The High-Low T-shirt is the perfect item to hide your panty line. Let’s face it, girls, sometimes depending on the mood and “time of the month,” we feel like wearing an underwear that leaves us with the dreaded panty line. We’re not always in the mood for a tiny g-string, a sports undergarment, or a sexy lacy number. There’s nothing good about a panty line, but sometimes you just don’t care.
I’ve recently taken up Pilates and I’m determined to tone my Gluteus maximus aka my butt. Not for the reasons you might think, but simply because this muscle helps us keep a straight posture. In other words, no more back pain. If that isn’t reason enough, this is simply a great high-low t-shirt that is easily made and transformed into a great top.
With this top, the back is 4″ longer than the front. The ease of the high-low t-shirt is fairly minimal at the shoulders because it’s A-line and semi-fitted above the bust point. It will be loose around the hips and closer to your body at the shoulders. Perfect for the ladies who want to hide some extra pounds around the waistline and are looking for an easy-going, comfortable top to walk around in.
If used for Pilates or Yoga, this high-low t-shirt has a string at the bottom where you can tighten it so you will not have to worry about the t-shirt curling up your back when you bend over. But, of course, this feature is optional.
This pattern is suitable for two-way stretch knits or jersey knits only. I know what you are thinking, why is she using that fabric since this is supposed to be a t-shirt after all. Well, I just like to exercise in style..
If you do not have a serger and are using jersey knits, zigzag the seam allowances to prevent raveling. If using an ITY knit, there is no need for a serger since this type of fabric doesn’t ravel.
Skills required to make this t-shirt
- This is an easy top to make, but if this is your first time working with knits do not attempt this top until you have read all the instructions thoroughly
- Good knowledge of your sewing machine
- Ability using a ball point needle or a walking foot
- Experience in cutting and sewing with knits
- Knowledge on assembling and printing a PDF pattern
Materials
- 1 1/4 to 2 yards of jersey knit or ITY knit, 60″ wide
- Jersey needle size 70
- Thread to match
- 1″ Stay tape or stretchable fusible interfacing
- Two grommets 5mm in diameter (optional)
- Grommet tool (optional)
- 2 to 2 1/2 yards of thin cord or ribbon (optional)
- French ruler (optional)
Fabric Recommendations from Amazon.com
Pattern Download
You can download this pattern free from the So Sew Easy pattern store — just click the button below and your PDF, in both A4 and US Letter, is ready instantly. Prefer more guidance? A fully illustrated step-by-step version is available on the same page for a few dollars, which helps keep our patterns free for everyone. For help downloading and printing PDF patterns, please CLICK HERE.
Finished Measurements
To convert the measurements to centimeters accurately use this site.
| Size | Chest | Waist | Hem | Front Length | Back Length |
| Small | 36″ | 40″ | 54″ | 24″ | 28″ |
| Medium | 38 1/2″ | 42 1/2″ | 56 1/2″ | 24 1/2″ | 28 1/2″ |
| Large | 42 1/2″ | 46 1/2″ | 60 1/2″ | 25 1/2″ | 29 1/2″ |
| XL | 46 1/2″ | 50 1/2″ | 64 1/2″ | 26 1/2″ | 30 1/2″ |
| XXL | 50 1/2″ | 54 1/2″ | 68 1/2″ | 27 1/2″ | 31 1/2″ |
Pattern Layout
Print on landscape, in actual size, and using the latest version of the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Step One: Cut the fabric
The amount of fabric required will vary a bit depending on the size you choose to make. So the best thing you can do is to print the size you need and work it out with the fabric you have in mind. Do take into consideration when buying online that you can usually only ask for a whole number amount. Few companies will sell you half yards especially when on sale. As always, I recommend you to look in your fabric stash for the appropriate fabric.
Cut front and back on the fold. Apply stay tape or stretchable fusible interfacing on the shoulders, neckline and at the hem.
Step Two: Sew the dart and shoulder seam.
Sew the darts. Try to finish the dart without creating a bubble at the end. If you need some help, here’s a complete tutorial on How to Sew Darts.
Sew the shoulders and zigzag or use your serger.
Fitting tip: Taking in consideration that you will have a 3/8″ seam allowance, put on the top and check whether the neckline is too high. Increase or decrease using a French ruler according to your taste. Once you are happy, apply 1/2″ Stay Tape or stretchable fusible interfacing to the neckline.
Step Three: Drafting and sewing the neck facing
The neck facing is not included in the pattern. You will have to measure the neckline and cut a rectangle with that measurement by 1 1/2″. When sewing this neck facing to the neckline use a 1/2″ seam allowance. For the rest of the high-low t-shirt use a 3/8″ seam allowance and a 1/2″ hem.
Measure the neckline.
Cut a strip of fabric across the horizontal stretch of the fabric. Use this exact measurement to cut the facing. Right sides facing each other, sew the sides at 1/2″ to make a loop. Use small notches to divide the loop into four equal parts indicating the front, back
Working on the right side of the fabric, pin the seam of the band to one of the shoulder seams and match the other notches to the center front, center back and the other shoulder seam. Sew at 1/2″ seam allowance.
Pin and stretch between the four points.
Sew the facing at 3/8″. Iron.
Step Four: Sewing the sleeves and the sides
Match the notches on your sleeves.
