The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

3. Trace and Pin the facing

It is time to pin the facing, but before we do that we need to trace the facing from the hoodie pattern.  Add the length of the ribbing plus 1/2″.  This length is enough to cover the whole front of the hoodie.

Add 3 3/4″ to the bottom of the facing pattern.  Do not forget this.  I did and I had to add a piece after I cut the fabric.  The red rectangle shows where you have to lengthen plus 1/2″.Take your facing and using your serger or overlocker neaten the edge with the curve and the top end of the facing.Tip: If you do not have a serger or overlocker, simply zigzag the edge then fold just the zigzag part and stay stitch.  That should give you a really clean finish.  Save this technique for woven fabrics.  It works wonders.

I have forgotten my own advice and did not to add the extra length to the pattern, so I cut the fabric short.  I had to sew the extra piece of fabric. It will not be noticed and will look like is part of the ribbing.

Pin the facing right side down on top of the zipper.  Notice the extra 1/2″ at the end.  We will need this to hide the raw edge. Change your foot to a zipper foot.  We are going to make one continues stitching line.  Starting one side and ending at the other.

When you get to the top corner of the facing stop at 3/8″ from the edge and pivot the hoodie to make a perfect corner.

Leave your needle down and turn the fabric to the right.

Continue sewing the curve side of the facing and the hood.

After sewing, trim the corner to allow the fabric in the corner to lie flat when turned inside out.

Step Six:  Adding pockets (optional) and cotton tape

Lay the hoodie zipper side up and open it to expose the facing.  We are going to attach a cotton tape to reinforce the stitches and prevent the hoodie from stretching.

Lift the facing to expose the seam allowance and pin the tape. Lower the facing and start sewing following the seam that is attaching the hood to the jacket. Remember to lift the facing and place the tape under the facing to continue sewing.  Trim the seam allowance enough to be able to hide it under the tape. Sew the tape down very close to the edge of the tape.  This is the perfect opportunity to sew a custom label if you have one.

Optional step:  Adding the pockets

This step is optional. Some people like pockets in their hoodies while some do not care for them.  Up to you.

Cut two side of the pocket on the fashion fabric and two on a contrasting fabric.

Sew all the edges at 1/4″.  Leave the little side open to turn the pocket.  See the yellow arrow.  Trim the corners only about 1/8″ so they lie down.  The seam allowance is small enough and there is no need for trimming it.  Turn the pocket right side out and make a topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.

On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket right side down and sew the small side at 3/8″.  Flip the pocket and sew very close to the edge following the ribbing stitching and the zipper.

Step Seven: Finishing the hoodie.

Remember the 1/2″ bit that is left hanging from the facing?  Turn the extra bit up and sew by hand using a needle and thread. Using your zipper foot, topstitch on either side of the zipper 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric to make sure the facing will never get in the way of the zipper.

Lastly, take the cord and pass it through the grommet and the casing using the bobby pin.  I am using a nylon cord and it frays a lot so I will make a knot and burn the end a bit to seal the threads.

That's it folks! The first item on our “Sew Fit” collection is done.  I would like to play with a combination of fabrics for a more hip look. This is a perfect project to learn new skills on your sewing journey and it makes a really great present for anyone especially since the pattern is unisex.

I hope you enjoy this hoodie pattern and tutorial.  As for me, I am off to skip some rope.  Until next time!

hoodie pattern

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254 Responses to The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

  1. Kevin McPhee says:

    Hi, I am making one for myself and I am a guy. Should I use my chest size to determine my size? Thanks!!

  2. Myrthe says:

    I’m going to make this hoodie and the ‘Sweatpants That Are Not Just For Sweating’ (and indeed, I’m going tho wear them when I’m working from home. So probably won’t be sweating in them :P)
    But I feel like the measurements are a bit off? Because the inches for the chest are the same as for the hips. Size 24 is 52″ chest and hips for example.
    And if I look at size 24 with the ‘sweatpants’ the hips can be 61″

    Could you help finding the right size for me please? My hips are 54″ waist 41″ and chest 47″

    Thanks! Also for the pattern 🙂

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Hi Myrthe, when choosing a size for a top always go with the chest measurement, as a rule. I would use size 20, the best thing to do is to do a mock up in a cheap fabric to test the fitting and go from there. I know it is a lot of work but at the end you will have a better fitted garment.

  3. Mette says:

    Great pattern! Thanks for all your hard work 🙏💐

  4. Ina Postma says:

    I made me one from Alpen Fleece. Very nice! Next time I’ll cut the the facing a bit wider at the front, but thanks for this lovely free pattern!! “^”

  5. Adamantane says:

    Thank you for a great pattern, Mayra! I just have one question. As this is a fitted hoodie, what amount of stretch is this pattern drafted for? I am planning to make it from french terry with a slight 2 way stretch, is this okay or should I find a 4 way stretch fabric?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Great question! I used a 4 way stretch knit block to make the pattern, so I strongly advice to use a four way double knit or jersey to make this hoodie. Do let me know how it turns, if you use Instagram tagging soseweasyoficial or using #soseweasyofficial and I will find you and follow you. Kind Regards,

  6. Karen Korby says:

    Really LOVE the fabric you chose in the hoodie you are demonstrating. Can you advise where to find something with all those great abstract design elements?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Hi Karen, I bought this fabric in A store called Spotlight.com.au in Sydney, Australia it was a while back so i do not know if they still cary it.

  7. Jean DeNio says:

    I loaded the pattern, but will habe to send it to my sister’s laptop to print it because Kindle is not compatible with our printer. (Gah! Mega-irritating!)

    Anyway, are the directions attached to the.pattern when it’s printed, or do I need to.come back to this page? As a beginning sewist, I ‘d like to have the easiest access possible to the instructions!

    Thanks!

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      yes you need to comeback for the instructions for free, and the pattern is free, that makes it convenient for both of us, don’t you agree?

      • Jean DeNio says:

        lol Just needed to make sure! Now to get the fabric: I want to see and feel before I buy, and it’s a long way to a Walmart or Joanne’s, over 60 miles one way. (That’s what we get for living in the boonies!)

        I’m looking forward to making this!

        • Mayra Cecilia says:

          Yes that is far,I have to go around 18 miles, but now with this lockdown i have no choice but to use whatever I have at hand.

  8. Gerrie Dur says:

    Thank you for making many of your patterns and tutorials available for free. You’re very generous!
    I’ve had the Hoodie pattern for a long time. I’m just now finding the courage to make it. Can you provide the body measurements it was designed to fit (size 16)? I found the finished measurements. I was hoping to adjust it to fit my more unusual body measurements.
    Thanks!

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Sorry Gerry, Use size 16 for size 16. I provided the finished measurements so you can get a more accurate fitting. Allow at least 2 inches of ease for the person who will be wearing the hoodie.

  9. Kathryn Hilton says:

    It seems I am unable to download the pattern now because blueprint is no longer in business. Is there another way to get the pattern?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      I will move all my patterns to PayHip, Ko.Fi and Etsy but this will take time since I have over 300 free patterns!

  10. Esmori says:

    I would like to try this pattern but it is not available for download. I am being directed to a Bluprint site that does not allow downloads any more.
    Any help as to where I can download the pattern?

  11. Mrs susan sheehan says:

    Just finished making the hoodie and it looks fantastic. Thank you for the pattern.

  12. Lahni says:

    Does the seam allowance need to be added to every piece, including pockets/hood? And all sides?

  13. Bob says:

    Hi again, no need to respond to my previous question. I found the answer on the first page of the post ^^

  14. Bob says:

    Hi ! Thx for this pattern and the instructions ! I’m planning to sew this hoodie in a few days but i’m confused with the sizes. Are they US or Uk sizes ? I have to find a match with the french sizes ^^
    Thx !

    • Wietske Meurs Van says:

      Thank you so much for this!! I am making it first from a withite sheet. Very handy tuturiol: good shown how every step works (eventhough sometimes google translation not always means what you mean 😁 I am in the Netherlands)..good job 👏👍👍

  15. Jenni says:

    Thank you for sharing! Would this be considered a unisex pattern? Would it be ok for a man?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      yes, it is, but please observe this is a narrower fit if you are looking for more room check the velvet embroidered hoodie.

  16. Chloé says:

    Hi Mayra, nice from you to put this pattern on free! thnx!
    it save me a lot of time that this pattern is already made.
    I have one question about the sewing marge… is it already included in your patter, so yes how much for each part?
    Or should we draw it ?

    thank you!

  17. Sam says:

    Hi Mayra, thanks for the pattern, have done all the downloads and plan to tackle it over the next couple of weeks. Am i missing a page or do you go from step 4 (and a few sub steps) to step 6….? tx Sam

  18. seb black says:

    what part is the facing?

  19. Anna-Maria says:

    Hey, I’m in the middle of sewing the parts together and noticed that my hood appears to be slightly to small for the rest of the hoodie? I cut the size 10 and now I’ve pinned the hood to the body and there are a few centimeters left (it looks like the body is too big but it fits me) and it is more than the space needed for the zipper. Do you have any ideas how to fix this apart from sewing a whole new hood? (and even when, which size should I pick to go smoothly with my size 10 hoodie-body?)
    Greetings from Austria

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Anna-Maria, this should not happened and I have not have this problem with anyone before, I used size 10 to make the sample that is on the mannequin. Can you tell me first if you had any problem taping the pattern together? how much is a few centimetres? Did the fabric stretched while you were sewing? Can you take a few pictures with your phone and send me an email to mayra@so-sew-easy.com also it would help me if you tell me where did you downloaded the pattern from? Kind Regards,

  20. desshou says:

    I don’t want to sound ungrateful or anything, but is there any other way to download the pattern besides Bluprint? Since joining that website isn’t free…
    Your hoodie is lovely, love the chosen fabrics!

