This Unisex Pajama Pattern is part of a new storyboard that I will be sharing with you called “Feelings”. It's made up of clothes that either match or improve your state-of-mind. With this pajama pattern, we will be focusing on comfort and warmth.
This is Part 1 of the pajamas in which we make the pajama top. There will be a subsequent Part 2 where we will make the pajama bottoms to match.
I decided on this design because it seems like it's cold everywhere (even in Singapore if you can believe it). It'll be 23 °C (73.4°F) tonight, so I will be leaving the windows and doors wide open 🙂 . Everyone, including my daughter, seems to be getting the flu too, so why not make things more comfortable with a new pair of PJs?
The key to this pattern is the fabric you choose to use. Use silk for a luxurious feeling, flannel for winter comfort, or cotton for a Sunday morning breakfast. I've provided examples of each of these in the fabric recommendations below.
Another important detail will be the piping on this unisex pajama pattern. Therefore, I would push this project up to the Intermediate Level of difficulty. If you are a beginner sewist and still want to make these pajamas, avoid working with the piping and make sure you own a serger. You may want to wait for the video to come out to help complete this project. But, by all means, go ahead and push yourself if you want a challenge. I would never discourage anyone from trying and pushing out of your comfort zone.
More than a year ago I wrote a tutorial on how to apply piping to a collar the super easy way but I never shared the cape coat pattern with you that was part of the tutorial. If capes are your thing, do let me know in the comments below and I'll get it ready to release.
The fabric I have used a plaid 100% cotton flannel. I washed and dried the fabric in the dryer before I started, both to remove some of the fuzz and to shrink the fabric. I bought 4.5 meters because I am planning to make both top and bottom for my son.
The pattern has no seam allowance so be sure to add the seam allowance according to your level of expertize. Beginners, please add 3/4 to 5/8″ (1.5cm), Intermediate to Advanced add 1/4″ to 3/8″ (1cm).
- 2 1/4 yards to 3 yards of crepe de chine, cotton batiste or cotton flannel
- Thread to match
- 4 cover buttons or normal buttons of 18mm diameter
- 1 yard of thin fusible interfacing
- Measuring tape
- Sewing machine
- Pressing cloth
Unisex Pajama Pattern Finished Measurements
Choose your size according to your preference for the amount of ease you want to be able to sleep comfortably. Add a 1-inch hem allowance to the sleeves and front and back pieces.
How To Sew Your Pajamas
The first thing you need to do is to apply fusible interfacing to these places; one of the collar pieces, the front facings, and two of the four pocket sides. (This bit is optional since these pajamas don't have to have pockets).
Piping is optional in this project. However, piping offers a touch of elegance found in more expensive garments. The following sewing technique is similar to a factory way of sewing.
Apply Piping To The Collar, Pocket And Front Pieces
There is no easy way to apply piping to a corner, however, I will show you what I think it the best way. When applying piping to a corner, the corner will have to be left a bit rounded. The key is to make the corner as small as possible.
Use a ruler to find the pivot point between the seam allowances. In my case is 3/8″.
Mark the corner of the collar. Pin the edge of the tape on top of the collar.
Sew until the corner, leave the needle down and pivot the corner. Cut a slit in the piping tape but not on the fabric of the collar. Repeat on the other corner of the collar.
Sewing The Pockets
We will need to use the same technique to apply the piping to the pocket. Apply the piping the same way as above with only one change to the curves of the pockets as is shown below.
Slash the tape of the piping to be able to bend the piping around the corner.
Place the other side of the pockets prints sides together. Sew from the bottom of the pocket to the corner then the other and down again. Leave a gap of one inch to turn the pocket around.
Iron. Place the pocket on the front piece. Use your pattern for placement or as you like. I tried to match the plaid prints so I had to move it a bit towards the sides.
Assembling Your Pajamas
Sewing the facing (make sure it has fusible interfacing).
- Serge the curved edge of the front facing and the shoulder. If you do not have a serger use your zigzag then fold the zigzag edge.
- Place the front piece print side up. Place the front facing print side down on top of the front piece. Sew the front facing to the front of the pajamas.
- Start sewing from the hem to the collar ending on the notch. *Please note I forgot to serge the facing but I still can do this before I sew the collar down.*
- Pin the two fronts to the back at the shoulders. Sew the shoulder seams and use your serger to neaten the seam allowance. Do not finish sewing the facing yet. Iron.
- The next step is to assemble the collar so stitch the collar pieces together placing the right sides facing each other. Sew at 3/8″ or at the seam allowance you have chosen. Stop at the corner 3/8″ before the edge. Leave the needle down then pivot the collar and continue sewing. Trim the seam allowances by half and clip the corners diagonally. Turn the collar print side out and press using a pressing cloth iron.
- Attach the collar to the back of the pajamas. Align the center of the collar with the center of the back piece. Sew.
- Working on the inside of the pajamas pin the facing along the collar opening and over the collar. Turn the top edge of the facing in about 1/8″.
- Sew the facing to the collar opening at your chosen seam allowance. My seam allowance is 3/8″. Serge the collar from the corner of the facing to the other corner of the facing. This step will neaten the collar seam allowance. This step will be sewed differently if we did not have a serger.
- Secure the facing to the shoulder seam by topstitching either the seam allowance or sewing on the shoulder seam. This step can also be accomplished by hand sewing the point is to secure the facing to the shoulder seam.
Attaching The Sleeves
- Sew two rows of very large stitches, 1/4″ from the edge. Gather by pulling the two threads from the bobbin then straighten the second thread from the edge.
- Pin the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and sew at 3/8″. Iron.
- Sew the sleeves starting from the wrist to the armhole and continue sewing the sides of the pajama to the hem.
- Hem the pajamas at the bottom and the sleeves. Serge the edge or zigzag and fold 1″ then use a blind hem stitch or just sew 1/8″ from the edge.
- Make the buttonholes by using the pattern to mark the position of the buttons.
- Iron the pajamas using your pressing cloth if you are using satin or silk.
And you're done! Now you have cosy, elegant pajamas, that are good enough to spend a lazy Sunday wearing them.
See you in Part 2 where we make the matching pajama bottoms. Enjoy!
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