3. Trace and Pin the facing
It is time to pin the facing, but before we do that we need to trace the facing from the hoodie pattern. Add the length of the ribbing plus 1/2″. This length is enough to cover the whole front of the hoodie.
Add 3 3/4″ to the bottom of the facing pattern. Do not forget this. I did and I had to add a piece after I cut the fabric. The red rectangle shows where you have to lengthen plus 1/2″.Take your facing and using your serger or overlocker neaten the edge with the curve and the top end of the facing.Tip: If you do not have a serger or overlocker, simply zigzag the edge then fold just the zigzag part and stay stitch. That should give you a really clean finish. Save this technique for woven fabrics. It works wonders.
I have forgotten my own advice and did not to add the extra length to the pattern, so I cut the fabric short. I had to sew the extra piece of fabric. It will not be noticed and will look like is part of the ribbing.
Pin the facing right side down on top of the zipper. Notice the extra 1/2″ at the end. We will need this to hide the raw edge. Change your foot to a zipper foot. We are going to make one continues stitching line. Starting one side and ending at the other.
When you get to the top corner of the facing stop at 3/8″ from the edge and pivot the hoodie to make a perfect corner.
Leave your needle down and turn the fabric to the right.
Continue sewing the curve side of the facing and the hood.
After sewing, trim the corner to allow the fabric in the corner to lie flat when turned inside out.
Step Six: Adding pockets (optional) and cotton tape
Lay the hoodie zipper side up and open it to expose the facing. We are going to attach a cotton tape to reinforce the stitches and prevent the hoodie from stretching.
Lift the facing to expose the seam allowance and pin the tape. Lower the facing and start sewing following the seam that is attaching the hood to the jacket. Remember to lift the facing and place the tape under the facing to continue sewing. Trim the seam allowance enough to be able to hide it under the tape. Sew the tape down very close to the edge of the tape. This is the perfect opportunity to sew a custom label if you have one.
Optional step: Adding the pockets
This step is optional. Some people like pockets in their hoodies while some do not care for them. Up to you.
Cut two side of the pocket on the fashion fabric and two on a contrasting fabric.
Sew all the edges at 1/4″. Leave the little side open to turn the pocket. See the yellow arrow. Trim the corners only about 1/8″ so they lie down. The seam allowance is small enough and there is no need for trimming it. Turn the pocket right side out and make a topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.
On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket right side down and sew the small side at 3/8″. Flip the pocket and sew very close to the edge following the ribbing stitching and the zipper.
Step Seven: Finishing the hoodie.
Remember the 1/2″ bit that is left hanging from the facing? Turn the extra bit up and sew by hand using a needle and thread. Using your zipper foot, topstitch on either side of the zipper 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric to make sure the facing will never get in the way of the zipper.
Lastly, take the cord and pass it through the grommet and the casing using the bobby pin. I am using a nylon cord and it frays a lot so I will make a knot and burn the end a bit to seal the threads.
That's it folks! The first item on our “Sew Fit” collection is done. I would like to play with a combination of fabrics for a more hip look. This is a perfect project to learn new skills on your sewing journey and it makes a really great present for anyone especially since the pattern is unisex.
I hope you enjoy this hoodie pattern and tutorial. As for me, I am off to skip some rope. Until next time!