I've always wanted to do a project to sew my own trench coat. I've loved trench coats since I was a teen and with autumn just around the corner, I think it would be a fun project the would result in a practical garment for the cool, wet weather that is on the way. (Remember, I live in Chile in the southern hemisphere so the seasons are reversed. Even so, this makes a good project for spring if you're in the northern climes.)
As I often do before a project, I wanted to research the trench coat history so I could better understand how and why they were made. Below is what I learned. If you're interested in a pattern and project to sew your own trench coat, please let me know in the comments at the end of the article. If a lot of readers are interested, I'll get started on the pattern.
Trench Coat History
The iconic standard dress of detectives, spies, central park flashers, explorers and human-race-saving action heroes. Inspector Clouseau, Neo and Trinity, Sir Ernest Shackleton and the weirdo on the park bench all have one thing in common…the trench coat.
This staple of Western fashion culture is a favorite of men and women, young and old. A practical, waterproof item that can be pulled on over anything, whether it be sexy lingerie, a concealed magnum or Katana or a superhero leotard and stockings. The trench coat is here to stay, forever being revived and revitalized on runways and in the movies. Let’s take a closer look at the origins and characteristics of the humble (or is it not-so-humble?) trench coat.
Characteristics:
Typically seen with ten large (plastic or wooden) buttons, the double breasted trench coat is traditionally worn in camouflage military colors like Khaki, tan, beige and black but over the years it’s been manufactured and featured on runways in just about every color and print known to man.
The shoulder straps of the trench coat were added during WWI so that soldiers could attach their rank insignia and epaulets. D rings were also added so that map cases, swords, and other equipment could be attached. Coats also included huge pockets for storing gear and ventilation flaps for expelling dodgy wartime odors. The name ‘trench-coat’ was originated during the war, by front line soldiers who saw the officers wearing the coats on a daily basis in the trenches.
Trench coats were designed to be short enough not to trail in the mud and flaring out wide enough from the waist to allow freedom of movement. Small cape crosses at the back allow water to slough off efficiently. The original coats came with a removable liner that could double as a blanket when needed. Collar buttons at the neck would allow gas masks to be tucked under the collar so that they would be more airtight.
Trench coats usually have raglan sleeves, extending from the cuff all the way to the collar, so the seam runs from collarbone to underarm, but designs do vary. They also have cuff straps, to be fastened when spying with binoculars, so that water won’t run down the arm. They are meant to protect from wind and rain, not so much snow and cold. They are usually made from a thinner material than an overcoat or warmcoat, but their loose fit means that extra layers can be worn underneath. They were sized large so that British Officers could easily wear their warm coats underneath.
Origins:
Thomas Burberry came up with the idea for the trench coat after inventing a waterproof fabric named gabardine in 1879, the trench coat was designed by him as an Army officer’s raincoat or windbreaker, he delivered the plans to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901 and they accepted.
However, the UK based company, Aquascutum (inventors of a waterproof fabric by the same name), also lays claim to the invention, much earlier: in 1851, for officers serving in the Crimean War. Even before this, a similar rubberized cotton coat (a Mackintosh) was worn, the idea for the ventilation flaps originated from the terrible mixture of rubber smell and sweat which was a side effect of wearing the Mack.
So (after Burberry’s submission in 1901), the trench coat, as we recognize it, became available for British Officers and Warrant Officers 1st Class to order at will. The fact that the trench coat wasn’t available for anyone of lower rank went a long way to building up the reputation of the coat in perpetuity. To this day it’s considered a gentlemanly or ladylike staple for businessmen and people of class.
Back Home:
Officers grew attached to their coats and continued to wear them at home after the war, that’s how the trench-coat took to the streets. Another factor in their popularity was the fact that Burberry and Aquascutum while being the standard military outfitters, were also leading gentlemen’s wear and sportswear manufacturers.
A practical item for cold weather, waterproof with great big pockets, easy to pull over a suit or ballroom gown. Back at home, the belt would often be tied in a loose knot, instead of fastening the buckle in the more formal way done by military men.
When WWII began, the trench coat was still the best option for officers in the field during cold weather. Other countries followed suit but soon the coat became shorter and eventually, the shorter field jacket took over from the trench because it allowed officers to be a little more mobile. Nevertheless, back home on the streets, the fashion stuck and the trench coat had found a place in society.
It became quite obvious in the 1990’s that the real wartime origin of the trench coat had been forgotten…Burberry advertising campaigns on Regent Street read in huge letters ‘Trench Fever!’, only veterans of war remembered that trench fever was, in fact, a nasty disease that had been spread by lice in the trenches during the war.
Wartime, as well as mafia and detective films, made the trench coat something truly iconic, we’re all familiar with the ensemble of a trench coat, fedora, and cigar made famous by so many Hollywood movies. Over time, designers began downsizing the coats and making them out of warmer fabric, so the warm coat and the trench coat pretty much serve the same purpose these days.
Nowadays the trench coat makes its appearance on cue every winter in some format or another and most of us are able to say that we either plan to own one or we already do!
(Mimicking a British Officer) Harrumph. I say, old chap, be a jolly good thing to have for a Halloween Costume. Doubly so since this is the Centennial of America’s entry into the Great War. Might be a few others wishing for one to honor those old Doughboys. Even with a liner, would probably be cheaper than a ready made from the top end manufacturers. Marginal difference from less costly sources unless one is available from the discount stores.
Is it still considered a “trench coat” if it is single breasted instead of double rbeasted?
