The High-Low T-shirt is the perfect item to hide your panty line. Let's face it, girls, sometimes depending on the mood and “time of the month,” we feel like wearing an underwear that leaves us with the dreaded panty line. We're not always in the mood for a tiny g-string, a sports undergarment, or a sexy lacy number. There's nothing good about a panty line, but sometimes you just don't care.
I've recently taken up Pilates and I'm determined to tone my Gluteus maximus aka my butt. Not for the reasons you might think, but simply because this muscle helps us keep a straight posture. In other words, no more back pain. If that isn't reason enough, this is simply a great high-low t-shirt that is easily made and transformed into a great top.
With this top, the back is 4″ longer than the front. The ease of the high-low t-shirt is fairly minimal at the shoulders because it's A-line and semi-fitted above the bust point. It will be loose around the hips and closer to your body at the shoulders. Perfect for the ladies who want to hide some extra pounds around the waistline and are looking for an easy going, comfortable top to walk around in.
If used for Pilates or Yoga, this high-low t-shirt has a string at the bottom where you can tighten it so you will not have to worry about the t-shirt curling up your back when you bend over. But, of course, this feature is optional.
This pattern is suitable for two-way stretch knits or jersey knits only. I know what you are thinking, why is she using that fabric since this is supposed to be a t-shirt after all. Well, I just like to excercise in style..
If you do not have a serger and are using jersey knits, zigzag the seam allowances to prevent raveling. If using an ITY knit, there is no need for a serger since this type of fabric doesn't ravel.
Skills required to make this t-shirt
- This is an easy top to make, but if this is your first time working with knits do not attempt this top until you have read all the instructions thoroughly
- Good knowledge of your sewing machine
- Ability using a ball point needle or a walking foot
- Experience in cutting and sewing with knits
- Knowledge on assembling and printing a PDF pattern
- 1 1/4 to 2 yards of jersey knit or ITY knit, 60″ wide
- Jersey needle size 70
- Thread to match
- 1″ Stay tape or stretchable fusible interfacing
- Two grommets 5mm in diameter (optional)
- Grommet tool (optional)
- 2 to 2 1/2 yards of thin cord or ribbon (optional)
- French ruler (optional)
Recommended Fabrics from Fabric.com
To convert the measurements to centimeters accurately use this site.
|Size||Chest||Waist||Hem||Front Length||Back Length|
|Medium||38 1/2″||42 1/2″||56 1/2″||24 1/2″||28 1/2″|
|Large||42 1/2″||46 1/2″||60 1/2″||25 1/2″||29 1/2″|
|XL||46 1/2″||50 1/2″||64 1/2″||26 1/2″||30 1/2″|
|XXL||50 1/2″||54 1/2″||68 1/2″||27 1/2″||31 1/2″|
Print on landscape, in actual size and using the latest version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Step One: Cut the fabric
The amount of fabric required will vary a bit depending on the size you choose to make. So the best thing you can do is to print the size you need and work it out with the fabric you have in mind. Do take into consideration when buying online that you can usually only ask for a whole number amount. Few companies will sell you half yards especially when on sale. As always, I recommend you to look in your fabric stash for the appropriate fabric.
Cut front and back on the fold. Apply stay tape or stretchable fusible interfacing on the shoulders, neckline and at the hem.
Step Two: Sew the dart and shoulder seam.
Sew the darts. Try to finish the dart without creating a bubble at the end. If you need some help, here's a complete tutorial on How to Sew Darts.
Sew the shoulders and zigzag or use your serger.
Fitting tip: Taking in consideration that you will have a 3/8″ seam allowance, put on the top and check whether the neckline is too high. Increase or decrease using a French ruler according to your taste. Once you are happy, apply 1/2″ Stay Tape or stretchable fusible interfacing to the neckline.
Step Three: Drafting and sewing the neck facing
The neck facing is not included in the pattern. You will have to measure the neckline and cut a rectangle with that measurement by 1 1/2″. When sewing this neck facing to the neckline use a 1/2″ seam allowance. For the rest of the high-low t-shirt use a 3/8″ seam allowance and a 1/2″ hem.
Measure the neckline.
Cut a strip of fabric across the horizontal stretch of the fabric. Use this exact measurement to cut the facing. Right sides facing each other, sew the sides at 1/2″ to make a loop. Use small notches to divide the loop into four equal parts indicating the front, back
Working on the right side of the fabric, pin the seam of the band to one of the shoulder seams and match the other notches to the center front, center back and the other shoulder seam. Sew at 1/2″ seam allowance.
Pin and stretch between the four points.
Sew the facing at 3/8″. Iron.
Step Four: Sewing the sleeves and the sides
Match the notches on your sleeves.
One notch is the front of the sleeve. Two notches indicate the back of the sleeve.
Sew the sleeves using a 3/8″ seam allowance and continue to sew the sides.
Fold the sleeves hem 1/2″ and sew. Iron the sleeves.
Step Five: Hemming and finishing the high-low t-shirt
Place the grommets at the bottom in the center of the t-shirt. (optional)
Attach the grommets following the package instructions.
Serge the bottom without stretching the fabric. Fold 1/2″ and sew at 1/8″ from the serged edge. Iron and your high-low t-shirt
This was my mock up and I like how it fits. Now I'm going to look for an actual t-shirt fabric to make it, one in white to go with my yoga pants, and one in gray to wear while walking the dog.
Need to make this T-shirt longer? Try this easy tutorial on how to lengthen a top.
Want to change to change the look of the T-shirt into a blouse? Try the bell sleeves transformation using the pattern you already have.