The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

3. Trace and Pin the facing

It is time to pin the facing, but before we do that we need to trace the facing from the hoodie pattern.  Add the length of the ribbing plus 1/2″.  This length is enough to cover the whole front of the hoodie.

Add 3 3/4″ to the bottom of the facing pattern.  Do not forget this.  I did and I had to add a piece after I cut the fabric.  The red rectangle shows where you have to lengthen plus 1/2″.Take your facing and using your serger or overlocker neaten the edge with the curve and the top end of the facing.Tip: If you do not have a serger or overlocker, simply zigzag the edge then fold just the zigzag part and stay stitch.  That should give you a really clean finish.  Save this technique for woven fabrics.  It works wonders.

I have forgotten my own advice and did not to add the extra length to the pattern, so I cut the fabric short.  I had to sew the extra piece of fabric. It will not be noticed and will look like is part of the ribbing.

Pin the facing right side down on top of the zipper.  Notice the extra 1/2″ at the end.  We will need this to hide the raw edge. Change your foot to a zipper foot.  We are going to make one continues stitching line.  Starting one side and ending at the other.


When you get to the top corner of the facing stop at 3/8″ from the edge and pivot the hoodie to make a perfect corner.

Leave your needle down and turn the fabric to the right.

Continue sewing the curve side of the facing and the hood.

After sewing, trim the corner to allow the fabric in the corner to lie flat when turned inside out.

Step Six:  Adding pockets (optional) and cotton tape

Lay the hoodie zipper side up and open it to expose the facing.  We are going to attach a cotton tape to reinforce the stitches and prevent the hoodie from stretching.

Lift the facing to expose the seam allowance and pin the tape. Lower the facing and start sewing following the seam that is attaching the hood to the jacket. Remember to lift the facing and place the tape under the facing to continue sewing.  Trim the seam allowance enough to be able to hide it under the tape. Sew the tape down very close to the edge of the tape.  This is the perfect opportunity to sew a custom label if you have one.

Optional step:  Adding the pockets

This step is optional. Some people like pockets in their hoodies while some do not care for them.  Up to you.

Cut two side of the pocket on the fashion fabric and two on a contrasting fabric.

Sew all the edges at 1/4″.  Leave the little side open to turn the pocket.  See the yellow arrow.  Trim the corners only about 1/8″ so they lie down.  The seam allowance is small enough and there is no need for trimming it.  Turn the pocket right side out and make a topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.

On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket right side down and sew the small side at 3/8″.  Flip the pocket and sew very close to the edge following the ribbing stitching and the zipper.

Step Seven: Finishing the hoodie.

Remember the 1/2″ bit that is left hanging from the facing?  Turn the extra bit up and sew by hand using a needle and thread. Using your zipper foot, topstitch on either side of the zipper 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric to make sure the facing will never get in the way of the zipper.

Lastly, take the cord and pass it through the grommet and the casing using the bobby pin.  I am using a nylon cord and it frays a lot so I will make a knot and burn the end a bit to seal the threads.

That's it folks! The first item on our “Sew Fit” collection is done.  I would like to play with a combination of fabrics for a more hip look. This is a perfect project to learn new skills on your sewing journey and it makes a really great present for anyone especially since the pattern is unisex.

I hope you enjoy this hoodie pattern and tutorial.  As for me, I am off to skip some rope.  Until next time!


hoodie pattern


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156 Responses to The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

  1. Judy Windham says:

    Yes I did make a hood to fit the coat I was making. It worked out perfect. Had no trouble at all, even add extra fabric in the depth of the pattern so that I could have a 2/3″ flip back band.

  2. Kristy J Rayner says:

    It took me a bit to figure out how to assemble the printed sheets. Once i understood that… Well, it’s so clever!!!
    Can’t wait to try this out!
    At 56, I’m a fan of zip up hoodies in all types of fabrics because they are so versitile!
    Thank you in advance for your all your hard work creating the pattern and the instructions!!

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Kristy, i too am a fan of the hoodies in many type of fabrics. There is no age limit for comfortable dressing, IMO, Cheers!

  3. Donna says:

    This looks great! I like a longer fitting hoodie. Is this pattern easily lengthened by a few of inches without taking away the nice fit?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Donna yes you can, simply because this is not a baggy type hoodie, it is more closed to the body.