One notch is the front of the sleeve. Two notches indicate the back of the sleeve.
Sew the sleeves using a 3/8″ seam allowance and continue to sew the sides.
Fold the sleeves hem 1/2″ and sew. Iron the sleeves.
Step Five: Hemming and finishing the high-low t-shirt
Place the grommets at the bottom in the center of the t-shirt. (optional)
Attach the grommets following the package instructions.
Serge the bottom without stretching the fabric. Fold 1/2″ and sew at 1/8″ from the serged edge. Iron and your high-low t-shirt
This was my mock up and I like how it fits. Now I’m going to look for an actual t-shirt fabric to make it, one in white to go with my yoga pants, and one in gray to wear while walking the dog.
Need to make this T-shirt longer? Try this easy tutorial on how to lengthen a top.
Want to change to change the look of the T-shirt into a blouse? Try the bell sleeves transformation using the pattern you already have.
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Hi…I love this pattern and can’t wait to make it. But I have a computer question for printing out the pattern itself. I’ve followed the instructions and no matter how I print, the test box comes out 1 5/8″ square – rather than 2″ square. Are you able to tell me what I need to do? Will this difference make a significant different in the actual pattern?
Hi, Jay. I have just printed page 5 on UK A4 paper with an Epson printer. The test square has measured 2 inch on all sides. My printer settings were Auto for page orientation, and Actual for size. Before losing hope just download the pattern again to make sure you have an up to date version. Check the properties when the PDF is open. Mine show that the paper size in US A4 which is slightly smaller on one side compared to UK A4 . This is why using Auto and Actual is important. If your printer allows you to centre the print that may help too. Hope this helps.
This was… far from easy. And frankly I could have done without the panty line discussion.
I made this in a floaty cotton fabric just to see what it would come out like. I had to cut the sleeve the next size bigger to the body and add a little gather at the top of sleeve arm hole. For example medium body large sleeve. It has come out a lovely. You could wear over a costume or bikini on the beach in the summer. I am going to make it again in a jersey fabric. A beautiful pattern. You could stick to the same sleeve size as the body and just make the top of the arm a bit bigger to fit the armhole, just by a few cm. I chose to do a bigger sleeve so its more floaty, the gather at the top of the arm doesn’t look out of place.
Great pattern adjustments, congratulations!
Hi. Just wondering if the pattern includes the seam allowance or do I need to account for that myself. Thanks very much
HI Carrie, the seam allowance is included, and it is 3/8″.
I am sewing this up today as part of the #sewfrugal22 IG challenge. I have to say the pattern does not match the shirt in the photos. The neckline is much narrower than in the photos, and the back bodice piece is cut more like what I would expect from a racerback tank top. I will alter the neckline before sewing, I should end up with a wearable garment, even if I have to turn it into a sleeveless racerback tee. I would suggest only starting with printing and assembling the back piece, and seeing where the armscye hits you, before deciding if this is a garment for you.
How much ease is designed into the bust and the upper bust? I usually need to do an FBA. This information will help me.Thanks.
I made this and had a couple of notes that might help others. I basted the neck facing on and it was way too loose. I cut two inches off of it and rebasted it and it was perfect. Most advice I’ve seen says to cut it 15%-20% shorter than the neckline measurement. And the arm at the bicep was fitted on me and I have a very small arm. If your arm is chunkier, I’d allow a little more room for that.
I looked up ITY fabric it said it has a silky feel. Is it a blend ? What % would I be looking for that silky drape feel?
Thank you Gail Rogers
I made this in a XXL. It fits well from the bust down, but it is far too small where the armscye for some reason just scoops in on both front and back. How do I fix it?
Why the grommets. What is the purpose? I love the look of this top and will be making a few but I don’t understand the grommets! Could you please explain to me. Thank you!
Did you read this part? : “If used for Pilates or Yoga, this high-low t-shirt has a string at the bottom where you can tighten it so you will not have to worry about the t-shirt curling up your back when you bend over. But, of course, this feature is optional.” That should explain the grommets.
I’m using the popular clothing line Lularoe. I’ve gone from a 3x to a women’s medium. I still love the patterns of my larger shirts and want to make them smaller.
Is this pattern conducive to this plan?
Thankyou for the lovely pattern. I’m teaching myself so your tips are invaluable. Can you please explain the fusible taping, how it works and how to apply. Apologies for my lack of brain cells.
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I hope I am not too late to ask a question. I have had this pattern on my computer for a while. Is there a pattern layout to place the pattern one the fabric? Or do I just do it as economically as possible, keeping everything going in the right direction?
Hi Lesley, Indeed that is the way to do it. Since the picture would have to change depending on the size and width of the pattern.
Make sure the length of the pattern runs along the length of the fabric for best results.
You say this pattern is suitable for 2-way stretch and jersey stretch. Does that mean that I can use both 2-way stretch and 4-way stretch fabrics?
Yes, you can use both. Just make sure the biggest stretch is horizintally.
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Once the facing is attached the shirt; Is it folded under and stitched 3/8″ to the shirt or does it stand?
Folded, please.
It’s a nice shirt. Thanks for the pattern. Is it right, that the seam allowance 3/8″ ist already included in the pattern?
yes it is!