Welcome to Episode 10 in the How to Sew A Skirt Sew-along series. The subject for today is: Sewing an Invisible Hem
Our skirt is nearly finished. For me, it's been a marathon of not just sewing, but taking notes, taking photos and blogging too. My new skirt is already finished so I know it's been worth it! I'm using the example of the skirt in the middle here during our Sew A Skirt series.
Sewing an Invisible Hem
When it comes to hemming the skirt there are SO many options. You can simply turn up the hem once, press then turn up again, and sew around with a regular straight stitch.
Or you could do a fancy hem finish with a hemming tape -from Stitch in my side.
Or you could turn and hand stitch – from Megan Neilsen.
You can try any of these options, or if you fancy, how about having a go at an Invisible Seam, sometimes called a Blind Hem? An invisible seam isn't completely invisible – depending on the fabric and thread used, you might still see some regular tiny stitches. And in a patterned fabric like mine, you cannot use a thread that matches all parts of the pattern, so some stitches will show. But it does give a very nice result and I recommend having a try at this.
I'm working on a leftover piece of fabric from my skirt so that I can show you the process using a bright pink thread to make the stitches easier to see. If you haven't done this type of hem before, then do practice before trying it out on your skirt.
The preparation of the hemline is important for this type of seam. Once you have tried on your skirt and decided where you want the finished hemline to be, do measure this and mark it.
- First measure up 1/4 inch all the way around your fabric and press the seam to the wrong side.
- Then fold the fabric inside again until your skirt is the correct length. Measure how much you have turned and turn this same amount all the way around to get an even hemline. Using a sliding hem gauge will help.
- Once everything is pressed, you have to fold your entire hemline back to the outside of the skirt, just leaving a small area of the first turn visible. This is where your stitching will go.
- Select the invisible hem stitch from your sewing machine – consult your manual if you need to for how to set up the width of your stitch and adjust it if necessary.
- If you have a Blind Hem Foot, great. If not, you may still be able to do this with a regular machine foot if you line up the fabric carefully and stitch slowly.
- Take your fabric to the machine and line up as shown….
- When you sew, most of the stitches will be on the right hand side in the folded part of the hem fabric, and when the needle swings to the left, it should just catch the fabric to leave a tiny stitch.
- Practice on spare fabric first to get your stitch width settings correct.
- Once sewn, the hem should look like this from the inside…
- And like this on the outside of the hemline. Remember I am using the bright pink thread to show you the tiny stitches.
- If you are happy with your practice, now go on and do the same to the hemline of your skirt. Press when you are done.
- If you don't have the right presser foot, or don't feel confident – that's OK, just try one of the other more simple hemline finishes instead – try here, here or the links above.
Our next step
A quick recap of what we have completed so far in case you have missed a step and need to review :
- Overview, tools and equipment and choosing your fabric
- Drafting your custom fit pattern, and all about ease and seam allowances
- Cutting your fabric and pattern matching
- Marking darts perfectly
- Sewing darts perfectly
- All about zipper feet
- Sewing an invisible zipper
- Lining a skirt – part 1
- Lining a skirt – part 2, the zipper
- Sewing the hemline
Join me soon for the next step in our Sew A Skirt series – Finishing and series round up