What Is Velvet – A Full Fabric Guide

what is velvet

Velvet has long been a symbol of luxury and opulence, adorning royalty, nobility, and the rich and famous throughout the centuries. With its characteristic softness and shimmer, this plush fabric has captured the hearts and imaginations of many, becoming a staple in the world of fashion and interior design. In this blog post, we will explore the fascinating world of velvet fabric, delving into its history, production process, and variants, as well as offering tips on how to care for your velvet garments.

The History of Velvet: Pre and Post-Industrial Revolution

Velvet has a rich and fascinating history that spans various civilizations, from the East to the Middle East and the West. Its early development can be traced back to thousands of years ago, with different regions contributing to the evolution and refinement of this luxurious fabric.

Eastern Civilizations

The early precursors of velvet can be found in ancient China, dating back to the Qin and Han dynasties (circa 221 BCE – 220 CE). These early forms of velvet were made from silk, as sericulture (silk production) had already been established in China for centuries. The fabric was considered a luxury item and was primarily used for the garments of the ruling class and religious ceremonies.

Middle Eastern Civilizations

Around the 8th century, the technique of velvet weaving reached the Islamic world, which played a significant role in the evolution and spread of this luxurious fabric. The Persians were known for their skill in weaving intricate designs, and their expertise in velvet production quickly gained recognition.

One of the earliest examples of Islamic velvet can be found in the Alhambra palace in Granada, Spain, where Moorish craftsmen adorned the walls with stunning velvet tapestries featuring intricate geometric patterns.

The Middle East also saw the introduction of metal threads to velvet, with gold and silver threads used to create rich and elaborate designs. This further enhanced the luxuriousness of velvet, making it even more sought after by the elite.

Western Civilizations

The knowledge of velvet production made its way to Europe via the Silk Road, and by the 13th century, Italy had become the primary center for velvet weaving in the Western world. The cities of Venice, Florence, and Genoa were particularly renowned for their velvet production, with skilled craftsmen creating exquisite designs that were highly sought after by royalty, nobility, and the wealthy.

Italian velvets often featured intricate patterns, such as pomegranates, foliage, and geometric designs, that reflected the artistic styles of the time. The use of gold and silver threads, which had been introduced in the Middle East, further elevated the luxuriousness of European velvets.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, velvet spread to other European countries like France, Spain, and England. It became a symbol of wealth and power, adorning the clothing of kings, queens, and aristocrats, as well as being used for opulent furnishings, wall hangings, and religious vestments.

The Industrial Revolution brought about significant changes to the production of velvet. The invention of the Jacquard loom in the early 19th century revolutionized textile manufacturing, allowing for more intricate patterns and designs to be woven with greater efficiency. This innovation made velvet more accessible to a wider audience, increasing its popularity and cementing its status as a symbol of luxury.

How is Velvet Sourced and Made?

Velvet is a unique fabric due to its distinct pile, or raised surface, which is created by cutting the loops of warp threads during the weaving process. Traditionally, velvet was made from silk, which gave it its characteristic sheen and softness. However, today, velvet can also be made from a variety of other fibers, such as cotton, rayon, and synthetic materials like polyester.

The production of velvet involves two key stages: weaving and finishing. During the weaving stage, two layers of fabric are created simultaneously, with the warp threads forming loops that connect the layers. These loops are then cut during the finishing process, creating the soft, plush pile that is synonymous with velvet.

To understand how velvet is sourced and made, it is essential to delve deeper into the fibers used in its production, primarily silk and rayon. We will also discuss the manufacturing hubs for these materials.

Silk Production

Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by silkworms, specifically the larvae of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori). The process of cultivating silkworms and harvesting their silk is called sericulture.

Silkworms are fed a diet of mulberry leaves until they are ready to spin their cocoons. The cocoon is a continuous silk filament that can be up to 900 meters in length. To harvest the silk, the cocoons are placed in hot water to dissolve the sericin, a protein that binds the filaments together. This process also kills the silkworm inside the cocoon.

