{"id":36413,"date":"2017-06-28T13:17:02","date_gmt":"2017-06-28T17:17:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/?p=36413"},"modified":"2018-01-06T02:13:31","modified_gmt":"2018-01-06T07:13:31","slug":"how-to-sew-slant-pocket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/how-to-sew-slant-pocket\/","title":{"rendered":"Walking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Two: Slant Pocket and Zipper"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/noscript>This is the second part of the walking short sew along.<\/a>\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper.<\/p>\nThe slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish we had when pockets are missing on a pair of pants.<\/p>\nBelow, I am showing you the fashion fabric project as well as the mockup in white and using black thread so you can see the stitching more clearly.<\/p>\nThe steps below continue on from Part One of the sew along: \u00a0Walking Shorts Pattern & Sew Along \u2013 Part One<\/a><\/p>\nWalking Shorts Pattern & Sew-Along \u2013 Part One<\/a><\/h2>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\n\nStep Three: \u00a0Attaching the Slant Pockets<\/h2>\nApply a small amount of fusible interfacing<\/a> along the opening of the pockets on the wrong side of the print.<\/noscript><\/p>\nLay the front of the pants prints side up.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish we had when pockets are missing on a pair of pants.<\/p>\n
Below, I am showing you the fashion fabric project as well as the mockup in white and using black thread so you can see the stitching more clearly.<\/p>\n
The steps below continue on from Part One of the sew along: \u00a0Walking Shorts Pattern & Sew Along \u2013 Part One<\/a><\/p>\nWalking Shorts Pattern & Sew-Along \u2013 Part One<\/a><\/h2>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\n\nStep Three: \u00a0Attaching the Slant Pockets<\/h2>\nApply a small amount of fusible interfacing<\/a> along the opening of the pockets on the wrong side of the print.<\/noscript><\/p>\nLay the front of the pants prints side up.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\n\nStep Three: \u00a0Attaching the Slant Pockets<\/h2>\nApply a small amount of fusible interfacing<\/a> along the opening of the pockets on the wrong side of the print.<\/noscript><\/p>\nLay the front of the pants prints side up.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Apply a small amount of fusible interfacing<\/a> along the opening of the pockets on the wrong side of the print.<\/noscript><\/p>\nLay the front of the pants prints side up.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Lay the front of the pants prints side up.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Place front facing\u00a0of the pockets aligning it with the slant pocket. \u00a0Print side down. I have marked an X to\u00a0represent the wrong side. \u00a0Sew at whatever seam allowance\u00a0you have chosen. \u00a0If you are doing a mockup, sew at 5\/8″ where the pins are located, keep a strict seam allowance.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\nSeparate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Separate the pocket from the pants and iron the seam allowance away from the pocket.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/noscript>Place the other side of the pocket print side down.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/noscript>Sew around the pocket starting at the waist ending at the hips.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript>Topstitch the pocket opening to keep the pocket from losing shape.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/noscript>Use the serger to clean the seam allowance on the pocket.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nIron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/h2>\nStep Four: \u00a0Sewing the Fly Front<\/h2>\nFor the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\nThis video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Iron the pockets with an iron cloth on top.<\/p>\n
For the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper, the tutorial is already been created and it is on Youtube.<\/p>\n
This video shows you the easiest way to attach a fly front zipper.<\/a>\u00a0 I must say this technique\u00a0is mostly used on the skirts and the easiest version to use. \u00a0Many\u00a0of the commercial patterns, with the exception\u00a0of Vogue, will have you used this technique. \u00a0I have given you a pattern that is the simplest to use. \u00a0Very similar to the one on the video except for the little tab on the right of the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nPlace the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Place the two fronts of the pants together. \u00a0Since you have added seam allowance to your pattern, you are going to sew the crotch, not including the zipper tab and the legs as shown in the picture below.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Take the tabs or packets (as they are officially called) and cut 2″ on the fabric you are using. \u00a0The pattern says one but you\u00a0really HAVE TO CUT TWO<\/strong>. \u00a0Apply fusible interfacing<\/a>, one side will have a button and the other the buttonhole.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nSerge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Serge the edge on one except the top and fold the other one in half and serge the raw sides except the top.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
We are going to remove the placket (tab) but leave the seam allowance. \u00a0Take the open one and place on the right leg (left on the picture) on top of the zipper opening print side down. \u00a0Prints are facing each other.\n<\/noscript>\u00a0From the stitching leave the seam allowance and cut off the rest.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nTake this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Take this opportunity to serge or zigzag the seam allowance, after attaching the zipper it will be almost impossible to do it and you will be left with a frayed seam allowance.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nIf you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
