The Wandering Waistline Explained

Pulling on a pair of vintage 1980s pleated shorts (sharkstooth print, no less), I found myself thanking the fashion gods that the best of fashions always keep coming back for a revival, thank goodness for retro style! The pleated high waist, which was a no-no for so long, finally acceptable to wear again and I’m grateful, so comfortable and so practical!

The Wandering Waistline

Consider for a moment, the insanely low waistline of the hipster pants and jeans from the late ’90s and early ’00s, the inevitable plumber’s bottom, and the hassle of making sure that your undies (which tended to end up sticking out) didn’t have sheep or anything else ridiculous printed on them. To think that that was perfectly acceptable and yet a picture of 1980s pleated pants at the time looked totally unsavory and rather hilarious, someone actually wearing them was considered tragically uncool. It’s strange how we change and how fashion changes with us, hopefully for the better!

Now the high-waisted skirt and trousers are back and reasonably acceptable to wear again, whilst you’ll be hard-pressed to find a low-cut hipster in any store!

The whole experience really got me thinking about the waistline, such an integral element of fashion, the way it varies over time and place, and really how important the waistline style is to the fashion movement as a whole. I thought it would be a good idea to take a look at different waistline styles, what body types they flatter, and where they fit into the fashion spectrum.

Basque / Antebellum / V-shaped Waistline:

Here’s a waistline that’s perfect for those curvaceous pear-shaped or hourglass-shaped ladies. This classic waistline is usually reserved for ball gowns and wedding dresses and lengthens the torso whilst the full skirts normally associated with it will hide a multitude of chocolate-induced sins (like serious hips and bottoms). With the bottom of the V or U well below the belly, between the hips, this style works better with a flat tummy, although the stiff material of the bodice might do well to cover those extra lumps and bumps as well.

Wandering Waistline

Dropped / Drop Waistline:

Now, this waistline we don’t really see too often in everyday fashion, maybe the fashion cycle has yet to bring this one back in full force. Think 1920s, long cigarette holder, the wavy bob, and the feather headband, and then you’ll know what a dropped waistline is. We do still see this in ballgowns and wedding dresses, usually with a full skirt. This waistline lies at the mid or upper hip and works best on slim women who are looking to gain the impression of height or women with an hourglass figure…but if you already have a long torso, stay away from this style.

Wandering Waistline

Empire Waistline:

This everyday and formal favorite sits just below the bust, usually with a skirt cascading straight down from it. This style accentuates the bust and hides fat tummies, giving an impression of height and slimness…not to be worn if you have a hefty bust as it really does make the ladies look larger!

Wandering Waistline

Raised Waistline:

A horizontal waist about an inch above the natural waist, this line is often confused with the Empire line, which falls just a little higher, right beneath the breasts. This style lengthens the legs, curves the hips, and shortens the torso. This effect also applies to mid and high-waisted trousers. This won’t look good if you have a short torso or buxom hips!

Wandering Waistline

Diagonal / Asymmetrical Waistline:

An interesting style, most often seen in formal, wedding, and office wear. Running diagonally across the waistline, this line is above the waist on one side and below the waist on the other. This waistline slims down a larger figure but won’t look right on a short person as it really cuts the figure in half.

Wandering Waistline

Inverted V / U Shape Waistline:

This style, also mostly seen in office and formal wear, wedding, and ballgowns, shortens a long torso and lengthens short legs.

waistline

Natural Waistline:

A horizontal waistline, falling directly on the natural waist. Arguably the most comfortable of waistlines, for both a two-piece ensemble, like trousers and a top, and a dress…the waist is where the body naturally bends and it makes sense that the narrowest point should be there. This waistline looks great on all body types as it enhances all natural curves, except for the apple-shaped figure, where the waistline is the largest point. Extra-tall women appear shorter with a natural waistline because of the way it divides the figure.

2016-07-03 11.28.27

No Waistline:

These dresses are sewn together in panels and have no waistline at all.  They are suitable for any body type and create a slimming effect.

2016-07-03 11.29.41

Wedding dresses and ball gowns are one thing…but it's really in our everyday street fashion that the wandering waistline strikes me the most.

Consider the wandering waistline on men's trousers for instance, which reaches its lowest point at the age of about 16 years old (where the boxers must be seen and the pants held up with one hand, goodness forbid), it falls across the natural waistline in the late 20's and the 30's, after which the real waistline is never seen again as pants reach up, as high as just 7 inches below the armpit for gentlemen in their 70's and upward…a known fact.

Indeed, fashion is a funny thing, influenced by not just time and place but a wealth of other factors and it's exciting just to wonder…” what on earth is coming next?”
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Lori M.
Lori M.

I like my natural waistline… as a fluffy lady it is the best choice.

amaranthadesigns

I like to wear the natural waistline because it’s more comfortable than any of the others. However, if I had a flatter tummy, I’d be all over the asymmetric!

Vanda
Vanda

I prefer the raised waistline. It looks great on me and I actually look slimmer with one.

Bette Milla
Bette Milla

Such a great article. Thru out a woman’s lifetime her most flattering waistline style could change many times.

IrynaB.
IrynaB.

I like natural waist line, as I am short, stout, and busty! Though I don’t mind low rise as much as others. I don’t like feeling a tight belt on my waist.
Thank you for the giveaway

Stacie Sawicki
Stacie Sawicki

I really liked how you explained the pros/cons for each waistline so everyone can better choose the best waistline for their body type. For me I usually prefer the empire waistline because I am not only short, but also have a very short torso (I’m all legs), but am now considering trying a drop waist to help lengthen the torso. Thank you for such an informative post!

Jeanne Brown
Jeanne Brown

I like the natural waistline.

Cindy S
Cindy S

I like the natural waist, and I’m so glad low rise is finally going out of style!

Annie
Annie

One other comment. I’d love to see a follow up article to this in which everyday outfits (and patterns) are shown that use each of these waistlines and, if possible, different model shapes that show how the same outfit can look different on different women. Not runway fashions or old-fashioned pictures, but current, everyday clothes.

Mickey Newman
Mickey Newman

The article was interesting. It has given me some ideas. Thanks!

VN
VN

Too bad the inverted V waistline isn’t more available for casual clothing.

KipperCat
KipperCat

Either a raised waistline that is just a bit higher than normally found, or no waistline. Age is definitely a factor in thsi choice.

Alyssa M
Alyssa M

I am brainstorming designs for a bridesmaid dress I will need to make soon. I’m considering adding a diagonal waistline now! Great and informative post!

Annie
Annie

I really like this article as I’ve been thinking a lot about waistlines lately. I prefer the dropped waist for myself. I’m short-waisted with no definition in my mid-section. When I was younger and slimmer, the empire waist was really nice, too. But now that I have a more middle-aged figure with extra weight around my mid-section, empire waists make me look pregnant.

Peg
Peg

GReat article. Many have tried but raised is the one for me

Peg
Peg

Definitely the raised one for me. I am short and a little round, but it does not matter when I am wearing this style. Thanks for this great info

Helen
Helen

I have the same problem as Missy Byeline, so I prefer the narural waistline,

Anita
Anita

Alas, my natural waistline in not what it used to be, so I prefer the “no waistline” look these days!

kim parga
kim parga

I love how your articles are so fluid and easy to follow, whether for an experienced sewer or beginner. My waistline has taken a wild turn over the past few years from thin to extra large…LOL. So this article was helpful in showing me ways to hide the extra weight, simply by the placement of the waistline.

Christine Kille
Christine Kille

I find myself more drawn to an empire waist in dresses and tunics, they seem more flattering to my figure & are always comfortable to wear.

Peggy Gibbs
Peggy Gibbs

I like the natural waistline. Thanks.

NikoruWiriamu
NikoruWiriamu

I’m new to the sewing/fashion world, so this was very informative. Thank you!!

Sue Biles
Sue Biles

I love all the various waistlines. I think it depends on the type of fabric and current interests on which one to use. Thanks for the explanation.

VN
VN

This was very educational. It’s too bad there aren’t more inverted V styles available for casual dress.

carolyn montgomery
carolyn montgomery

i prefer the no waistline style; don’t ask me why.

carolyn montgomery
carolyn montgomery

i perfer the now waistline styles.

Marsha T
Marsha T

It’s interesting to see the “science” behind what I’ve learned works for me over the years. A couple of these I might have to retry since it’s been years (and body changes) ago.

Jane Moore
Jane Moore

Great information. Thanks for the pictures.

Jean Palionis
Jean Palionis

I prefer the raised waistline as it hides the little pooch I have developed as I have gotten older.

Beth T.
Beth T.

I prefer a natural waistline, although as a long-waisted person it is not always as “natural” as it sounds.

Rimma
Rimma

What a great article – clear and visual! Thank you!

Claire Hayes
Claire Hayes

Interesting article, especially the discussion of how each style works on different body types. Thanks.

LeAnne L
LeAnne L

I liked the natural waist until I didn’t have one anymore!

Leslie
Leslie

Great Article! Over the year I have tried them all, you are spot-on in your evaluation of the results of the differs waistlines.

Iva Arnaudova
Iva Arnaudova

Great article. I prefer the raised waistline.

Stacey Caffery
Stacey Caffery

I prefer the natural waistline but it also depends on the type of outfit and fabric

Rachelle

To me it just depends on the outfit. I like a wrap style high waist on dresses.

Diane M
Diane M

Thanks for the article. I like the ‘no waistline’ for comfort.

Diane (Mo)
Diane (Mo)

This was interesting — how the different styles flatter different figures. My favorite is the empire or raised waist.

Bonnie Thiem
Bonnie Thiem

I have worn different waistlines in the past but I like it in the middle where it’s supposed to be.