You know sometimes how you look about and everyone seems to be wearing the same thing, the same styles, the same colors? That's especially true on a small island where there are only a few places you can buy clothes anyway, so it's no wonder everyone has the same pieces. So I set out to make myself a dress. Something I could wear to dinner, or if I had to go somewhere smart, or heaven-forbid, ever get a job!
I was really liking the Simple Shrug pattern and wanted to see if I could incorporate the idea into a dress because I think it gives a really flattering look by having the fabric fall from the bust, making the waist look smaller – or at least I hope so! I'm very rectangular through the waist, so anything that draws attention to the bust is a plus for me.
The Cross My Heart Dress – This dress has crossover pleated drapes from the shoulders that are caught into the side seams just under the arms. It creates a modest v-neckline and frames the face, hanging loose from the bust to emphasize the smaller waist. It's certainly unique! I'll never come across another one like it – unless some of you sew it and then visit the Cayman Islands. That would make my day!
Plus, it's a very quick and simple sew. Bonus!
Features:
- Quick and easy to sew
- Figure skimming fit
- Pleated crossover drapes from the shoulders
- Longer length – pick your own skirt length
- Center back seam to help get a nice fit
- Short sleeves
- Sizes 29- 41 bust, 33-45 inch hips
- For knit fabrics only – I used a ITY knit (Read more about different types of knit fabrics here.)
- Fabric needed for all sizes – 2 yards
You can download the pattern from my design account on Payhip. Add it to your cart and check out - its FREE. The pattern will be saved in your Pattern Library safely until you are ready to sew, then you can download and print it at any time.
How to sew your ‘Cross My Heart' free easy dress pattern
1/2 inch seam allowances throughout unless stated otherwise.
Cut out your pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric, with the front on the fold.
Turn a narrow 1/4 inch hem on the top and bottom curved edges of the front drapes and stitch close to the edge. Press. Set aside.
Optional – add a piece of tricot interfacing to the center front to reinforce the V at the neckline.
Add a 1/4 inch snip at center front and then turn a narrow hem up each side of the center front and stitch close to the edge. Press.
Join the center back seam. Turn down the back neckline in a smooth curve and stitch. Press.
Add the front drapes to the shoulders. Line up the inside seamed edges, then line up the outer edge of the drape 1/2 inch inside the outer edge of the shoulder. This 1/2 inch is the seam allowance where the sleeve will be sewn.
Create 3 even pleats in the fabric and pin them in place.
Place the dress back over the front, RST, and match the shoulders. Repin through all layers and pleats. Stitch through all layers. Reduce the bulk in the seam by trimming the pleated layer. Press the completed seam towards the back.
Repeat for the other shoulder.
Match the center top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Ease in sleeve, pin, and stitch. Take care NOT to catch the fabric from the front drape in the sleeve seam allowance. It should only be caught at the shoulder seam. Repeat for the other side.
Take the front drapes across the front of the dress, taking care not to twist them, and pin into the side seams matching the top of the drape at the point under the arm.
Baste the drapes into the side seam of the dress front, within the seam allowance.
Pin the side seams and check for fit. Make alterations as necessary.
Pin and stitch side seams. Press.
Finish the bottom of the sleeves – twin needle finish is optional. You may also simply turn in a 1/2-inch hem and stitch.
Check for length and finish the bottom hemline with your favorite finish.
Give the dress a final press and it's ready to wear.
You can download the pattern from my design account on Payhip. Add it to your cart and check out - its FREE. The pattern will be saved in your Pattern Library safely until you are ready to sew, then you can download and print it at any time.
What material is that? Do you remember where you bought it?
This is an ITY knit that I bought from Fabric Mart. It’s no longer in stock, but they do have lots of other great ITY knit fabrics that would work well for this dress.
You are ROCKIN’ that dress! Love your dress and choice of fabric.
I adore this material – can you remember the details of it?? Thanks.
I got this from Fabric Mart Fabrics. But they tend to have one-off fabrics rather than a long-standing set of stock, so this is now sold out. Sorry.
Hi, I just finished this dress. I had some knit material at home, got this blog at 5:30 am, started cutting out by 6 am. Had to do some adjustments, then started sewing. Used my dress form to get a perfect fit. I finished it at 1:15 pm. It is the first dress I made myself since I lost 120 pounds. I love how it shows my waist, and I did make it a little roomier in the hips, so it follows and shows off my new figure perfectly. I like how the draping makes my “girls” seem proportional to the rest of my body. After all, they always lose the most, lol. Thank you, thank you, and thank you for helping me make my first dress. It was so exciting to not sew just a rectangle, but something with a shape. Hubby is taking me out tonight to show off my new dress.
congratulations on your weight loss – I bet your hubby is also showing YOU off!
I love this dress! Does it look as nice on bodies not as perfect as yours? I have no waist anymore. I don’t know where it went. I wonder if this would help make it look like I do.
I’m pretty square through the waist too and have to be careful what designs I make or buy, or I look like a brick in a dress! By adding the drapes from the bust, it automatically seems to make the waist look smaller because it emphasizes the measurement difference. But it is quite fitted in the waist and hips to help with this look.
the dress is very attractive
I think I will have to try that. It is really lovely and figure flattering.