If you do not have a serger or an overlocker fold over the zigzag edge and topstitch matching the thread as close to the fabric as possible. \u00a0Shown in the picture below in black stitching.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\nFold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Fold the tab in the direction of the seam allowance and iron. \u00a0Fold back under and topstitch as close to the edge as possible.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/p>\nWe will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
We will attach the zipper next. \u00a0For that, we have to repeat the step to eliminate the zipper placket (tab) and leaving only the seam allowance.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript>Notice I have serge the seam allowance as before.<\/p>\nStep Five: Attaching the Zipper<\/h2>\nFor the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
For the next step, you will need the zipper and the zipper placket (I call it tab). \u00a0Mark 3\/8″ on the placket. \u00a0<\/noscript> You will need to place the zipper over that line. \u00a0In other words, you will be sewing exactly in the middle of the zipper tape. \u00a0For that, you need to place the zipper 1\/8″ from the folded edge of the placket (tab).<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript>Using a hand needle baste the zipper in place, or simply place the left leg zipper opening on top and sew. \u00a0Align the edge of the zipper foot with the fabric to produce a straight stitch 1\/8″ from the edge.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript>Bring the left on the picture (right leg of the pants) over the topstitching and place a pin on top.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript>Flip the right leg (left on the picture) over the left one to expose the zipper and sew it to the placket without sewing it to the front<\/strong> of the pants. (this bit is tricky) but if you remember not to sew the front of the pants you will do it right. \u00a0As before,\u00a0sew exactly in the middle of the zipper tape.<\/p>\nFinally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Finally, place the pants print side up, open the zipper and spread the sides apart. \u00a0Sew the stitching on the outside sewing down the placket (tab) without sewing the other placket on the other side of the pants.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript>At the end join the two plackets together and reinforce.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript>Shown here on the wrong side of the pants. \u00a0On your walking shorts, you can cut off the zipper so it will not show at all.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
<\/noscript><\/p>\nNote:<\/h2>\nWhat is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\nThe technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\nStep Six: Sewing the Pleats and Attaching the Back to the Front<\/h2>\nFold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
What is the difference between the two techniques for attaching a fly front zipper? \u00a0On the technique I just showed you the zipper will be covered by fabric and the stitching line is the industry standard from the edge 1 3\/8″ for men and 1 1\/4″ for \u00a0women.<\/p>\n
The technique in the video is approximately \u00a01\/2″ and the zipper will be exposed on the wrong side of the fabric this is why it is mostly used on skirts and shorts with thin fabrics.<\/p>\n
Fold the pleats to the sides or towards the pocket and stay stitch the top of the front so the pleats do not move when you are trying the shorts on.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript>Note: \u00a0Before you sew the front and back I suggest you serge the seam allowance at the crotch. \u00a0Do not reduce the seam allowance.<\/p>\nLay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\nSew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\nSew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\nFinally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Lay the front of the shorts print side up. \u00a0Lay the back print side down.<\/p>\n
Sew the outsides from waist to hem.<\/p>\n
Sew the inner sides from crotch to hem.<\/p>\n
Finally, sew the crotch keeping the seam allowances open.<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/noscript><\/p>\nSerging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\nThis is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n <\/p>\nJoin me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\nWalking Shorts Sew-Along –Part Three: Waistband & Fly Front Zipper<\/h1>\n<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Serging all the seams open and sewing the crotch last allows you to be able to alter the garment in the future. It is the difference between a tailored and a mass produced garment.<\/p>\n
This is the end of Part Two.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Join me on Part Three shortly. \u00a0We will be drafting and sewing a waistband. \u00a0In addition, I will be adding more tips for the final fitting. \u00a0As always send in your comments, suggestions, and questions, Until Next time!<\/p>\n
<\/noscript><\/a><\/p>\nGo to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Go to Part 3 Now<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
This is the second part of the walking short sew along.\u00a0 In this post, we will be working on the slant pocket and the front zipper. The slant pocket is the “darling” of pockets. \u00a0It is easy to make, slimming and practical. \u00a0It is the type of pocket we wish \u2026 Continue reading → <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":308,"featured_media":36741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","wds_primary_category":0},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/308"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36413"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":42165,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36413\/revisions\/42165"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/so-sew-easy.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}