In this third part of the Walking Shorts Sew Along, we will be sewing a waistband to a fly front zipper. But before that, I will be showing you how to trace the waistband so you can learn the process from pattern making to final sewing.
We are doing a straight waistband, so it will be easy to draft.
If you have missed the first two parts here are the links to take you there. Please read thoroughly the first two parts so you are able to follow until the end of the sew-along.
Materials and Tools
- Fusible interfacing according to the weight of your fabric
- pattern making ruler or a meter stick
- measuring tape
- grading ruler
- buttonhole foot
- thread to match
- patternmaking paper
Step Seven: Measurements Required to Sew and Trace a Waistband to a Fly Front Zipper
- Measure the waist of your shorts
- Divide the short's waist circumference the following way: Back, front left (button location) and front right (buttonhole location)
Step Eight: How to Trace the Waistband
I have to add before we continue that the following steps are for a straight waistband, not a curved waistband. Both types will use the same markings on the pattern. Starting on the left leg where the button will be located.
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- Front center
- Left Pocket location
- Side seam
- Center Back
- Side seam
- Right Pocket location
- Center front
Trace a rectangle with the measurement you have taken from your shorts by 3 inches (7.5cm). This will become the interfacing pattern (B)
Waist measurement of shorts X 3 inches (7.5cm)
Retrace the rectangle with all the pattern markings and add the seam allowance and you will have (A), see drawing above.
Step Nine: How to Sew a Waistband to a Fly Front Zipper
This is the easiest way to sew a waistband, guaranteed!
Cut the waistband following the direction of the grain line. Cut the interfacing using the pattern you made, see the drawing (B) above.
Fuse the interfacing to the waistband on the wrong side of the fabric using an iron. Fold the waistband lengthwise matching all the notches and iron. This is done so it is clear where the middle is. We need the crease to guide us when finishing the waistband.
Pin the waist band to the shorts starting on the left leg leaving the seam allowance out. This is how it should look.
Make sure to match all the notches to the shorts.
Start sewing at the beginning of the band. This stitching line will help you finish the band perfectly.
Press the seams upwards or towards the waistband.Trim the seam allowance (no more than half the seam allowance) of the shorts, not the band. This is a tip to reduce the bulk around the waist band.
Another great tip is to iron and fold the seam allowance of the band before stitching it. It makes it so much easier to finish sewing the waistband. Fold the waistband in half right sides together aligning the seam allowance. You should have the interfacing on the outside.Sew both ends of the waistband and trim the seam allowance.Turn the waistband the right way and pin. If you are a beginner or have only sewn one or two waistbands, I suggest you baste the waistband by hand then stitch it with the sewing machine.Start stitching on the right side of the shorts no more than 1/8″ from the edge of the waistband.
Front view.Inside view.
Step Ten: Heming Your Walking Shorts
There are a few ways to hem shorts. I thought I would write about all of them because I think you will be able to take advantage of all of these different techniques. For now, the simplest way is to follow the pattern you were given in Part One of the sew along.
Simply use the first fold line of your pattern as a reference.
- Fold the hem 1/2 inch. Iron.
- Fold again this time at one inch.
Please note the button and the end of buttonhole should align directly above the zipper head.
This is the end of part three. As usual, please leave any questions, comments or suggestions along with constructive criticism in the comments below and I will get back to you. Yes! and before you ask where are the cuffs for the shorts, I will be making a separate tutorial specially for the subject.
I am back from vacation next week and we will be back to my usual routine. I have many exciting projects for you to try. Hope you will enjoy them as much as I have enjoyed researching them.