The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

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Step One: Attaching the sleeves to the back and front of the hoodie

The sleeves are in the raglan style, which means the sleeves will start at the neckline.  They will cover the entire shoulder and end up before the wrist bone.  At first, the sleeves may seem short but remember we will be adding a ribbing at the wrist.

For purposes of this tutorial, I have chosen a fabric that is easy to see the right and wrong sides.  Please keep this in mind when you are making your own hoodie especially when making the hood and the pockets.

hoodie pattern

We will start sewing the dart on the sleeve.

Right sides together, pin the darts.  Sew the dart on the sleeve at 3/8″.  When you reach the end of the dart, extend (taper) your seam 3/4″ or 2 cm to avoid a bubble forming at the shoulder. 

Place the back piece right side down on your table.  The crease you see is the fold of the fabric.  Pin the backside of the sleeve. To make your life easier, lift the back piece slightly and slide the sleeve under.  You may notice that I have forgotten a notch on the sleeve to show you the front and back.  On your sleeve, the higher side is the back.

It is time to attach the front side.  You will pin the front to the front side of the sleeve. Sew at 3/8″.   We will be closing the sleeves and the sides of the hoodie, so pin from the wrists to the hem of the hoodie and sew at 3/8″.

I will be showing you a way to sew the facing and the zipper jacket at the same time but, before that, we need to have the hood ready.

Step Two: Sewing the hood

Right sides together, sew at 3/8″ and iron the seam allowance to one side. Topstitch using a stretch stitch if your machine has one or a very narrow zigzag. Repeat on the contrasting fabric. I am using a red cotton Jersey knit.

Using your pattern, mark the placement of the grommets.  You will only need to add the grommet to the outside fabric.  Because we are using knit, you will find that the hole does not need to be too large. Mine is 5mm wide.

Attach the grommet following the instructions from the package.  If you are using a Kam tool like mine, place the male or eyelet part of the grommet first. Place the fabric print/right side down.  Then the washer and press. Repeat on the other side. 

It is time to join the two layers of the hood.  Right sides facing each other, pin around the face.

Sew at 3/8″.  I have changed my bobbin thread to match the white fabric.  If you are using contrasting fabric make sure you do the same to match each side of the hood.

Turn the hood inside out.  Change your foot to a zipper foot to be able to sew next to the grommet.  We are going to make the channel for the cord.  Sew 1″ from the edge. 

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Nancy W
Nancy W

I have a question. Would I be able to adapt a ‘Mandarin’ collar on the garment if I chose to make another one without the hood?

Nancy W
Nancy W

I printed the pattern this morning. It looks fantastic. I especially like the raglan sleeves with the dart at the shoulder top. I have fairly broad shoulders but not large shoulder bones. This type of sleeve always fits so much better. I can’t wait to put the pieces together and get started.
I am glad I have read the comments. I will be sure to add seam allowance to my pattern size.
I am grateful for the opportunity to use another of your patterns.
Your photo instructions are very helpful.
Thank you so much for this lovely pattern.

Bett
Bett

Hi, and thanks for the pattern!
I have just a quick question, about how to draw and cut the facing and wrist/waist ribbing not included in the pattern. I’m a little scared about doing these wrong.
Can someone tell me what bits of the pattern we’re meant to trace for the facing, what kind of facing we should optimally use, and the sizes to cut and what material to use for the ribbings?
Thank you so very much <3

Susan
Susan

Is there a link to download instructions for the hoodie pattern?

Me sew
Me sew

Add 3 3/4 to where? Your words day bottom but the picture is confusing. Please help

nigel simkin
nigel simkin

could this pattern possibly be used for a man as well?

Liz
Liz

I would like to use this pattern to make a hoodie, but instead of the suggested cotton linen & jersey knit fabric, I’d like to use a faux fur. Can you please tell me if I would still need a serger machine? Or could I accomplish the pattern using a regular sewing machine?

Me sew
Me sew
Reply to  Liz

It says it’s unisex

Bernie
Bernie

I just made this. I’m happy with it overall, but differed slightly in construction order: I did the pockets before the zipper, so that the edges were enclosed in the seams. The only issue I had was with the size!! My measurements are 36″ around bust. I wanted space in it, so I made the size to measure 42″. It turned out WAY smaller: finished size is only 32″!!!

Noémie
Noémie

This item is gorgeous ! Can you let me know where I can get the fabric ? I like the graphic pattern !!

Sherry
Sherry

I got this pattern to make for my 16 yr old granddaughter. Had to print patten twice to get scale correct. Cut out for a size 14, which is her size. NOT! It is so small it fits my 8 year old grandson. Good thing I made it out of turtle fleece. He loves it. SO pattern not for adults.

Angie
Angie
Reply to  Sherry

Hi Sherry,

I wonder if you possibly made the same mistake I nearly made, which was assuming a 5/8′ seam allowance was already built into the pattern – as it is with just about every other ‘commercial’ pattern. The section on ‘no seam allowance included’ can be easily missed if you start cutting, without reading – as I nearly did – the bit at the front before the sewing instructons. I only caught it as I compared the hood section in size to one I alreadly have, and wondered why there was no seam allowance past the grommet for the inner layer.

Mayra, also about the scaling I use adobe photoshop elements to print from as it is more easily adjusted (in 1% increments) if the 2″ square does not equate to exactly 2″. Be aware therefore, that not everybody is using the same printing options.

Jai
Jai

Hooded cardigan

Charlotte Hampe
Charlotte Hampe

Love it bit in Sweden se idé om in sted of inch somtime its hard to change it

Tina M Hobert
Tina M Hobert

Love this pattern. So many different combinations of color and fabric to consider!!
Although, I won’t be attempting this real soon, it’s definitely on my top list for the year. Need to get back into making garments with a few simpler patterns first.
One of the main reasons I used to make a lot of my clothes, is because of my size. I’ve always had a difficult time finding clothes “off the rack” that fit, so I either had to pay to have them altered or do it myself. That can add up quickly. I learned early on, it’s not only less expensive, but much more satisfying to know I’ve done it myself!
The only request I would like to suggest, is to see more patterns which include smaller sizes. I’m 5’3″, and 100-104 pounds. So a size 4 is best, and sometimes a 2, depending on the garment-2’s are next to impossible to find though.
Just something to keep in mind for the future, if you could?
I still do a lot in knitting, and in that particular maker’s community, there’s been a huge increase these past few years for size inclusivity. This should include from the smallest to the largest, in order to cover the greatest number. Would love to see this move forward in sewing as well.
Thank you for all your helpful tips and techniques, as well as the free patterns you so graciously provide. ????????????
(Apologies for the lengthy comment.)

Debbie
Debbie

Thank u for this perfect pattern. May I ask where the fabric is from? It’s perfect weight for So Florida.

Janie Smith
Janie Smith

Retired but love to sew

Meg
Meg

Great pattern – and fabulous fabric – where did you find that fabric?

Cindy N
Cindy N

I am loving this hoodie. Finally a hoodie that fits!! The raglan sleeve is just what my narrow shoulders needed, yet my bigger parts fit too. I plan to make more of these. The one small thing I might alter on the next one is to sew the pocket into the zipper and band seam instead of topstitching it all around. Excellent patter – thanks for making it available. I look forward to making more garments from your patterns.

Rae
Rae

Hi, I lovr this hootie!!! Where can I find that fabric????