How To Sew Piping To A Flap Or Collar

How To Sew Piping

This is the easiest way I know of how to sew piping to a flap or a collar.  You can use this technique to make an iconic Chanel-inspired jacket, a sophisticated set of silk pajamas, or even cushions.

When I was in design school, the thought of adding piping to a collar or to a pocket filled me with horror and I would often result in many sleepless nights trying to finish a garment.  That was until I found this much better way to do it and this is what I am going to share with you here today.

I've created a little practice tutorial below if you want to get comfortable with the technique.  Of course, if you're going to use the technique on a sewing project, you will need the corresponding materials.  The shortlist below is only if you want to try out the method and practice.

Materials

Making the flap and adding piping

Cut two sides for your flap.  Fuse the interfacing to one of the flap sides.  These particular measurements apply for bias tape piping at 3/8″ or 1/2″.  If you are making your own piping, to make your life easier, just draft the pattern for the flap with the seam allowance the same size as your piping.

Because we are adding piping, there is no need to make one side smaller than the other.  However, if your fabric has a pattern, large print, or stripes, match the stripes to the center of the pocket.  That is where the eye is drawn to.  It is important to strengthen the pocket so the lines, corners, or curves retain a crisp and smooth look.  This can be attained by using fusible or non-fusible interfacing.  If you are using a thin fabric like silk charmeuse, satin silk or similar, fusible interfacing is not advisable because it could change the appearance of the fabric.  Use an interfacing lighter that you normally would use for lapels and collars.

adding piping

adding piping

How To Sew Piping

Trace a 5/8″ seam allowance to guide you to where you need to place the piping.  Pin the piping to the right side of the flap and the cord side towards the center and the raw edge of the piping to the seam allowance. Attach the piping foot to the sewing machine.  Slide the piping under the smaller groove which is the one on the right and sew the piping.  With this foot, there is very little margin for error so make sure the tape does not move.

If you don't have a piping foot, you can use the zipper foot.  Just make sure the edge of the foot touches the piping.

Take the flap out and lay the other side of the flap right side down on top of the flap.  You have a sandwich now, with the piping in the middle of the flat and the fabric right sides are facing each other.

adding piping

Pin the flap all around and sew again.  This time follow the stitching line you have created.

adding piping

Trim the seam allowance to the edge of the bias tape piping.  If you are using a stiff fabric you might have to notch around the curve every 3/8 to 1/2″.

How To Sew Piping

Turn the flap inside out and iron it. You should have flawless piping around your flap.

Adding Piping to Lapels

adding piping

Use the same method to add piping around the collar and lapels.  Here are some samples on where to use this technique.

adding piping

So there you have it.  This technique allowed me to get some sleep when I was in design school and it also helped me make some darn nice-looking garments.  I hope you're able to use this method of adding piping to your projects.

It would be great if you could share some of your experiences below.


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Pam
Pam

Fabulous set of instructions with clear illustrations, can’t wait to try them out. Thank you!

Marilu
Marilu

Thank you VERY MUCH!!! it is a great explanation all made so easy now

Jan
Jan

Generally I get the idea which is drawing the sewing line, right? I’ll try that. I don’t understand what the fabric 1 yard of satin and 1/4 yard of cotton is for in the instructions.

MJ
MJ

Great teaching tool

Cec Parlee
Cec Parlee

Great Idea Cec Parlee

Sandy Otto
Sandy Otto

Very well explained! I love piping and often use it even if not actually part of the pattern, it just makes turning a collar so much easier.
Skills like making ones own piping, applying piping, elevate made at home to something special!

Mayra Cecilia
Admin
Noble Member
Reply to  Sandy Otto

Indeed Sandy, no one can really believe when you add piping that you made the garment. It does elevate your sewing to a professional level.

Jean Brechbuhl
Jean Brechbuhl

thank you. making it a lo easier.. not sewing at the moment.. broken sholder
in plaster. keeping all your info…… Jean

Tamie Hamilton-Lavoie

“with the piping is in the middle”
You might want to delete “is”

Andrea Ary
Andrea Ary

You are right! This is the easiest way to add piping. I love the little detail it gives my sewing. I make my own piping, so it is either matching or contrasting my project. I used this method to add piping to a lined bolero jacket around all edges. I also used it on the front of a yoke on a little girls dress. It made the dress pop!

Jan
Jan
Reply to  Andrea Ary

Hi, Andrea, How do you make piping?