The Trench is double breasted, in the past 15 years worn single breasted to accommodate a more ample chest. It is easily confused with the Polo Coat, that can be double or single breasted with or without a sash.
I believe you meant Thomas Burberry in 1879 ……… inventing a waterproof fabric named gabardine in 1979. Excellent history – thank you for sharing
I did indeed. Thanks for catching this. I have corrected. Kind regards, Mayra
A light trench coat for hear in Zimbabwe would be lovely. Love your history lessons. thank you.
I’m very interested, would love to use a wild fabric.
I had no idea of the trench coat history… 😮
thank you so much for tell us
the project is interesting, indeed. I’ll be expecting news about
I would love a pattern. I too, like many other commenters, am 5″ and traditional trench coats tend to overwhelm me. Making my own would be amazing!! Thank you for the article as well, very interesting.
Yes, I would to sew a trend coat. Love the one I had. Living in the sub tropics a light weight would be great.
I would be interested also. The trench coat has always been a favorite of mine.
Love the article. Very informative. I would love a pattern for a trench coat. It is a timeless piece and I would love one.
I, too, love the idea of a tutorial for a trench coat.
I would never even dream of making a trench coat (I’m a straight-line patchwork piecing sewer), but I thoroughly enjoyed your article on its history. You are an excellent tool writer!
I’ve always loved the look of a trench coat. Would love to make one.
Would love a pattern for a trench. You could include both options for single or double breasted versions. Don’t leave off the traditional features like the shoulder straps, vents, etc. They can be left off by those who don’t want them as they make the coat. I am only 5’0″, narrow square shoulders, and making my own clothing is almost a necessity. I do own a trench coat, a lovely taupe Calvin Klein, but it would be fun to make my own in a flashier color or print. Don’t forget, as you make the trench, that pressing is so important for a style like this. Anxiously awaiting that pattern!
Thank you so much for this very thoughtful article. Until now, I’d never considered where the trench coat got it’s name or its original purpose. History is one of my loves and warm coats are another. Many skinny years ago, I had a plain tan trench coat that I loved, but outgrew. This I definitely something I’d be interested in making, but in a much better color. Thnks for sharing.
I’m interested.
I would love one. With my 5′ nothing full length ones are always way too long for me.
Would love to have the pattern and tutorial. I have an ‘old’ trenchcoat, which is long and would like to make a shorter version – probably in red!
I’ve been looking for this pattern for a while I had a ready made one for a while. I think it so rich looking
I have avoided trench coats for a long time because of their classical style and one thing my style is not is classical. Until I found a red one that I love. So being able to make my own in a non-classical fabric sounds great!
I would love the pattern for a trench coat. Although, I’ve been wanting to make the long wool coats like Pendleton has. So a good would be nice with it instead of only the collar style. Thanks you so much if this is an option, or I could alter instead.
The trench coat is definitely a timeless wardrobe staple. Count me in. I’ve made wool coats before but I’ve never worked with waterproof fabric before.
I love the idea of the trench, but I have never tried on one I liked. I want one that has some va-va-voom! The cape across the back and the shoulder straps seem the opposite of sexy to me. I’d love one that’s more shaped like an A-line dress; the raglan sleeves sound beautiful. It makes your work harder but if you could design one with the cape/straps optional, and nixing the double-breastedness (to second the commenter who said the same), I’d be “in”.
I would love to make one!
It would be an interesting project for sure. Fabric may be a problem though. Suggestions of type and weight would be really helpful. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Your patterns have been very good.
I’m very interested for a trenchcoat pattern. I already made a blazer once, but never a trenchcoat.
Greetings, Elke
I’d be interested in a pattern. Interesting history.
I would love to make one ,like your other customer i grew out of mine
How intriguing! I’d love to make my own trench coat also. I’ve made a cape and a jacket and loved both. Count me in!
I would be really interested in the pattern. Your research on this is really interesting. Thank you.
You are most welcome Caroline 😉
Interesting article! Thanks.
You are welcome!
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE IT!!! I am extra tall and Barbie Doll proportioned so I have always made many of my clothes. I have always wanted a trench coat because Texas winters are generally mild but damp but have never been able to afford a nice one. A pattern would be awesome!!!
I am 5’1″ and far from Barbie proportions, this literally makes me your fairy grandmother 😉
I would LOVE to make my own trench coat. The only change: I strongly dislike double breasted coats. I have always wanted a RED one
I hear you, Janet!
I’m intrigued by the possibilities, but even though I’ve been sewing for years, I’ve never made outerwear, and am a bit intimidated by the thought.
Hi, Mary, don’t be it is a project for advanced sewers but I do my best to make it easier.
I loved every bit of your post. Thank you. A pattern would be great. Sara
Thank you, Sara I will see what is the demand since it will be a very time-consuming project to put together. The pattern took me a few hours to make is the tutorials and more importantly, the videos that take most of the time, so I will need a bit of demand to proceed.
I want one> Interested in the progect
Excellent! Will let you know when it is ready.
I would love to sew a trench coat. Ive made a couple of attempts but no real sucess. Please do a follow along, i would love it.
Regards jean
Yes Jean, it an advanced project but it does not have to be difficult. The key is the fit and the straight stitching.
Yes, please!
wow i love trenchcoats and would love to learn how to make my own! I used to have such a pretty blue one but sadly I grew out of it 🙁
I can feel your pain, I lost one when it got caught on a wire and ripped. I was so sad because it was made out of suede.
I always thought about creating my own trench coat too.
So let’s make that thought a reality 🙂
Very interesting with all the history. I would love to be able to make one, customized for the way I would wear it.
Looking forward to having more people join in.