This weekend we are going to make a hooded cardigan with pockets. This is part two of the Proteus cardigan series where we are using the same pattern to make a few different looks. Previously I had shared with you the Proteus cardigan with bishop sleeves. The body of the cardigan is the same as before, however, the sleeves, hood, and pocket are new. This is a new and complete pattern in itself but also represents an evolution of the style we worked on in Part 1, so don't forget to check it out before we move on.
I am also using a slightly heavier fabric than part one, a 4-way stretch knit perfect for the project. Check out the fabric suggestions if you want the same look. So if you have already downloaded the first part, all you have to print now is the hood and the sleeves.
I am loving this hooded cardigan for the versatility, can be worn open for a casual look or belted for an hourglass more sophisticated look. The hood is handy for the pesky sun or the cold wind in the late afternoon Autumn day.
Pockets on the side to keep your hands warm.
This project is for an advanced beginner and will require the ability to follow instructions and previous experience with working with knits.
This hooded cardigan is best suited for the hourglass figure however other shapes can wear it successfully if proportions according to the body shape are kept.
- 2.5 yards of 60″ wide 4-way sweater knit fabric
- Thread to match
Fabric Recommendations from Fabric.com
How to Print your hooded cardigan with pockets
Please use the latest version of Adobe Reader which is completely free. Print on Actual Size and Landscape Mode. I do not ask you to download any other program in order to print this pattern.
How To Sew Your Hooded Cardigan With Pockets
The sewing is the same as in the first one, but of course, since we have an additional hood finishing. You will need to trace two rectangles 9″ X 8″ for the pockets and two strips of fabric 1″ X the length from the center front to the hem plus 2″. Both pockets and strip will have the grain-line running lengthwise.
Note: Use your selvage to cut the strips of fabric, the selvage does not ravel therefore you will not have to use the overlocker nor zigzag in that area.
How To Draft Your Pocket
Make a rectangle that is 9″ Long by 8″ wide. Add 5/8″ to one of the sides at the bottom. Re-trace the side. It looks like a funny shape now but it will be clear to you once you pin the pockets to the cardigan. Overlock or zigzag the top of the pockets. Fold 1″, stitch and iron and put aside.
There are 4 pieces for the hood but just one pattern piece. This means you need to sew two pieces together to make one inside of the hood and another two pieces to make the outside of the hood. There will be a center seam on each side. Sew the curved side right sides together. Repeat with the other two pieces.
We will join both sides by sewing the opening or the area that frames the face of the hood. Right sides together sew. Turn and stitch 5/8″ from the edge.
Iron and leave aside for now.
Right sides together, sew the shoulders and use your overlocker or zigzag to clean the seam and stop the fabric from raveling.
Hang the cardigan on your shoulders and decide how high your pockets are going to be. Pin the pockets placing the slanted side to the at the side seams of the cardigan. Once we sew the cardigan we will also be sewing the side of the pocket.
Sew the pocket using a very small stitch, I used a 2.5 on my Bernina 350 PE (fellow fans of Bernina sewing machines, click here). I have put the side seam of the cardigan together to make sure the pockets are at the same height. Hope you do not get confused here.
Sew on the sides towards the center front and bottom only. The other side of the pocket will be sewn when we join the front and back of the cardigan. Sew very close to the edge of the pocket, this stitch will almost not be visible. If you prefer a more casual look you can do a double stitch using a twin needle.
Pin the center seam of the hood to the center of the neckline.
Pin the strip of fabric on top of the hood. I have joined the two strips together and I am aligning the seam of the strip with the seams of the hood.
So you will end up with a sandwich cardigan+hood+strip of fabric. Pin the strip of fabric from the neckline to the front all the way to the hem then repeat on the other side. Sew the same way from the neckline to the hem on one side, then from the neckline to the hem on the other side.
This technique both conceals the seam allowance at the neckline and finished the front edge of the cardigan.
Sew the sleeves to the cardigan then use your overlocker or zigzag the seam allowance.
It is time to sew the sides of this hooded cardigan starting from the sleeve all the way to the hem. Overlock or zigzag the seam allowance open. This is my preference because when I go to make the hem it will lie nice and flat. When you overlock or zigzag the sides together there will be a lump at the sides.
Overlock or zigzag the hem keeping the sides seam allowance open.
Turn the hem 5/8″ and sew.
Now it is time to sew the strip down start at the neckline. Because we are using the selvage there is no need to overlock, but if you do not like the look, by all means, do pass the overlocker at the edge without cutting the fabric then stitch all the way to the hem. Repeat on the other side.
Why sew it this way you might ask? If you start on one side then finish on the other many times you will have fabric either missing or too much fabric at the end. Experience has taught me this is a better way to avoid mistakes. Since it is a challenge to unpick knit I rather avoid it as much as I can.
Hope you enjoy this week's project and the finished product. I'm looking forward to wearing it with a belt and double lobster claw where I have my wallet on one side and my car keys on the other. As always ladies and gentlemen, have a lovely time sewing.
Until next time, keep your scissors sharp!