This is the trendy teddy bear jacket pattern. I thought it would be great to end the year with fashionable comfort wear which is perfect for cold weather and fun family nights.
2020 has been a year of a great many changes in our life as a family. We have started a couple of new projects both on and off the site, moved from an apartment to a house, moved continents, and climbed the highest mountain in Africa.
We just finished a bitterly cold winter and yet there was no snow on the ground. The house we live in is not prepared for temperatures below 50 degrees (10 C), in fact, many days it was colder in the house than it was outside. Winter in the southern hemisphere usually does not last as long as the north and there is often no snow in the ground (at least in this latitude) hence the houses are not built for long, cold winters. Dressing in layers indoors becomes a must both to keep warm and also to save some money in heating a large house.
I wrote about how we climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania but I have not shared with you the clothes that I wore during that trip. Every piece of clothing I carried needed to be thought out carefully. I was able to make a couple of lightweight yet warm clothing items with this teddy bear jacket pattern that I took on the climb. I wore this jacket for sleeping and early in the morning at breakfast before the climb. It became my third layer and I don't know if I would have survived without it.
The jacket has two pockets included with the pattern (although I did not add them to mine). The pockets are large enough for a big phone. This jacket has snaps on the front but you can add buttons to it if you want.
There is an added hood to keep the head protected from the wind.
It has a high low hem in case you want to hide your behind or wear the jacket with winter leggings.
This project is for confident beginners who are familiar with basic garment construction such as facing, snap direction and sewing techniques like topstitching.
- 1 3/4 yards of teddy bear fabric or any self-lined pile fabric
- 8 metal snaps
- 2 grommets
- thread to match
- 1 yard of cord for the hood
- a piece of knitted fusible interfacing the length/width of your facing.
- Kam tool
- Jersey needle or universal needle size 80
- Overlocker ideal but not essential
Fabric Suggestions from Fabric.com
How To Download And Print Your Teddy Bear Jacket Pattern
Please use the latest version of Adobe Reader. It is free and the only program you will need to print this pattern. Use Landscape mode and Actual Size. Do not scale the pattern. Notice there are two blank pages at the right lower hand corner to keep the pattern square. These pages will come out blank.
How To Sew Your Teddy Bear J
The first thing you need to do is to retrace the front facing. You will need this piece when it is time to attach the snaps. Cut a bias strip of 1 3/8″ X the size of the opening of the hood. These measurements will depend on the size you have chosen. The sleeve's ribbing is also not included and you will need to cut that according to your size.
We will start sewing the sleeves to the back and the front pieces, attaching the hood and the sleeves. Finally, we will hem, attaching the snaps and sewing the ribbing to the sleeves. We will not be attaching the pockets in this tutorial, I will cover that in a separate tutorial. I will be teaching you a new kind of pocket making there.
Sewing The Front To The Back
Attach both front pieces to the back. Use the overlocker stitch of your sewing machine if you have one otherwise a large 3 step zigzag will also work.
Sewing The Dart In The Sleeve
If you have been following this blog for a while you will notice that I often use a dart on this type of sleeve. This sleeve is known as a raglan sleeve. Most of the time it is drafted in two pieces with a seam at the top of the arm. To avoid having to sew two pieces together that can be confusing to a beginner sewer, I draft the pattern with a dart on the top of the sleeve at the shoulder.
Sew the dart, tapering it by extending the seam around 3/8″ to 1/2″ longer than the pattern. This is to avoid a bubble forming at the shoulder.
Sewing The Sleeve To The Back And The Front Of The J
You will notice when you open your sleeve after sewing the dart that one side is higher than the other at the top of the sleeve. The higher side will correspond to back side of your teddy bear jacket pattern while the lower side will be the front.
Sew the higher side to the back of your teddy jacket at the seam allowance that you have chosen, in my
Attach the front side of the jacket to the other side of the sleeves.
Attaching The H
Place the hood sides together and sew at your chosen seam allowance. Finish the seam using your overlocker with a zigzag stitch or turning the seam allowance to the side and top stitching which is what I have done in mine. The facing of the hood will have a raw edge resembling fur.
Attach the grommet. If you need help on how to attach a grommet refer to this tutorial.
The next step will be to trace the facing of the hood. You can either trace this facing in two pieces or if you have enough fabric you can trace it in one piece. I have traced and cut two pieces and sewn them together. Zigzag or overlock the raw edge.
Sew the facing around the opening of the hood. This facing is 1 3/8″ wide and as long as the hood opening according to the size you have chosen.
Sew the facing at your chosen seam allowance, turn and sew the raw edge doan making a channel for the cord.
Pin the center seam of the hood to the center of the back piece of the jacket. Sew.
Tracing And Sewing The Facing
Trace the facing using your pattern.
Cut two facings of fabric and knitted interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing. Pin them right sides together to each front piece of the jacket. Topstitch the facing so it lays flat when you turn it inside out.
Clip the corners to make a 90 degree corner but do not cut too close to the seam. Add the cotton tape to the seam allowance.
Notice that the cotton tape is pinned under the seam allowance, this is going to allow you to hide the raw seam allowance. To avoid this step, all you have to do is to use your overlocker and finish the seam this way. But the main purpose of sewing a tape is to help the jacket keep its shape and not over stretch at the shoulder seams. Your garment will last longer and look professionally made.
Turn the facing right side out and turn the tape down to top stitch.
We are going to leave it here for now because we need to sew the sides of the jacket before we can proceed.
Sewing The Sides Of The Jacket
Sew the sides of the jacket starting from the hem all the way to the wrist. Finish the seam by using a zigzag, or an overlocker
Hemming The Jacket
Use your overlocker or zigzag to finish the hem, then turn the hem 1 3/8″. I suggest using an invisible stitch at this point. See the linked post if you need help with this.
Unfortunately, I didn't use an invisible stitch so I am showing you in my photos how it looks with a normal stitch.
Adding The cuffs To The Sleeves
You can purchase ribbing to add to the sleeves instead of making the cuffs if you have access to it. I do not, so I have to make my own using the same fabric. If your fabric has a
In this step you will need to do a bit of pattern making. Try the hood on and decide how much more length you want and need on your sleeves and multiply this measurement times two plus the seam allowance.
Measure the width of the sleeve at the wrist level add seam allowance to that measurement. Make sure you are working with the jacket wrong side out.
Fold the cuff right side out and insert it to the sleeve. Sew and finish the edge. In case you are wondering yes the seam allowance will be visible but you will fold the cuff up and the seam will not show anymore.
Adding The Snap And Cord
On this last step you have the choice to either make button holes, sew in snaps or press snaps. I am going for what I have in my stash which are press snaps. If you need reminder on how to attach press snaps here is a tutorial to guide through the process. https://so-sew-easy.com/how-to-apply-snap-fasteners-quick-guide/
I have to say this jacket has been my absolute favorite for the cold months in the south, I practically lived in it for nearly 5 months!
After using the jacket for so long I recommend using a button hole instead of a press snap. I found that one of the press snap with time fell off. The hole around the snap became looser and the snap fell leaving a large hole. The problem is that the fabric is a pile fabric and there is no way to add an interfacing to it. If you insist on adding a press snap my suggestion would be to use a no-fray liquid or fabric glue to the hole before you place the snap.
Do you agree with this solution? Do you have any other suggestions? Kindly leave them on the comments below. In the meantime keep warm and happy sewing!
P.S. Do add the cord to the hood using a safety pin, a bodkin, or a small paper clip.