Next, the silk filaments are carefully unraveled from the cocoons and combined to create silk threads. These threads are then twisted together to form stronger strands, which can be dyed and woven into fabrics, including velvet.

The majority of the world's silk production takes place in Asia, with China and India being the top two producers. Other notable silk-producing countries include Uzbekistan, Thailand, Vietnam, and Brazil.

Rayon Production

Rayon, also known as viscose, is a semi-synthetic fiber derived from cellulose, a natural component found in the cell walls of plants. The process of creating rayon involves several steps:

  1. Cellulose extraction: Wood pulp, typically from pine, spruce, or eucalyptus trees, is treated with chemicals to remove impurities and break it down into cellulose.
  2. Dissolving cellulose: The purified cellulose is dissolved in a solution of sodium hydroxide (alkali) and carbon disulfide, resulting in a viscous liquid called viscose.
  3. Extruding filaments: The viscose solution is forced through a spinneret, a device with tiny holes, into a bath of sulfuric acid. The acid coagulates the viscose, turning it into solid filaments of rayon.
  4. Washing and finishing: The newly formed rayon filaments are washed to remove any residual chemicals, and then they are treated with various finishing agents to improve their texture, strength, and appearance.

Major producers of rayon are China, India, Indonesia, and the United States. However, the environmental concerns associated with rayon production, such as deforestation and water pollution, have led to the development of more sustainable alternatives like Lyocell and modal.

What is the Double Cloth Loom and How is it Used in Making Velvet?

The double cloth loom is a specialized type of loom used in the production of velvet. It is designed to weave two layers of fabric simultaneously, with the warp threads forming loops that connect the layers. This unique weaving technique is what allows for the creation of velvet's distinctive pile.

Once the fabric has been woven on the double cloth loom, it is carefully removed and undergoes a process called shearing. During shearing, the loops connecting the two layers of fabric are cut, creating the plush surface we associate with velvet. The resulting fabric is then dyed, printed, or otherwise treated to achieve the desired color and finish.

What is the Difference Between Velvet, Velveteen, and Velour?

While all three fabrics share some similarities, there are key differences between velvet, velveteen, and velour:

  • Velvet: As discussed earlier, velvet is characterized by its dense, plush pile, which is created by cutting the loops of warp threads during the weaving process. Traditionally made from silk, velvet can also be produced from a variety of other fibers.
  • Velveteen: Velveteen is a more affordable alternative to velvet, typically made from cotton or a cotton blend. While it also features a cut pile, the pile is shorter and less dense than that of velvet, resulting in a less luxurious feel.
  • Velour: Velour is a knit fabric that closely resembles velvet in appearance but is stretchier and more lightweight. It is usually made from synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon, making it more affordable than velvet. Velour is often used for clothing and upholstery due to its softness, stretch, and durability.

What are the Different Types of Velvet?

Here, we will explore and describe additional types of velvet, each with its unique characteristics and applications:

