I'm embarking upon an epic fitting exercise and learning to sew the perfect fit this year, following along with the Craftsy course of the same name and the lovely instructor Lynda Maynard. You can read Part 1 of the series at 2013 is the year of Sew the Perfect Fit, Part 2 at Muslin Bodice Adjustment and Part 3 in Bodice Pattern Adjustment. Today, making a skirt muslin, adjustment and pattern correction.
Warning ! Not very flattering photos below. If you are under 18 or of a nervous disposition or have a weak heart or stomach – best not to look!
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Lesson 7 – The Lower Body, Making a Skirt Muslin
So having followed Lynda's directions, I cut my entire pattern as a size 12, despite the pattern envelope telling me quite clearly that I was going to be a much larger size than that below the waist. I made my muslin without alteration and tried to get it on. Yikes. And you don't even want to see the back view – trust me it's not pretty.
Lynda assures us that its easier to add a little than take away, and assuming the dress fits at the top, the bottom half is easy to adjust. Thank goodness it turns out she is quite right! If I had made the skirt in the size suggested by the envelope it would have been huge! But this skirt really only needed a few simple changes and it was ready to go.
Again I used the slash and add method, cutting the skirt from top to bottom front and back on the outside of the darts, and adding in fabric until it felt right. I pinned and then basted the extra fabric in place because the pins kept falling out as I walked about.
I got all over-excited and pinned it to the bodice I had already completed to take a look. Well, I think it's a very unusual take on this season's trend of color-blocking! But as my first ever real muslin – I love it!
Now I have the skirt and bodice attached, it does look like there is a bit of wrinkling and extra fabric in the back bodice. The measurement around seems fine so I think I need a ‘sway back' adjustment to take out some length at center back. I can't take out too much or I won't get much room for movement. And I still think those bust darts are too high, although I'm wearing a different bra today so I suppose it all depends.
Time to mark the skirt adjustments on the pattern pieces. Again I traced the tissue pattern onto some medical paper, marked all the pattern markings including stitching and cuttings lines and then made the same adjustments to the paper as I had made to the fabric. This time it was a little more complicated as I had not added a tapered or straight amount but a combination so I had to use various hinge points. Here are the finished pattern pieces with the adjustments marked.
Because of my square shape, I needed more in the waist, a little less in the hip and not much added from the widest part down.
In our next lessons, sleeves, armholes, and truing the pattern.
Disclosure – I bought the course myself and am not being compensated in any way from Craftsy for this course review. I really love the Craftsy classes and negotiated this special rate for your benefit. I am an affiliate so will receive a commission if you buy this course using my special discount link.
Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy