Double welt pocket with flap by the butterfly method

Step Five:  Joining the flap and butterfly together

Place your fashion fabric with the pocket opening right side up.  Slide the butterfly making sure the center of the butterfly is in the middle of the rectangle.  If you are not adding a flap to the pocket, is imperative you align everything as perfectly as possible.

TIP: To help you align the butterfly to the opening of the pocket, draw a line with an erasable ink pen 1/4″ from either side of the stitching line. 

I want to point out the catch-22 situation I am in.  This is one ugly pocket so far because I used black thread.  If I didn't use dark thread, you wouldn't be able to see the seams but if I do use contrasting thread, unfortunately I make an ugly pocket.  So I hope you forgive the lack of aesthetics;)
To make your life easier, baste around the pocket with a very large stitch.  All you are trying to prevent is the welt from moving around. Slide the flap through the pocket opening.  The flap will be sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the welts.  Pin and take it to the sewing machine.

Lift the flap and start sewing on the middle of the flap.  Once you get to the corner, pivot the work, fold the flap out of the way and count the stitches to the next corner.  In my case there were eight.

The key here is that you are doing 3 things are once:  sewing the welts, attaching the flap, and top-stitching around the pocket.  You need to use a stitch size that is not too small and not too big.  The best is around size 2.5.

Once you have finished, pulled the threads from the front to the back. 

Step Six:  Making the bag of the pocket

Fold the lining upwards and pin to the flap.  Sew around the bag of the pocket using your sewing machine then zigzag or use your serger.

Where to use the double welt pocket with flap

The pound pocket, double besom pocket, or double welt pocket with flap (or without a flap) is best used on leather, suede thick wool, and cashmere.  

Don't you want to sew clothes that look like this?  Stay tuned.  We will be making outfits that will be using this type of pocket.  I won't say much more now, but keep an eye out for some thick wool fabric and suede, or better, fur-lined suede fabric.  We will be making catwalk-worthy outerwear using those materials in the near future.

Until next time.  Happy Sewing!

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