Step Four: Adding piece #6
Flip your work upside down. The curved side is up and the long elastic strap is on your right.
Piece #6 will be placed on top of #8. Align with the straight edges and the zipper tape.
Pick up the work by the zipper edge and take this to the sewing machine and sew.
Step Five: Joining pieces #5 and the rest of the work
You will need pieces #5, #4, one of the 14″ zippers and the rest of the work that we assembled above. Remember that pieces #5 and #4 are from the same pattern piece but cut twice.
Place piece #5 print side up flat edge to the top.
Place the work you've done so far on top. Pin together making sure the zipper tape is straight.
Flip your work to make sure it all lines up.
I suggest you zigzag the top to keep the zipper tape straight. Pinning sometimes is not enough to keep layers together.
(I have grown incredibly disappointed with my machine. No matter what I do, the stitches are loose. Don't be surprised if I move to my industrial machine. Hopefully, your machine will be up to the task.)
Place the 14″ zipper right side down. Align with the top edge of the running belt. Change the top thread of your sewing machine to match the zipper. Sew the zipper down.
Change your machine needle to match the fabric of the pouch. Make sure your work looks like the picture below. Pin the fabric all together folding the seam allowance towards, the fabric.
Topstitch from the left to right and from right to left. Stopping both times at the buckle.
Topstitching from left to right use your right side of the zipper foot. Reverse this step from right to left, this means you have to use the left side of the zipper. I do not have a picture of this, but I think you get the picture.
This topstitching will let the zipper lay flat. Check that your seam allowance doesn't show behind the zipper tape. If it does, trim it flush.