  • Chiffon Velvet: This is a lightweight, sheer velvet made from a combination of silk and rayon fibers. The fabric drapes beautifully, making it perfect for elegant garments and flowing scarves.
  • Crushed Velvet: As mentioned earlier, crushed velvet is created by twisting and crushing the fabric during the finishing process, resulting in an irregular, textured appearance. This technique gives the fabric a unique look and is often used for clothing, home décor, and upholstery.
  • Embossed Velvet: Embossed velvet is created by applying heat and pressure to the fabric, leaving behind a raised pattern. This type of velvet offers a distinctive look and is often used for upholstery, home décor, and fashion accessories.
  • Hammered Velvet: Hammered velvet has an irregular, water-like surface texture created by unevenly pressing the fabric. This texture gives the fabric a distinctive, light-reflecting appearance, making it an excellent choice for evening wear and fashion accessories.
  • Lyons Velvet: Named after the French city of Lyon, Lyons velvet is a densely woven, high-quality velvet with a lustrous sheen. It is often used for luxurious garments, draperies, and upholstery.
  • Panne Velvet: Panne velvet is created by applying heavy pressure to the fabric, which crushes the pile and creates a shiny, lustrous finish. It is often used for clothing, costumes, and home décor.
  • Utrecht Velvet: Also known as Dutch velvet, Utrecht velvet is characterized by its stiff, upright pile, which is created by brushing the fabric in a single direction during the finishing process. This velvet type is commonly used for upholstery and wall coverings.
  • Voided Velvet: Voided velvet features areas where the pile has been removed, creating contrasting patterns and textures within the fabric. This technique is used to create intricate designs for clothing, accessories, and home décor.
  • Ring Velvet: Ring velvet is characterized by its looped pile, which is not cut during the finishing process. This creates a unique texture and appearance, making it suitable for decorative accents and fashion accessories.
  • Ciselé Velvet: Ciselé velvet is a patterned velvet created by varying the length and density of the pile. This technique produces a sculptural, embossed effect, making it a popular choice for luxurious garments and home furnishings.
  • Plain Velvet: Plain velvet, as the name suggests, is a simple, unadorned velvet with a uniform pile. It is versatile and can be used for a wide range of applications, from clothing to home décor.
  • Stretch Velvet: Stretch velvet is a type of velvet with added elastane or spandex fibers, giving it a significant amount of stretch and making it ideal for form-fitting garments, dancewear, and costumes.
  • Pile-on-pile Velvet: Pile-on-pile velvet features multiple layers of pile, creating a luxurious, three-dimensional effect. This technique is used for high-end garments and home furnishings, often incorporating intricate patterns and designs.

How to Care for Velvet Garments

Proper care is essential for maintaining the beauty and longevity of your velvet garments. Here are some tips on how to care for your velvet pieces:

  • Read the care label: Always consult the care label on your garment for specific instructions on cleaning and maintenance.
  • Dry clean only: Most velvet garments are labeled as dry clean only. This is because water can damage the fabric's delicate pile, resulting in matting and loss of sheen.
  • Steam to remove wrinkles: If your velvet garment becomes wrinkled, use a steamer or hold a steam iron above the fabric without touching it. The steam will help release the wrinkles without damaging the pile.
  • Store properly: To prevent wrinkles and damage, store your velvet garments in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Use padded or velvet-covered hangers to avoid creases and maintain the fabric's shape.
  • Protect from spills: If a liquid spill occurs, gently blot the area with a clean, dry cloth. Do not rub the fabric, as this can cause the pile to become matted. For stubborn stains, consult a professional cleaner.

Sewing Projects With Velvet

Different types of velvet offer unique characteristics, making them suitable for a variety of sewing projects.

Evening Gowns and Formal Wear

Silk velvet, chiffon velvet, and stretch velvet are perfect choices for creating elegant evening gowns and formal wear. Silk velvet's luxurious sheen, softness, and drape make it ideal for creating glamorous, flowing garments. Chiffon velvet, with its lightweight and sheer nature, can be used for delicate overlays or insets, adding depth and visual interest to the design. Stretch velvet, due to its added elasticity, is perfect for form-fitting gowns or dresses that require ease of movement, such as dancewear.

Home Décor and Upholstery

For home décor projects, such as pillows, curtains, and upholstery, types like cotton velvet, Lyons velvet, and Utrecht velvet are excellent options. Cotton velvet, with its plush feel and durability, is great for creating cozy and stylish throw pillows. Lyons velvet, known for its lustrous sheen and high-quality weave, is suitable for luxurious draperies and window treatments. Utrecht velvet, characterized by its stiff, upright pile, is ideal for upholstery projects that require a more structured and durable fabric.

Textured and Patterned Fashion Accessories

Crushed velvet, embossed velvet, and ciselé velvet are excellent choices for fashion accessories such as scarves, bags, and hats. Crushed velvet, with its irregular, textured appearance, can be used to create unique scarves or shawls that stand out. Embossed velvet, featuring a raised pattern created by heat and pressure, is perfect for crafting stylish handbags or clutches. Ciselé velvet, with its sculptural, embossed effect, can be utilized to make eye-catching hats or headpieces.


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Judy
Judy

Great article. Thank you