  21. Ruth Marshall says:

    How do we know how much fabric to buy, please? I’m a UK size 14, and will be buying specifically for this project
    Thanks

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      HI Ruth, print the pattern you want and lay it on the floor or a large table as if you were going to cut, mind the grainline then measure how much more you need. Kind Regards, Mayra

  22. Terry Scanes says:

    would love the pattern to be without a zip and pockets that join in the front

  23. Hanna George says:

    it is good for beginners thank you

  24. Sian says:

    When you say to add the seam allowance to the pattern, does that mean to cut the fabric using the pattern, or adding an extra border of fabric for the seam allowance?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      The letter one, add extra around the pattern for the seam allowance either on the paper or on the fabric.

      • periwinklesue says:

        So as I read the instructions, we should add 3/8″ for all of the seams, but 1/4″ for the pockets? (Excited to try this. Getting all of my prep work done!)

  25. Patt Hagge says:

    Oh I’m so glad to see this zipper directions. I had drafted my own hoodie from my sloper. It fits fine and is essentially the same as yours except for the zipper application. I hadn’t put my zip in yet so now will cut off the facing I already have applied (via serger) and cut a new larger one and apply my zipper your way. Thanks..

  26. Ashleigh AJ says:

    Just wondering if this pattern would work with Cotton Lycra?

  27. Debbie McGee says:

    I am having a problem with the pockets, the lining is so much smaller, what to do? Please help, I am sooo close to finished.

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Debbie, why would the lining be much smaller when it is the same piece of the pattern for both outlayer and lining?

  28. p van dixhoorn says:

    I can’t download the pattern. Via the link, pattern download or direct via bluprint.

  29. hana says:

    thanks I cant wait to try

  30. Krystyne King says:

    I love your patterns and instructions.Thank you so much. I would love to source the fabric you used. It is so classy with the red. Would you happen to remember the name or where you got it? Thank you.

  31. geestaga says:

    Great project,,,, cant find where to download the pattern

  32. Cheryl Masters says:

    Well, I thought I was confused. Now I KNOW I’m confused. What is the simplest way to download one of your patterns?

  33. Evie says:

    Thank you for the pattern. I’ve downloaded it and hope to get to it soon. Who doesn’t need another hoodie? I’ll be the last one to say I have too many hoodies.

  34. Kate Green says:

    Can I skip the grommet and just use my sewing machine to make a button hole where the grommet would go? My machine has a button hole attachment that will make uniform sized button holes (using a button as a guide for sizing), so I’m thinking a shirt button would work in this instance (or a button large enough to accomodate the drawstring one chooses to use)..

    Same concept (a bound hole for the drawstring ties) but it would save me a bit of discomfort in my wrists (I’ve got carpal tunnel issues) using the Kam tool.

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Yes, you can use a buttonhole just make sure you make it on one side only so you can pass the cord. Great idea by the way 🙂

  35. Rhonda Allen says:

    Every time I go to next page, select printfriendly, it goes right back to page 1. I click on next page number and it wants to delete it.

  36. nathalie says:

    hello,
    Can you tell me if, like for the pattern, it exists a pdf file with all instructions we can find here ? thanks for your reply

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      HI Natalie, I need to find another place where to do that, since I used to used the now defunct Craftsy. As soon as I find a way to share the PDF file I will let you know. For now the instructions are still free on the site.

      • Susan says:

        How about Google Docs or Drop Box

      • BubbeCraft says:

        Craftsy is not defunct — it has just been rebranded as Bluprint.com. I had no problem downloading your pattern PDF as I was redirected to Bluprint.com. You might want to consider just putting the directions in with the pattern pieces.

        On the other hand, I found it’s just as easy (most times) to convert your HTML pages to PDF using a browser extension for that purpose. My preference is for using “Print Friendly” (https://www.printfriendly.com/), but there are many out there. I have found there are several choices for the 3 browsers I use (Firefox, Chrome, Opera).

      • Selena says:

        This pattern is still available on the Bluprint site here: https://shop.mybluprint.com/sewing/patterns/the-hoodie/47618
        I’m not sure if you have to have a Bluprint membership in order to purchase but the patterns still exist. I had to search patterns to pull up the pattern page. Hope this helps!

      • barbiq5 says:

        The instructions are free on the website, but can we download them? I have numerous patterns, but no instructions. It would be so nice to have available to download all in one place.

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