Many of you may remember the very popular project we published recently featuring Bali the Reversible Skirt. When we were shooting the photos for this post, we chose to use a white pleated blouse to complement the skirt. While the skirt was very well received and many of our members made the project, we ended up getting as many questions about the blouse the model was wearing as we did about the skirt!
So this week I decided to make a pattern and project for this attractive pleated blouse.
About the name: Eve, the any day blouse, why the name? According to the Bible, Eve was the first mother. As mothers go, once you are a mother, you will always be a mother. So in the lead up to Mother's Day, I wanted to share this blouse tutorial with you as a gift for all the women who play many roles as mothers, wives, friends and daughters.
So here is a blouse to represent you all in many different activities. For lunch with a friend, taking a long trip, or going to the doctors or even hiking, this blouse will do it all depending on what fabric you choose. I have chosen silk because of the breath-ability in the soaring temperatures particularly where I live here in Singapore. This is a blouse that will look great with shorts, pencil skirts, skinny jeans, pajama pants, and goes fantastic under a suit.
The blouse will accommodate a bust and hips from 34″ to 54″ in width.
The best part? For intermediate level sewers, this project is super easy to make. I hope you enjoy!
Materials
- 1 1/2 yards of Silk, Georgette, Satin, Crepe, Gauze , or Rayon. It must drape and cling to the body.
- Suggested fabrics: Satin, Crepe, or Challis Rayon (this is what is used in the white version in the photos)
- 1 yard of 1 inch bias tape for beginners. For experienced sewers, 1/2 inch satin bias is an option. Or you can make your own.
- Sewing thread
- Size 9 sewing needle. We always use Schmetz.
- Rotary cutter and a large mat. Fiskars makes a good set if you don't have one.
- Sewing machine
- Serger (optional)
Fabric Recommendations from Amazon
Pattern Measurements
Please allow 8- 12 inches of ease for this blouse, you can wear it a bit tighter if you wish. Extra small does mean for an extra small person. The design of the blouse is to allow easy on the fabric does not mean that a person with a 49 inch bust can wear the XS. Body bust measurements 30″ to 44″ inches.
Warning: This is not a plus size blouse despite of the measurements given below. 
Here are the pattern measurements.
| Size | Bust | Hips |
| XS | 49″ | 50″ |
| X | 50″ | 51″ |
| M | 51″ | 52″ |
| L | 52″ | 53″ |
| XL | 53.5″ | 54.5″ |
| XXL | 55″ | 56″ |
Step One: Download, print and assemble the free pattern
Print the pattern using Adobe Reader. This is the only program you need to download and print the pattern.
Print using Actual Size and Landscape Mode. There are additional instructions for printing on the pattern.
You can download the pattern and instructions for the Eve, Pleated Blouse from our account at Payhip.
For help downloading and printing PDF patterns, please CLICK HERE.
Step Two: Wash the fabric
Pre-washing is crucial step if you are using a fabric with natural fibers. If you are not sure what's the composition of the fabric you have on hand, check out this YouTube video on how to test for the presence of polyester in your fabric.
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This step is best done at night before going to bed. You can leave the fabric to air dry away from sunlight. Iron the fabric on a low temperature and you are ready to start cutting.
Step Three: Cut the fabric
Because we are using a very slinky material, (I am using a printed silk satin) it is crucial that we find the grain of the fabric. For a way to find the grain and more tips on cutting fabric please visit our tutorial: 5 Mistakes to avoid when cutting fabric.
The use of weights when cutting with a rotary cutter is a widely accepted practice, however, make sure you have a very sharp blade otherwise your fabric will move around causing you to waste your time having to align the edges of the fabric again. It is best to weigh down the fabric and pin in a few places especially around the curves.
The front part is cut on the fold and the back has two pieces.
TIP: I cut my fabric with wrong side facing because I am going to make a French seam. This makes it easier to take the fabric pieces straight to the machine. For guidance on How to sew a French Seam, please review this tutorial.
Mark the pleats clearly with a notch to indicate the fold lines and placement of pleats.
Step Four: Make the bias tape
Making your own bias tape would be the ideal way to use the leftover of the fabric. To do this, simply cut a 2-inch strip to make the 1-inch bias. 
I am using a contrasting color and a smaller size. I would prefer to match the bias to the rest of the blouse, but for a tutorial purpose I am using a contrasting color so the details stand out. For more information and guidance on Making continuous bias binding tape, please review this tutorial.
Step Five: Sew the back
You can use your serger, to finish the seams if you want, but because of the delicate nature of silk and satin, the French seam is the best seam to use to sew the blouse. Start by sewing the back at 3/8″, iron the seam to one side and turn the piece, iron again.
Sew again at 3/8″.
Pin the bias tape to the keyhole in the back and sew. Follow the first crease of the bias tape or the one closest to the edge of the fabric.
I am using a very thin bias tape. If you are not used to sewing with slippery fabric or sewing bias tape, please use a 1-inch tape which will be easier. If you are an experienced sewer, go ahead and use the satin 1/2″ bias tape.
Trim the threads of the fabric if it is unraveling, but not too close because it will be difficult to catch the edge of the fabric inside the tape.
Iron the fabric, and fold the bias making sure the end of the tape will cover the stitch you just made and sew.
Step Six: Make the pleats
In the pattern, there are two fold lines and one placement line per pleat.
You will be making three pleats that fold to the right and three pleats that fold to the left.
Step Seven: Assembling your pleated blouse
Using a straight stitch, then a serger, sew the shoulders. You can use a french seam.
Sew the sides the same way you did the shoulders.
Step Eight: Finish the neck
Apply bias tape to the neck. For a more detailed explanation on how to apply bias tape to the neck follow this on how to Use bias tape for a neckline or armhole facing.
I have done it a bit differently, this technique is highly recommended when using stretch fabrics, except that when using stretch fabric you need to make the tape slightly smaller. In our case, it needs to be exactly the same length of the opening of the neck.
Measure the neck of the size you are making and cut the same amount plus 5/8″
Sew both ends of the tape using 5/8″ seam to make a loop.
On the right side of the fabric, pin the loop seam to the shoulder seam, you will be able to adjust the tape if it is too tight or too loose using the 5/8″ allowance. If you measured correctly, you will have no adjustments to make. 
Pay special attention when pinning the tape to the key hole area. 
The keyhole should be pinned side by side with no gaps. 
Cut the seam allowance of the loop by half. This will allow you to turn the tape easier. Proceed to sew the bias tape all around to the neck. Turn and pin again, this time making sure you grab the back of the tape. Sew very carefully either on the gap between the fabric and the tape or slightly on the edge of the tape. This is part of your designer discretion. 
Step Nine: Sew the hems
You can finish the hem and the sleeves in a number of ways and it will all depend on your taste.
Use the serger to clean the edges, then fold about 2/8″ and sew. Use a twin needle to make a good looking hem. For additional guidance on How to use a twin needle, please review this tutorial.
You could also use a roll hem foot and finish both the sleeves and hem with it. But, what happens when you do not have a rolled hem foot or a serger?
This is what you can do.
Choose a small zigzag setting, I am using number 2. Starting with your needle no wider than the space of the foot. About 2/8″.
Here is how it should look. You could fold about 3/8″ and sew the hem with a straight stitch. 
Turn the hem 2/8″ or 3/8″ and sew. For the sleeves, you can make it even narrower if you want.
It has taken me a bit over an hour to make this pleated blouse. It's pretty easy to make for intermediate sewers yet has a great deal of functionality and can be worn with skinny jeans, shorts, pencils skirts, or pajama pants this blouse will look great under a blazer as well. Please enjoy and happy sewing!
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You can download the pattern and instructions for the Eve, Pleated Blouse from our account at Payhip.
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Thank you for this free pattern! I made one up in a gauze fabric and it was a super fast, very rewarding project. I have a large bust and a full belly and found this blouse to be both flattering and comfortable. I’ve gotten lots of compliments on it. Thanks agian!
So happy you are happy, you choose the perfect fabric that is why is working for you, I did not think of gauze but thanks to you I have added it on the fabric suggestions.
I am trying to download a copy of the pleated Blouse pattern, but my firewall is blocking the link saying it is not the right page.It comes up with:
chrome-extension://cjpalhdlnbpafiamejdnhcphjbkeiagm/document-blocked.html?details=eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwOi8vd3d3LnNoYXJlYXNhbGUuY29tL3IuY2ZtP3U9MTIxNzIwOCZiPTI1MzUzNiZtPTI5MTkwJmFmZnRyYWNrPSZ1cmxsaW5rPXd3dyUyRWNyYWZ0c3klMkVjb20lMkZzZXdpbmclMkZwYXR0ZXJucyUyRmV2ZSUyRHRoZSUyRGV2ZXJ5d2hlcmUlMkRwbGVhdGVkJTJEYmxvdXNlJTJGMzA0MTg0IiwiaG4iOiJ3d3cuc2hhcmVhc2FsZS5jb20iLCJkbiI6InNoYXJlYXNhbGUuY29tIiwiZmMiOiJbMCw2MixcInNoYXJlYXNhbGUuY29tXCJdIiwiZnMiOiJ8fHNoYXJlYXNhbGUuY29tXiJ9.
Found in: Peter Lowe’s Ad and tracking server list
Not sure what this means, but it appears that opening up this page to the file will also put you on this ad and tracking list as well.
No, what you are experiencing is your browser behavior. Please empty your cache and cookies and your browsing history and try again.
Thank you for this pattern. However, the link still did not work for me either. So there is a work around to this. Simply click the gray colored circle with the three dots next to the Pinterest circle. A box will pop up to where you can scroll down the left column to where it says print friendly. Click on that and you can choose to save the file or print it out as a PDF file.
Hi Myra:
I love the versatility of this blouse, and I’m even more tickled by the idea of it as a dress. Will a soft cotton gauze work? And you suggest placing the back of the pattern on the fold to eliminate the seam but still keep the “keyhole”?
Yes, of course, you can do that, I would strongly recommend placing the bias tape in the keyhole so it does not changes shape as you sew other sides. With a thin belt your look like a greek goddess. Load a picture would you love to see a take on this.
Hi, the link isn’t working.
Hi Andrea, I’ve just checked it and it works fine for me. Many thousands have downloaded so I’m confident all is going well. Please give it another try. Thanks and happy sewing, Mayra
Love your top Mayra. Can you tell me how to do a small roll over hem stitched on the machine. You showed it as a 3/8″ hem sewed in a straight stitch. Can you give a step by step on how you do this kind of hem. I would surely love to do it. It would come in handy when making scarfs. Thanks.
Hi Karen thanks for the suggestion, yes! I will show how I do this because it is actually very easy to do.
What would this look like in a jersey knit as a take on a t-shirt?
So…. What would happen if I used a light weight cotton – cotton Lawn perhaps?
If you are a smaller cup C or less this is a great way to add more curves to that area. If are a big C or more unless you have a very small waist, 8 to 10″ or more in difference stay away from that type of fabric and use the ones I have suggested above.
I am having a hard time with the link to the The Easy Pleated Blouse Called Eve: Any Day, Everywhere. It will not pull it up for me. Please assist since I would love to make this blouse for this summer. Thank you!
I’m just wondering how hard it would be to adjust the sleeve portion. I do not like sleeves that short – I just need a few more inches, not a huge change. Any suggestions?
I wouldn’t touch the sleeves it would change the proportions and not in a nice way. It is my opinion of course, but if you do decide to do it, make sure you use a fabric that drapes well.
Measurements are for the finished garment and you need to allow 8-12 inches of design ease for it to drape well. Take the garment measurements and subtract the ease to get body dimensions. If you like a closer fit (less roomy/ less drape) go for less ease.
Design ease is a matter of personal preference so you can select the size based on how loose you like your clothes.
