Today I'll show you the easiest way to add butterfly sleeves to a top or dress. We all have one top or dress that we always wished had sleeves. In this tutorial I am using the Tina top I shared with you two weeks ago. I have to admit I prefer the top sleeveless but that is just me. If you read the comments below the majority of you wished the top had sleeves.
Normally flutter sleeves are seen on a V-neck or wide round necklines since the shape of the sleeves tends to make the upper chest area wider.
I am an hourglass (but lately hmmm… the hourglass is becoming rather a peanut in shell kind of shape…) wide shoulders and a bust that is the same width as my hips, the waist was 10″ smaller, now it is 7? Technically I am a square shape unless I lose a couple of inches of my waist. If I keep going I will end up as an apple. Having described my body, I can honestly tell you the sleeveless version of the top will look fine on me. The one with the flutter sleeves will not unless I defined my waist a little better without making the top tight around my waist. For that, I have a little secret I will share with you in another tutorial. I guess what I am trying to tell you is that there are ways to make things look better on you even if they do not have hanger appeal.
Having said all that, who can benefit from a flutter sleeves summer top? An inverted triangle would be at the top of the list because flutter sleeves will balance the silhouette in this type of body. If you would like to know how to find your body shape please follow the tutorial below. Anyone else will have to find the right length/fabric combination for their type of body. The rule is the thicker the fabric, the smaller the sleeves — but rules are to be broken and as long as you are happy and feel comfortable anything goes.
For this tutorial, I am using the summer blouse, Tina. As you can see, it is sleeveless and a few of you including my mother wished it has sleeves.
- Curve ruler or French ruler
- Straight ruler
- Pattern making paper (manila and dotted is best if you are a beginner)
- Tape measure
- 1/2″ yard of fabric
- Top or dress pattern
How To Draft Your Butterfly Sleeves Pattern
- Draw a line that will represent the length of the sleeve. From the shoulder to the hem of the sleeve.
- Draw a circle with the radius equal to the length of the sleeve plus the seam allowance( 1/4″)
- Divide the circle into four parts.
- Label the lines a and b.
- Measure the armhole less the seam allowance.
- Divide by 2π (2 X 3.14) to find the circumference of the circle. Example: Length of armhole Divided by 6.28 = circumference of the circle minus 3/8″. 19″/6.28″=3″ – 3/8″=2 5/8″
- Measure using a compass 2 5/8″
- Draw the circle starting at point a towards point b.
- Cut the circle away and you have a circle within a circle. This is your pattern. Cut the fabric following the grain line.
Make two notches. When sewing the sleeve, match these notches to the shoulder seam (wide part) and the side seam.
For Flowy Fabric In Solid Colors follow The Extra Steps Below
If you are using silk crepe, rayon or satin in solid colors you will notice the lower part of the sleeves showing under. If this is an issue for you. Take the following steps:
- Mark the middle of the circle.
- Fold the Upper part of the circle towards the center.
- Trace the fold line.4. And trace the center line.5. Finally, trace the circle that represents the circumference of the armhole, making sure the center of the circle is placed where the two lines cross.
Notice the difference in the placement of the armhole.
Math did not work out?
Don't worry, chances are you forgot to minus the 3/8″ at the end and your circle and the circle ended larger than you needed. What to do? Make a pleat or gather at the shoulder seam and no one will notice your mistake. This happens to the best of us, and like my designing teacher used to say, there are no mistakes in fashion, just change the drawing. Still, with or without gathers butterfly sleeves add a touch of feminity to any top and distract attention from the upper arm area while giving a bit of coverage.
Undersleeve showing and you do not like how it looks, but you have already cut the fabric? and don't have extra fabric?
Use pins to mark the amount you would like to take out from under the sleeves. Using your curve ruler trace the cutting line. Cut the fabric and use the strip of fabric to mark the other sleeve.
Hem the butterfly sleeves using any of the following techniques listed below.
We are on the way to Italy soon, to spend some time with my family, so I have to concentrate on my wardrobe. I will be sharing with you some new pieces specifically for a cruise or waterside-wear. There are a couple of dresses coming up that will use the butterfly sleeves, so keep this page bookmarked.
Next week I will be sharing an elegant top that can hide the tummy, that can be both casual or dressy depending on the fabric. Below is my muslin, I have draped on the mannequin ready to transfer to paper.
If you have an Instagram account and want to share with me your projects made with So-Sew-Easy patterns use #soseweasy or follow me atsoseweasy to have a peek at my not so perfect life, my disastrous work area after a project, some of my drawings and life in general.
Until next time, happy sewing!