      • Tereza says:

        Dear Mayara, thank you very much for this great pattern. I am into making one for myself and I have a question – what is the lenght of the finished garment – size 20 – 22? I would like mine to end just on or slightely under the hips and becouse I am 180 cm tall (ca 5″11´) I am pretty sure I will have to make some adjustements. Thank you very much for your answer. You are great! With Love from Czech Tereza

        • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

          HI Tereza, I am in the middle of redesigning my work area and my patterns are still in boxes, I would have to print and paste one to answer your question however this is what you can do: measure the front of the body from the shoulder to the hem plus the length of the ribbing. Then measure your body and adjust the hoodie to the length you want. Hope that helps. A big hug from the Souther Hemisfere.

  4. Jolanda says:

    Hi this pattern will be my first venture into clothes making from a pattern… So I guess it’s fair I don’t understand everything I see. Most of it I get, but what boggles me is the 3 pocket “patterns” . I read that those two lose ones are pocket and pocket lining, which I don’t get, because they don’t fit each other… But then there is a third one on the front panel, or is that just to show where it goes?
    Sorry if I ask stupid questions, but I’ve read though everything hear and I can’t figure it out. Want to start making mine today or at least tomorrow, hope you see this soon.

    Thanx again for making sewing do-able for newbies.

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Jolanda this is not a beginners pattern. I dont want to discourage you but you need to know how to work with knits, know how to apply a patch pocket and sew a zipper. Please read all the instructions at least three times before starting. Where did you get the three pockets? the drawing on the front piece is the placement for the pocket, not an actual pocket.

  5. Joscelyn Davie says:

    Thank you so much for this awesome pattern. I am so looking forward to making it. I am just wondering, do you have a version of this to be printed on A0 Paper? I am going to print a bunch of patterns at the printshop on draft paper, and would love to do this one, rather than having to stick all the A4 pages together.

    Looking forward to hearing from you

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Joscelyn, I do not have an A0 version of this pattern yet. I will have one in the future for sale at my Etsy Shop.

  6. Cat Crain says:

    I TOTALLY need to make this! Appreciate the pattern being made to include sizes for us int he BBW crew 🙂

  7. Esther Daugherty says:

    I love this hoodie. But I would love to make me a pair of shorts.

  8. Sofia says:

    Love the way it looks! Would this pattern work with a fabric with no stretch in it? Like a woven cotton fabric.

  9. V says:

    Made a hoodie for my 13yo in February and I’ve been jealous of it ever since. Finally got around to making my own. Now my husband wants one… I just love this pattern. Still having some trouble getting a clean finish at the top of the zipper, but practice makes perfect, right? Thanks again for sharing!

  10. Yerica says:

    HI there! Thanks for the pattern I’m excited for sewing this one but can I skip the grommets all together?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi Yerica, you can but if you are going to place a string around the hoodie you will need to make an opening to thread it.

  11. Ntombenhle Nkosi says:

    Oh Myra I’ve already added the seam allowance I saw your answer on the previous comments. Thank you,

  12. Ntombenhle Nkosi says:

    Hi Myra. I have finished cutting the paper pattern pieces. I’m ready to cut my preshrunk fabric. Just to confirm that I need to add seem allowances to the pattern. I will be using a serger mostly.

  13. Jordan says:

    Would this pattern work for a men’s hoodie?

  14. john says:

    Hello where is the free hoodie pattern at

  15. V says:

    Such a great pattern and tutorial! My 13yo was extremely happy with it (he picked the fabrics) and I finished it in an evening (no pockets, though, I’ll have to wrench it away from him to add those). Thank you so much!

  16. Sharon Luedeman says:

    Thanks Mayra! I was one of the people who commented on the hoodie for the contest. I got all excited when you mentioned that the person who won the Juki had commented in the Craftsy section. Glad for Suzanne.

  17. Itto says:

    Thanks a lot Mayra for this free pattern.
    Best. Itto

    • kat says:

      I can’t find the pdf pattern download, and i can’t click on the pattern picture, when i do it says browser out of memory.

      I’ve tried drawing the pattern but i need the pdf for the sizes.

      • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

        Hi, Kat, you are running out of memory on your computer perhaps, you can download the pattern to a thumb drive.

        • kat says:

          yes i have cleared some space on my laptop! can you direct me to the link for the actual pattern? all i can see if the picture of the pattern pieces.

          thank you

        • kat says:

          no worries, I managed to download the file. i look forward to posting the finished project – i’m attempting to hand sew it as my machine isn’t working at the moment. any tips on putting a zip in by hand?

          • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

            I suggest applying stretchable fusible interfacing along the front of the hoodie to prevent it to buckle. Try not to make the stitches too tight but rather make them smaller. Please post a picture, I think many will be surprised this can be done by hand and you will be inspiring other who do not have a sewing machine. Thank you, Kat, looking forward to your picture.

  18. Mary H says:

    I finished my hoodie and love it! I’v had so many compliments on it. I did change things up a bit: I used the same technique on the lower rib as on the sleeves for a finished look. And I cut the facing 4″ longer so I could fold it up and in, giving a clean finish to the bottom.

  19. Genevieve says:

    I’m looking to make this for my husband. From his measurements (chest 39″, waist 35 3/4″), he would fit in a 12, but he is 6 feet tall and very long in torso and limbs. Would I make the length the longest and add a 3″ ribbing to cover his booty?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hi, Genevieve, the best thing to do is to print size 12, measure the pattern and then measure your husband’s torso and add accordingly to how you want the hoodie to fit his body, do notice this is not a baggy fit. Please measure the shoulders and across the chest to make sure he will fit on the hoodie, when in dought print the bigger size. any other question do not hesitate to ask. Kind regards, Mayra Cecilia

  20. Jeff says:

    Thanks, I just used this to make a hoodie for my wife, and it really came out to have a nice modern shape and fit! The only issue I had was that the hood came out an inch smaller in circumference than the neckline. If I were to make it again, I would wait and not cut out the hood until I finished stitching the sleeves and front and back panels, and measure again before cutting. Or maybe I was too greedy sewing up my seam allowances on the hood? I’m new to this, I have no idea, but I hemmed the extra neckline on the front and it came out nice anyway. Thanks!

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      HI Jeff, you will be surprised when you take 1/8″ here and there how it does alter the fitting of the pattern pieces. Since you are new to sewing keep strick seam allowance always and slow down, speed will come with time. I congratulate you how you found a way to easily make up the difference. I will make a note in the tutorial with your feedback I think it is a very easy mistake to make when you are excited about finishing something as a gift for someone special.

      • Priscilla says:

        I nominate Jeff for husband of the year! How romantic is that to make a special garment for your wife.

      • Karin says:

        I have the same problem with the hood as Jeff. I have been thinking and looking what I did wrong but I just can’t find it. Please can you tell me what I probably did wrong?
        I also want tot say that your site, tutorials and patterns are just great! Thank you for sharing so much knowledge with us here all over the world!

        • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

          I karin, happy to help but there are 148 comments about this pattern you would save me precious time if you tell me what went wrong?

  21. Jill Perez says:

    What size should I choose if my bust is smaller than the hips?
    Bust 39 (sz 10) Hips 42 1/2 (sz 14)

  22. Emely Eulenfeld says:

    Can you post the link to this fabric in specific, so where we could but it online please?
    Thanks in advance

  23. Paprika says:

    I am having a hard time finding interesting knits and sweatshirt fabric like the one you used. Any suggestions where to shop online?

  24. Lily Fung says:

    Hi Mayra, are all So Sew Easy patterns doesn’t include seam allowance?

  25. Carolyn Meyers says:

    How much ease do you suggest for the finished measurements and how do I know what size zipper to use?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      There is about 4″ across the bust. This is not one of those floppy hoddies. There is no seam allowance you have to add it. The zipper will depend on the size you are. Print the pattern and measure the front piece and the ribbed band then you will know what zipper you need.

  26. Jackie says:

    What is the back length? (i.e. neck to bottom edge length)

  27. Sewer in Finland says:

    I’m ready to cut the farbic, but does this pattern include seam allowance or not?

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  29. happykpets says:

    Is there a (easy) way to turn this into a hoodie without zipper in the front? JUst leave out seam allowance ant cut one front piece?

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