There is an error on the chart – L and XL both have same bust measurement. XL should probably be 53.5
Hi Betsy, I’ve updated the chart. Thanks for letting me know.
i dont have a printer, do you sell paper patterns?
Hi Frances, unfortunately, we don’t see paper patterns. Maybe you can try printing it at the library or something like that?
Cats – note those are pattern measurements, not body measurements, and then subtract the 8-12” of ease. That leaves a bust body measurement of 43-47”.
Thank you so much!
You are welcome:)
Thank you! This is exactly exACTly what I’ve been searching for!! Love it!
I’m confused, you warn that it is not a plus-size pattern but the pattern itself goes up to XXL with bust and hip at 55 and 56. Not trying to play gotcha, I’m wondering if I’ll have to grade out the pattern to fit.
Cats, I have made both a dress version and a shirt of this and I am about to make more! The reason why the bust and hip are so large is because the pleats add fabric, so if you had a bust or hip that large it would still fit you. But it fits fine without a larger bust or hip size. I wear a belt under the bust on my natural waist line for both (the dress version I made, I prefer), anyways it accentuates the curves. I used lightweight fabric so it drapes lovely. My bust is 45 at the largest and I believe I made the XL (I typically am between XL or XXL). I did add a few inches onto the bottom of the shirt because my curves (needing extra fabric) made the shirt look too short on my taller frame. Next time, I will cut the back on the fold instead of 2 pieces because I did not like how the back seam looked on my dress.
So long story short, you will not need to grade the pattern. Use test fabric and see if you need to make changes on the side seams or shoulder seems (it can show a bit of cleavage if you have some), but it should fit you if you are traditionally a M, make a M, etc.
Thank you so much for the tips!! It’s exactly what I needed and wanted, but don’t need quite that much fabric ease. I am plannin on a rayon challis or crepe so the drape should be good. I didn’t hink about a dress, but the wheels are turning 8-))
Again thank you so much!
If you are using these fabrics the ease will not be a problem at all.
I’ve just made this – my first successful garment in many years! Thanks for sharing the pattern.
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In the right-most photo (white blouse, striped skirt), it looks as though the blouse pleats are sewn down to about 6 inches below the neckline. Am I correct? I like this neater look. Are there any instructions for doing this?
HI Ann, the instructions and pattern are the same, I just used crepe instead of silk.
In step 1 you say to allow 8-12 inches of ease in this blouse – does this mean we need to add the extra inches for the ease or is it already in the marked sizes? I measure – Bust 40 and waist 37 – Thanks for all the patterns and videos I love them.
Hi Kim, the blouse has all the ease that you need and the seam allowance included. Enjoy the blouse.
What is the width of the fabric you are using? I have 2 yards of 36″ wide silk. Would that work for this pattern?
It is 60″ wide. Cheers!
Hi, the pattern looks great and I am looking forward to the finished article, but i am just having a little problem with placing the bias around the key hole at the back. It doesn’t seem to be scooped enough so that at the point of the back central french seam it falls more of a ‘V’ shape than a curve. I have to admit I’ve not used bias before so have bought some to use, but even before placing the bias it looks more V shaped. Any tips?? thank you. kind regards, Ruth
Hi Ruth I think a video is long over due. You need to spread the key hole open so you can sew, try and let me know if you have any problems
I have some tissue weight knit fabric. Would it would with this pattern?
Hi Brittany, I think it could work just check you choose the right size for you. Let me know how you go with it.
Also, in the pattern pdf, it says you need 2 4×22 inch strips of fabric. What are those for? Or are those meant to be for the bias tape and you have to cut on the bias?
Yes those are meant for the bias tape if you wan to make it yourself and have the equipment for it.
Hi Mayra, I am so excited about this blouse. I have made several items from you So Easy Gals that I love. However, I don’t know what I am doing wrong or just plain don’t get when it comes to fit. I have measured myself or my daughter 10 times for every project. I look at the recommended size charts. My bust is 41.5 so I round up to 42 inches. I have tried measuring the pattern to fine the fit… I would take a 21 inches plus the seam allowance. But I know there will be extra fabric due to the pleats but your size chart says a size small is 50 inches…. sorry but now I am not sure what size to make. Help please
Hi Debra, yes I can see the confusion I will try to amend the first opportunity, for your size I would go with Large, it wont look large because of the fabric it needs to drape close to the body. Hope that helps, let me know how it went. Many thanks for your feedback!
Is this style flattering for a large bust? Sometimes pleated styles just look too voluminous to be flattering.
Yes this is true, how large is large? all depends in what part of the world you are, then again if you have an hourglass figure and you mark your waist, I think you can pull it as long as you use a soft fabric that drapes well. You can also reverse the look of the pleats, inside out. The pleats will drape differently done the other way around. Another thing you can do is to top stitch about 3 inches from the top of the pleat, flattening the drape or the fabric on the chest a bit. Let me know if yu decide to make it and how all works out for you.
Kind Regards,
Mayra
What are the seam allowances for this pattern?
The seam allowance for this pattern is 5/8″ or 1.5cm
Lovely pattern, goes together easily. if anyone is concerned that the numbers on the pattern out-line do not correlate to the actual downloaded pages, do not be worried just put them together in numerical order. A quick easy pattern
Yvonl
Love the sizing chart. Makes me feel normal!
This looks like an ideal blouse pattern but how do I know what size to cut out? I have searched your site and also Craftsy to find a size chart with body measurements for the various sizes. Maybe I have just over-looked this.
Hi Alexa, please check the post again for a size chart. Hope that helps.
I too would like to know how to add length to the sleeve. Would I just enlarge the arm hole slightly and then cut the sleeve longer?
Hello Judi, Yes but to know how much more please measure around your arm where the armpit begins and measure the pattern on the size you want plus a bit more for ease. Then, take that measurement of your arm and divided by half, use this measurement to raise the shoulder seam and lower the sleeve curve, just extend those 2 lines as far as you want the sleeve to go. What is important here is to maintain the proportions of the blouse. Long sleeves on this blouse will make the person look larger than it is, try using a darker shade of print than the ones I have used. Do use a fabric that drapes well. Good luck with the project! Please let me know how you go.
VERY PRETTY THANK YOU “SEW” MUCH.
I’ve looked and looked for the sizing 🙁 Can you please direct me to where you have the sizing or can you repeat it here? Thanks
Hi Debra, please check the post again for a size chart. Hope that helps.
Thanks for updating the site with the sizing info!
This is so so kind of you to respond to our wishes and to share the pattern with us.
Thank you very much.
Beautiful! I have a Craft Gossip post scheduled for tomorrow that features your free pattern: http://sewing.craftgossip.com/?p=87732 –Anne
Hi Anne, thanks and kind regards.
Where is the sizing information? I’ve read the entire pattern and don’t see it anywhere.
Hi Tammy, please check the post again for a size chart. Hope that helps.
Hi Lindi, no idea what is happening, I just tryed the link and it worked fine, could you perhaps clear your cache and try again? Hope that helps!
Oh, thank you! I’ve been eyeing a similar blouse with a key hole & bow… I had no idea how to add the bias tape to a key hole closure! Now I can make my own with my own fabric choice!
You are most welcome! Enjoy the project!
Beautiful Blouse! What is the sizing information for this pattern? i.e. XL fits what bust/hip measurements?
Hi Angela, the blouse in XL would be 52″ for the bust and 50″ for the waist. Cheers!
This is a great pattern but I notice there is no indication of size measurements like with other patterns. Did I miss this somewhere? Thanks a lot for making this a free pattern.
Yes I have updated the post to give you an idea of how wide the blouse can be made, it is a generous pattern and very easy to adjust. Hope you make it! Kind Regards,
I love this blouse and it will be an asset to my wardrobe.
Can you tell me how I could possible lengthen or have sleeves?
Absolutly! I am looking forward tonwhat you come up with, do use a slinky fabric!
Thanks for this pattern for nice blouse that can be worn in such a variety.
I love your site.
Kind regards from Germany,
Andrea