  The expanding foam had continued to slowly expand little by little overnight and because the form was already full, it had no where to go except to stretch and pull and stretch some more.  I was not really enormous, but my body double was no longer my double, but some deformed monstrosity of lumps and bumps.

The foam was hard so there was nothing to be done to save it – we dressed it up in some old clothes and left it out the front of the house with the dustbins (trashcans if you are US). It was there a couple of days and must have given the passing tourists quite a shock!

So, can this be done?  Absolutely.  It was going perfectly well until I got overzealous with the expanding foam.  If you want to make one of these, be sparing with the foam, leave it some hours to expand – you can always add a little more later, but you cannot remove your ugly lumps and bumps if it expands too far.

I do recommend this project – it really was a lot of fun?  Anyone else out there had a go at making their own duct tape dress form?

Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy

Free Skirt Sewing Patterns – over 100

Introducing an EPIC list of free skirt sewing patterns.

Over 100 Free Skirt Sewing Patterns.  All styles.  Easy to use clickable photo gallery takes you straight to the source.  So Sew Easy.

I KNOW you all love free patterns – its the most searched for area of my site.  And you LOVE the Pinterest Group Board where you all share your favorite free sewing patterns.  And the Free Dress Patterns List was the biggest traffic generator on the site for weeks after it was published.

So, here you have it.  The BIG List of free skirt sewing patterns for every type and style of skirt you can imagine.  Over 100 at the time of publishing and growing as I find more great patterns to include.

 

Over 100 Free Skirt Sewing Patterns

Previous

Don’t forget to check out these other popular posts on this site:

So Sew Easy: A Gazillion FREE Sewing PatternsSo Sew Easy: Directory of Online Fabric ShopsSo Sew Easy - huge list of free dress patterns with photos and links

If you find any great free skirt patterns that I’ve missed, why not add them to the Group Board on Pinterest?

And I would love to see more of your own sewing success.  Have you tried one of these patterns?  Was it easy to follow?  Did you love the end result or did it not turn out quite as expected?  If you have completed a project using any of the pattern links above, and posted about it on your site, do drop a link in the comments below so we can all take a look.

This post is

sponsored-by-th



Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy