Sewing Glossary Of Terms – An Illustrated Guide

sewing dictionary

I thought a little later into the New Year might be the perfect time to do a quick recap on some sewing terms in case there are any new readers out there or anyone who is looking to start sewing in 2023.  Each craft or profession has their own acronyms and terms which can be a mystery to those starting out, so here is the So Sew Easy Sewing Glossary or Sewing Dictionary.

It's by no means comprehensive!  But I think these are the important terms that someone starting out in sewing might need to know.  I also have a lot of readers from countries where English is not the first language so this might be useful for you too. Let's make this a collaborative project – if you have any terms you think should be included, leave a note in the comments and I'll add them into the list.

You might also find the Sewing Tutorials page useful, we're trying to make the best collection of sewing tutorials out there!

The So Sew Easy Sewing Glossary

This is our glossary of sewing terms or type of sewing dictionary, however you want to call it. As our tutorials and articles expand we will continue to add to this list, so make sure to bookmark it to keep up to date.

A-line

A silhouette resembling the letter A, where the garment flares gently from the shoulders or waist, offering a flattering fit for most body shapes. Example of A-Line skirt.

Check out our most recent article on 7+ Free A-line skirt patterns.

Applique

A decorative technique where smaller pieces of fabric are sewn onto a larger piece, creating patterns or designs. Example of applique.

sewing terms

Armscye

The opening in a garment for the arm, also known as the armhole, where the sleeve or facing is attached.

Backstitching

Also known as back-tacking. A secure method of sewing at the beginning and end of a seam, involving reverse stitching to prevent unraveling.

sewing terms

Basting

Temporary, loose stitches that hold fabric pieces together before final sewing, easily removed afterward.

sewing terms

Bias 

A diagonal angle of fabric, typically 45 degrees, which provides stretch and flexibility in garments.

Bias Binding / Tape

A thin strip of fabric, cut on the bias, used to finish raw edges or create decorative trims.

sewing terms

Bobbin

A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine, creating the bottom half of a stitch.

sewing terms

Bolt

A large roll of fabric, typically sold in yards or meters, from which smaller fabric pieces are cut.  Usually on a roll or folded over a cardboard inner, and marked with useful information such as fabric content and care instructions.

sewing terms

Buttonhole

A reinforced slit in fabric that is closely bound with small stitching, just large enough to allow the button to pass through.

sewing terms

Casing

A fabric tunnel sewn to hold elastic, drawstrings, or other supportive elements in a garment. A casing may also be formed between a garment and its lining.

Couture

High-end, custom-made clothing, often hand-sewn with attention to detail and fit.

sewing glossary

Dart

A fold in the fabric, usually wide at one end narrowing to a point, which helps the fit of a garment over the curves and shapes of the body. Often a triangular fold of fabric sewn into a garment to create shaping and contouring. Marking darts perfectly.  Sewing darts perfectly.

Ease

The allowance of space in a pattern for fit, comfort and styling, over and above exact body measurements.  All about ease. Can also mean the process of gently distributing fabric to fit into a smaller space, like a sleeve cap into an armscye.

sewing glossary

Empire

A style featuring a raised waistline, typically just below the bust, that falls into a loose-fitting skirt.

sewing glossary

Facing

A fabric piece sewn to the garment's edge, providing a clean finish, reinforcement, or shape retention. Typically used at necklines and armholes.

sewing glossary

Fat quarter

A quarter-yard piece of fabric, typically 18×22 inches, popular in quilting and small projects.

Finger press

A technique of pressing fabric with fingers to create a temporary crease or fold, without using an iron.

sewing glossary

Gather

A technique of evenly bunching fabric to create fullness, typically by sewing a loose, straight stitch and pulling the thread. See the Gathered Front top.

sewing glossary

Grain

The direction of fabric threads, either lengthwise (warp) or crosswise (weft), important for accurate cutting and sewing.

sewing dictionary

Hem

The finished edge of a garment, created by folding and sewing the fabric's raw edge.

Hong Kong finish

A seam finish using bias tape to encase raw edges, often seen in unlined garments for a clean look.

sewing dictionary

Inseam

The inner seam of a pant leg, running from the crotch to the hem.

Interfacing 

A supportive material, either sewn-in or fused, that adds structure and stability to fabric. Sometimes used on garment facings, and especially in bags.

sewing dictionary

Invisible Hem (also called a Blind Hem)

A discreetly sewn hem, hiding stitches from the garment's right side.  Sewn using a special presser foot (left). Invisible Hem tutorial.

Invisible Zipper 

A type of zipper sewn into a seam, hidden when closed, except for the zipper pull.  Often used in the back of skirts and dresses where pattern matching at the seam helps make the zipper invisible.  Video tutorial and photo tutorial.

sewing dictionary

Lining

An inner layer of fabric sewn to a garment, providing a clean finish, added comfort, and protection. A lining is cut of the same pattern pieces as the garment and often is made of “slippery” fabrics.  Lining a skirt part 1 and part 2.

Muslin / toile

A test garment made from inexpensive fabric, used to perfect fit and design before sewing the final piece.  Terminology differs in US to other parts of the world where toile may also be used.  Making a bodice muslin.  Making a skirt muslin.

sewing dictionary

Notions

Small sewing accessories such as buttons, zippers, and thread used in garment construction.  Essential sewing tools.

Press

Using an iron with an up and down motion to press fabric flat rather than a back and forward ironing motion.  Pressing is completed on seams during garment construction – see Pressing Really Matters.

sewing dictionary

Presser foot

The part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the feed dogs.  Presser feet are usually removable and can be replaced by all types of specialty feet for sewing specific projects or stitches.

Pre-washing

Washing, drying and ironing of fabric prior to using it in sewing projects. Allows for any shrinkage prior to sewing so the finished garment will fit correctly.  Read more in Choosing and Preparing Fabric.

sewing dictionary

Princess seam

A long, curved seam that follows the body's contours, offering a flattering fit without the need for darts.

sewing dictionary

Right side/wrong side 

The right side refers to the fabric's visible, finished side, while the wrong side is the fabric's back, typically less polished.

sewing terms

Seam allowance 

The distance between the fabric edge and the seam line, dictating how much fabric is needed for proper construction. The standard seam allowance on most commercial patterns is 5/8th of an inch or 1.5 cm.

Selvage

The tightly woven edge of fabric, running parallel to the grain, which prevents fraying. Finer fabrics usually have the manufacturer name and design printed here.

Sewing pattern

A template, typically printed on paper, that guides the cutting and construction of a garment or project.  Usually includes several different sizes or styling options along with instructions on how to construct the project or garment.  Understanding a sewing pattern envelope.

sewing terms

Sloper 

A basic, fitted garment pattern used as a starting point for creating custom designs and variations.  The custom sloper is made to your personal measurements and can be used to create very well fitting garments.  See the custom pencil skirt sloper tutorial.

Staystitching 

Line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line on curved edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distorting. The direction of the stay stitching is shown on the pattern. If not, it generally goes from shoulder to center on necklines.

Tailors Ham

A round ‘ham' shaped firmly stuffed pillow used under a garment while pressing to help mold fabric into shape around curves for darts, princess seams etc.

sewing terms

Tension

Refers to the pressure being placed on your needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are two types of tension on your sewing machine – the thread and bobbin tensions. You rarely need to adjust bobbin tension. Your sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer you examples of what the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your stitching.

Top stitch

A line of stitching parallel to a seam or edge, sewn from the right side.  Can be part of the garment construction or simply decorative.

sewing terms

Tracing paper/tracing wheel

Used together to transfer pattern lines and marking to fabric or to duplicate and trace patterns.  Wheel resembles a tiny pizza cutter with spikes. Tracing Burda Patterns the Easy Way

Underlining 

Fabric lining joined in the seams of the garment rather than hanging loosely.  Used to give shape, body or support to delicate fabrics.

Understitching 

Assists a facing or lining to stay to the inside and un-seen. It is stitching that is sewn as close to the seam line as possible holding the graded seam allowance to the facing or lining.

Walking foot

A special presser foot which includes feed dogs to assist in moving the upper layer of fabric through the machine.  Sometimes used in projects with multiple layers of fabric to ensure upper layers move through at the same rate as the lower layer pulled by the machine feed dogs.

Zipper foot

A sewing machine attachment that is designed for installing zippers; the design of the foot allows the needle to stitch close different items such as zippers and cording. All about zipper feet.

sewing terms

Zipper

Closure with interlocking teeth. Comes in several forms, colors and lengths.  Usually requires a special presser foot for accurate insertion.


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New to sewing? Here's what you should know!

[…] you can understand sewing machine specs and instructions. If you have a photographic memory, then use this illustrated list of sewing terms. […]

Janice Corley
Janice Corley

What is a type of sleeve called that flares toward the wrist, and then is gathered into a band ?
the word has 6 letters in it.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  Janice Corley

That’s called a Bishop sleeve. We should do a sewing crossword between us!

Marti @ SewliciousHomeDecor

Thank you for these tips!! So glad to have you link up at Sewlicious Home Decor! Marti

Jill (mamaging.com)

Thanks for sharing! I am also a recent, self taught sewer and this is great. Found you at Sprinkles Party Linky Party at Buttercream Bakehouse!

The DIY Homegirl

Great round-up of terms! Thanks for sharing.

ToriLynn
ToriLynn

This is a great basic list. I have been sewing for over 40 years and until the last few years, had no idea what a sloper was!

Shannon @ Of The Hearth

This is super helpful! My sewing skills are pretty basic, but I’m trying to learn more. This clarifies a lot of the terms.

Jessi @ Practically Functional
Jessi @ Practically Functional

Wow, this is super awesome and totally helpful! Definitely pinning it, and thanks for sharing at Creativity Unleashed!

chrissy
chrissy

i too am self taught and always wondered about invisible hems. now i know i need a special foot. off to research them now thanks for linking up to the all things pretty party.

Kristin

As a self-taught sewer (and still learning), this is just what I need! Thank you so much for posting this and sharing it at the Foodies and Crafties Soiree!

Becky

Love this! Thanks for putting it together. Great resource.

Melody
Melody

Thank you for sharing. I am not a newbie I have been sewing for 15+ years, but I could always use a refresher on things.

Jessica
Jessica

Hi Deby,
First of all Happy New Year! I wish you and your loved ones all the best for 2014.

Perfect, this might be very useful for future projects, although I am no longer a newby 😉 If I will find any missing words I will come back to you.
Thanks for sharing and your effort behind it.
Greetings from the “unusual springtime” Germany,
Jessica

Midsommarflicka

Oh, this is a great list!
Thanks! 🙂

Love, Midsommarflicka

mactil johnson
mactil johnson

I sew and my dauther is going to have a baby and I would like to saw it a blank would you send me a free pattern thank you.

Deby at So Sew Easy
Active Member
Reply to  mactil johnson

Hello Mactil and congratulations on your grandchild. I’m sorry that I don’t have any blanket patterns I can send you. I don’t have any children and it’s not something I have ever made. May I suggest you take a look at the free sewing patterns board I have on Pinterest – there are over 1400 patterns there and I’m sure you will find what you need. Good luck with your sewing.