The Hoodie Pattern and Tutorial

3. Trace and Pin the facing

It is time to pin the facing, but before we do that we need to trace the facing from the hoodie pattern.  Add the length of the ribbing plus 1/2″.  This length is enough to cover the whole front of the hoodie.

Add 3 3/4″ to the bottom of the facing pattern.  Do not forget this.  I did and I had to add a piece after I cut the fabric.  The red rectangle shows where you have to lengthen plus 1/2″.Take your facing and using your serger or overlocker neaten the edge with the curve and the top end of the facing. Tip: If you do not have a serger or overlocker, simply zigzag the edge then fold just the zigzag part and stay stitch.  That should give you a really clean finish.  Save this technique for woven fabrics.  It works wonders.

I have forgotten my own advice and did not add the extra length to the pattern, so I cut the fabric short.  I had to sew the extra piece of fabric. It will not be noticed and will look like is part of the ribbing.

Pin the facing right side down on top of the zipper.  Notice the extra 1/2″ at the end.  We will need this to hide the raw edge. Change your foot to a zipper foot.  We are going to make one continuous stitching line.  Starting one side and ending at the other.

When you get to the top corner of the facing stop at 3/8″ from the edge and pivot the hoodie to make a perfect corner.

Leave your needle down and turn the fabric to the right.

Continue sewing the curve side of the facing and the hood.

After sewing, trim the corner to allow the fabric in the corner to lie flat when turned inside out.

Step Six:  Adding pockets (optional) and cotton tape

Lay the hoodie zipper side up and open it to expose the facing.  We are going to attach cotton tape to reinforce the stitches and prevent the hoodie from stretching.

Lift the facing to expose the seam allowance and pin the tape. Lower the facing and start sewing following the seam that is attaching the hood to the jacket. Remember to lift the facing and place the tape under the facing to continue sewing.  Trim the seam allowance enough to be able to hide it under the tape. Sew the tape down very close to the edge of the tape.  This is the perfect opportunity to sew a custom label if you have one.

Optional step:  Adding the pockets

This step is optional. Some people like pockets in their hoodies while some do not care for them.  Up to you.

Cut two sides of the pocket on the fashion fabric and two on contrasting fabric.

Sew all the edges at 1/4″.  Leave the little side open to turn the pocket.  See the yellow arrow.  Trim the corners only about 1/8″ so they lie down.  The seam allowance is small enough and there is no need for trimming it.  Turn the pocket right side out and make a topstitch 1/4″ from the edge.

On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket right side down and sew the small side at 3/8″.  Flip the pocket and sew very close to the edge following the ribbing stitching and the zipper.

Step Seven: Finishing the hoodie.

Remember the 1/2″ bit that is left hanging from the facing?  Turn the extra bit up and sew by hand using a needle and thread. Using your zipper foot, topstitch on either side of the zipper 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric to make sure the facing will never get in the way of the zipper.

Lastly, take the cord and pass it through the grommet and the casing using the bobby pin.  I am using a nylon cord and it frays a lot so I will make a knot and burn the end a bit to seal the threads.

That's it, folks! The first item on our “Sew Fit” collection is done.  I would like to play with a combination of fabrics for a more hip look. This is a perfect project to learn new skills on your sewing journey and it makes a really great present for anyone especially since the pattern is unisex.

I hope you enjoy this hoodie pattern and tutorial.  As for me, I am off to skip some rope.  Until next time!

hoodie pattern


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Nancy W
Nancy W

I have a question. Would I be able to adapt a ‘Mandarin’ collar on the garment if I chose to make another one without the hood?

Nancy W
Nancy W

I printed the pattern this morning. It looks fantastic. I especially like the raglan sleeves with the dart at the shoulder top. I have fairly broad shoulders but not large shoulder bones. This type of sleeve always fits so much better. I can’t wait to put the pieces together and get started.
I am glad I have read the comments. I will be sure to add seam allowance to my pattern size.
I am grateful for the opportunity to use another of your patterns.
Your photo instructions are very helpful.
Thank you so much for this lovely pattern.

Bett
Bett

Hi, and thanks for the pattern!
I have just a quick question, about how to draw and cut the facing and wrist/waist ribbing not included in the pattern. I’m a little scared about doing these wrong.
Can someone tell me what bits of the pattern we’re meant to trace for the facing, what kind of facing we should optimally use, and the sizes to cut and what material to use for the ribbings?
Thank you so very much <3

Susan
Susan

Is there a link to download instructions for the hoodie pattern?

Me sew
Me sew

Add 3 3/4 to where? Your words day bottom but the picture is confusing. Please help

nigel simkin
nigel simkin

could this pattern possibly be used for a man as well?

Liz
Liz

I would like to use this pattern to make a hoodie, but instead of the suggested cotton linen & jersey knit fabric, I’d like to use a faux fur. Can you please tell me if I would still need a serger machine? Or could I accomplish the pattern using a regular sewing machine?

Me sew
Me sew
Reply to  Liz

It says it’s unisex

Bernie
Bernie

I just made this. I’m happy with it overall, but differed slightly in construction order: I did the pockets before the zipper, so that the edges were enclosed in the seams. The only issue I had was with the size!! My measurements are 36″ around bust. I wanted space in it, so I made the size to measure 42″. It turned out WAY smaller: finished size is only 32″!!!

Noémie
Noémie

This item is gorgeous ! Can you let me know where I can get the fabric ? I like the graphic pattern !!

Sherry
Sherry

I got this pattern to make for my 16 yr old granddaughter. Had to print patten twice to get scale correct. Cut out for a size 14, which is her size. NOT! It is so small it fits my 8 year old grandson. Good thing I made it out of turtle fleece. He loves it. SO pattern not for adults.

Angie
Angie
Reply to  Sherry

Hi Sherry,

I wonder if you possibly made the same mistake I nearly made, which was assuming a 5/8′ seam allowance was already built into the pattern – as it is with just about every other ‘commercial’ pattern. The section on ‘no seam allowance included’ can be easily missed if you start cutting, without reading – as I nearly did – the bit at the front before the sewing instructons. I only caught it as I compared the hood section in size to one I alreadly have, and wondered why there was no seam allowance past the grommet for the inner layer.

Mayra, also about the scaling I use adobe photoshop elements to print from as it is more easily adjusted (in 1% increments) if the 2″ square does not equate to exactly 2″. Be aware therefore, that not everybody is using the same printing options.

Jai
Jai

Hooded cardigan

Charlotte Hampe
Charlotte Hampe

Love it bit in Sweden se idé om in sted of inch somtime its hard to change it

Tina M Hobert
Tina M Hobert

Love this pattern. So many different combinations of color and fabric to consider!!
Although, I won’t be attempting this real soon, it’s definitely on my top list for the year. Need to get back into making garments with a few simpler patterns first.
One of the main reasons I used to make a lot of my clothes, is because of my size. I’ve always had a difficult time finding clothes “off the rack” that fit, so I either had to pay to have them altered or do it myself. That can add up quickly. I learned early on, it’s not only less expensive, but much more satisfying to know I’ve done it myself!
The only request I would like to suggest, is to see more patterns which include smaller sizes. I’m 5’3″, and 100-104 pounds. So a size 4 is best, and sometimes a 2, depending on the garment-2’s are next to impossible to find though.
Just something to keep in mind for the future, if you could?
I still do a lot in knitting, and in that particular maker’s community, there’s been a huge increase these past few years for size inclusivity. This should include from the smallest to the largest, in order to cover the greatest number. Would love to see this move forward in sewing as well.
Thank you for all your helpful tips and techniques, as well as the free patterns you so graciously provide. ????????????
(Apologies for the lengthy comment.)

Debbie
Debbie

Thank u for this perfect pattern. May I ask where the fabric is from? It’s perfect weight for So Florida.

Janie Smith
Janie Smith

Retired but love to sew

Meg
Meg

Great pattern – and fabulous fabric – where did you find that fabric?

Cindy N
Cindy N

I am loving this hoodie. Finally a hoodie that fits!! The raglan sleeve is just what my narrow shoulders needed, yet my bigger parts fit too. I plan to make more of these. The one small thing I might alter on the next one is to sew the pocket into the zipper and band seam instead of topstitching it all around. Excellent patter – thanks for making it available. I look forward to making more garments from your patterns.

Rae
Rae

Hi, I lovr this hootie!!! Where can I find that fabric????