Step Three: Attaching the ribbing
Fitting Tip: try the hoodie on and decide how long you want it. Two inches of ribbing is the norm but 3″ (7.5cm) is fine as well if you want the hoodie to cover your bum a bit more.
The ribbing is not provided as a pattern and this is done to save you paper. Simply measure the hem of the hoodie minus 2 ” or 4 ” (5cm x 10cm) depending on how much volume you want around your waist and the elasticity content of your fabric. Mine has very little recovery, so I will be taking out 2″ (5cm). In my case, I am making a rectangle that is 37 ” x 4 ” (94 cm x 12 cm).
Fold the ribbing in half and place a pin to mark the middle. Pin the middle of the ribbing to the middle back of the hoodie. Then stretch the ribbing while you sew. Sew at 3/8″ using your serger or overlocker. Topstitch the seam allowance by folding upwards or simply iron.
Tracing the ribbing for the sleeves
Measure the sleeves minus 2″ x 6 3/4″. Right Sides together, sew the 6 3/4″ side at 3/8″. Turn right side out and fold.Insert the cuff on the sleeve aligning the seam of the cuff ribbing to that of the sleeve. Pin in place then sew at 3/8″. Use your serger if you have one or simply zigzag the seam, then press.
Step Four: Attaching the hood, facing and zipper all at once
Yes, you read right, I will show you how the people in the sewing factories do it. It's very simple really and saves tons of times. All you need is courage and patience and a bunch of pins, however, people in the factories do not use pins.
This is, of course, optional and below are the steps to follow if you want to sew each item one at a time:
- Pin the hood to the collar area and sew
- Pin the zipper and sew
- Pin the facing (trace the facing from the pattern hoodie) and sew
Here are the steps if you're brave and want to sew it all at once:
1.Pin the hood
We will start by pinning the hood to the jacket. Mark the 3/8″ as shown in the picture below. Do this on both sides. The hood can not go beyond this point because that is where the zipper will go.
Find the middle seam of the hood and align it with the middle of the back piece. Pin from the center of the hood to the middle of the back then work your way to the 3/8″ mark you made previously.
Notice the 3/8″ hanging at the end. We need this to attach the zipper.
2. Pin the zipper
Lay the jacket right side out.
Separate the zipper, pin the left side of the zipper up side down to the right side of the hoodie. You will know you are doing it right when the teeth of the zipper are on the left side from the edge.Pin the right side of the zipper on the left of the hoodie. The pull of the zipper will be upside down. Make sure the zipper is at least 1/8″ from the hem.