The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

3. Trace and Pin the facing

It is time to pin the facing, but before we do that we need to trace the facing from the hoodie pattern.  Add the length of the ribbing plus 1/2″.  This length is enough to cover the whole front of the hoodie.

Add 3 3/4″ to the bottom of the facing pattern.  Do not forget this.  I did and I had to add a piece after I cut the fabric.  The red rectangle shows where you have to lengthen plus 1/2″.Take your facing and using your serger or overlocker neaten the edge with the curve and the top end of the facing.Tip: If you do not have a serger or overlocker, simply zigzag the edge then fold just the zigzag part and stay stitch.  That should give you a really clean finish.  Save this technique for woven fabrics.  It works wonders.

I have forgotten my own advice and did not to add the extra length to the pattern, so I cut the fabric short.  I had to sew the extra piece of fabric. It will not be noticed and will look like is part of the ribbing.

Pin the facing right side down on top of the zipper.  Notice the extra 1/2″ at the end.  We will need this to hide the raw edge. Change your foot to a zipper foot.  We are going to make one continues stitching line.  Starting one side and ending at the other.

When you get to the top corner of the facing stop at 3/8″ from the edge and pivot the hoodie to make a perfect corner.

Leave your needle down and turn the fabric to the right.

Continue sewing the curve side of the facing and the hood.

After sewing, trim the corner to allow the fabric in the corner to lie flat when turned inside out.

Step Six:  Adding pockets (optional) and cotton tape

Lay the hoodie zipper side up and open it to expose the facing.  We are going to attach a cotton tape to reinforce the stitches and prevent the hoodie from stretching.

Lift the facing to expose the seam allowance and pin the tape. Lower the facing and start sewing following the seam that is attaching the hood to the jacket. Remember to lift the facing and place the tape under the facing to continue sewing.  Trim the seam allowance enough to be able to hide it under the tape. Sew the tape down very close to the edge of the tape.  This is the perfect opportunity to sew a custom label if you have one.

Optional step:  Adding the pockets

This step is optional. Some people like pockets in their hoodies while some do not care for them.  Up to you.

Cut two side of the pocket on the fashion fabric and two on a contrasting fabric.

Sew all the edges at 1/4″.  Leave the little side open to turn the pocket.  See the yellow arrow.  Trim the corners only about 1/8″ so they lie down.  The seam allowance is small enough and there is no need for trimming it.  Turn the pocket right side out and make a topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.

On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket right side down and sew the small side at 3/8″.  Flip the pocket and sew very close to the edge following the ribbing stitching and the zipper.

Step Seven: Finishing the hoodie.

Remember the 1/2″ bit that is left hanging from the facing?  Turn the extra bit up and sew by hand using a needle and thread. Using your zipper foot, topstitch on either side of the zipper 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric to make sure the facing will never get in the way of the zipper.

Lastly, take the cord and pass it through the grommet and the casing using the bobby pin.  I am using a nylon cord and it frays a lot so I will make a knot and burn the end a bit to seal the threads.

That's it folks! The first item on our “Sew Fit” collection is done.  I would like to play with a combination of fabrics for a more hip look. This is a perfect project to learn new skills on your sewing journey and it makes a really great present for anyone especially since the pattern is unisex.

I hope you enjoy this hoodie pattern and tutorial.  As for me, I am off to skip some rope.  Until next time!

hoodie pattern

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196 Responses to The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

  1. Ashleigh AJ says:

    Just wondering if this pattern would work with Cotton Lycra?

  2. Debbie McGee says:

    I am having a problem with the pockets, the lining is so much smaller, what to do? Please help, I am sooo close to finished.

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Debbie, why would the lining be much smaller when it is the same piece of the pattern for both outlayer and lining?

  3. p van dixhoorn says:

    I can’t download the pattern. Via the link, pattern download or direct via bluprint.

  4. hana says:

    thanks I cant wait to try

  5. Krystyne King says:

    I love your patterns and instructions.Thank you so much. I would love to source the fabric you used. It is so classy with the red. Would you happen to remember the name or where you got it? Thank you.

  6. geestaga says:

    Great project,,,, cant find where to download the pattern

  7. Cheryl Masters says:

    Well, I thought I was confused. Now I KNOW I’m confused. What is the simplest way to download one of your patterns?

  8. Evie says:

    Thank you for the pattern. I’ve downloaded it and hope to get to it soon. Who doesn’t need another hoodie? I’ll be the last one to say I have too many hoodies.

  9. Kate Green says:

    Can I skip the grommet and just use my sewing machine to make a button hole where the grommet would go? My machine has a button hole attachment that will make uniform sized button holes (using a button as a guide for sizing), so I’m thinking a shirt button would work in this instance (or a button large enough to accomodate the drawstring one chooses to use)..

    Same concept (a bound hole for the drawstring ties) but it would save me a bit of discomfort in my wrists (I’ve got carpal tunnel issues) using the Kam tool.

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Yes, you can use a buttonhole just make sure you make it on one side only so you can pass the cord. Great idea by the way šŸ™‚

  10. Rhonda Allen says:

    Every time I go to next page, select printfriendly, it goes right back to page 1. I click on next page number and it wants to delete it.

  11. nathalie says:

    Can you tell me if, like for the pattern, it exists a pdf file with all instructions we can find here ? thanks for your reply

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      HI Natalie, I need to find another place where to do that, since I used to used the now defunct Craftsy. As soon as I find a way to share the PDF file I will let you know. For now the instructions are still free on the site.

      • Susan says:

        How about Google Docs or Drop Box

      • BubbeCraft says:

        Craftsy is not defunct — it has just been rebranded as I had no problem downloading your pattern PDF as I was redirected to You might want to consider just putting the directions in with the pattern pieces.

        On the other hand, I found it’s just as easy (most times) to convert your HTML pages to PDF using a browser extension for that purpose. My preference is for using “Print Friendly” (, but there are many out there. I have found there are several choices for the 3 browsers I use (Firefox, Chrome, Opera).

      • Selena says:

        This pattern is still available on the Bluprint site here:
        Iā€™m not sure if you have to have a Bluprint membership in order to purchase but the patterns still exist. I had to search patterns to pull up the pattern page. Hope this helps!

      • barbiq5 says:

        The instructions are free on the website, but can we download them? I have numerous patterns, but no instructions. It would be so nice to have available to download all in one place.

What do you think?