I was just looking for a dress pattern I could modify to make nursing my LO discrete and simple. I think this is it! And the best part is that it won’t be obvious its a nursing dress so I can keep wearing it after too 🙂 Thanks so much for sharing this pattern!
That’s exactly what I thought when I saw the picture! I’d love to know how you go with your modifications 🙂
Thanks for sharing the pattern free. Not many would do that. I love the dress and hope it looks half as good on me.
it’s a lovely dress and the print ia nice
I like a longer length. I’m thinking I need a wider skirt. What do you think?
Yes, if you are going for a much longer skirt, like a maxi, then you will need to flare out the skirt to give yourself more walking space, or add a slit in center back.
Just downloaded this awesome dress. I am still floored by your talent after such a short time. Now you are a designer – I’m so envious! Thank you though for sharing your talent with us. You are truly an inspiration!
Blush – wow thanks Liza. It’s absolutely my pleasure to do this.
This is one for my brand new sewing circle class. A couple of ladies in the neighbourhood decided to come together every fortnight and sew together.
We were looking for a patters that everybody could make. This will be one of them.
This will be my first dress made from a pattern.
I made already 2 from an old dress that fitted as gold and I ripped the seams completely. That was the perfect pattern 😉
On this pattern hips are fine for me but I need to put 1/2′ extra at waist and bust – even on the G pattern)
Love this , going to make it for my 5oth party as I was 19 when I last made a dress I will follow your easy to understand instructions. Thanks debs. X
I’d love to see how it turns out Julie. Will you share a photo?
This is so pretty Deby, thank you for sharing! Definitely on my to-do list once my other bits and pieces are done! 🙂
What a gorgeous dress – it looks fantastic on you – hope it looks half as good on me when I make it 🙂 Thanks for the pattern Deby, you are extremely generous.
This dress looks terrific on you! I can’t wait to try it.
What a great dress, very flattering, you have inspired me to start making dresses again. Thank you
I’d love to try this amazing dress,Deby, but I’m a just-plus size. Larger sizes would be so gratefully received.Thank you for all the patterns you have given away for free- that doesn’t happen very often online.
I’m with Aless…has anyone done this in a plus, or just-plus size version? 🙂
I am a little bit of both. My bust is 41, my waist is 34, my hips are 46. I was able to increase the pattern enough to accommodate everything. I used Nancy Zieman’s method of increasing the area for my hips with the Pivot and slide method. In fact, when buying patterns, I fit my bust for dresses and blouses, and my hips for pants and skirts. I find it easier to adjust the waist, or hips over the bust area. For all plus size ladies, get a dress form. There are tons of do-it-yourself methods on the web. Until I got mine, I didn’t realize how broad my back was. (I say was, as I have lost 115 pounds, thereby getting the measurments above. Still have 20 to go, hopefully all in my hips)
The dress turned out beautifully, and as soon as I can, I will post a picture.
The first time I looked over the pattern, I noticed there was a part that showed what the pieces all laid out were to look like. Now, for the life of me, cannot find this again. Could you tell me where it is, that I might know how to lay out the pieces? thanks so much. Looks like I am starting off bad, right?
The layout is on the top left hand side of page 3 of the instructions. That shows what the pattern should look like once assembled.
The pieces are all numbered too, so they come out of the printer in the right order and should be laid out with 6 pages per row. Hope that helps, and sorry I wasn’t able to reply right away – I’ve been sewing!
ThIs dress is beautiful and you look so good in it. I wish I had half your talent. From what you have said not a lot of choice of fashion where you live. With your talent you could set up your own business making unique clothes. I bet they would be queuing at the door.
Ah but then I would have to deal with customers. I don’t have the patience for that!
Very nice Deby – and you look great in it. I downloaded the pattern for a new spring dress!
Wow, hot mama! Have you lost weight? Beautiful dress.
I don’t wear dresses any more but this one really suits you – well done 🙂
Just made a copy of the instructions, and can’t wait to sew it! Thanks so much.. Did you use your new serger on it?
I used a bit of a combination, some with the regular machine but the center back and side seams with the serger. Had to adjust the differential feed just a notch, and it came out great! I was nervous though about cutting off the seam allowances, but loved how it turned out on the inside – very neat, just like a ‘proper’ dress!
Beautiful!! You’ve done a great job. This looks very comfortable and slimming. Thanks for all you do. This looks perfect for spring.
I love the look of this dress. I am soo pleased you have made a dress with sleeves pattern too. I was wondering how to add sleeves to the twisty dress, but now a dress WITH STYLE, and sleeves. I shall be off to the market to buy some fabric at the weekend, hopefully. Show you when Ive done it.
Great Jean, I’m looking forward to seeing what you make of it.
Hi Deby, another awesome tutorial. This dress looks great on you. Such a versatile pattern.
Thanks so much for sharing. Val
I was thinking, “That Deby, she had lost some weight.” , when I read the part where you said it makes you look thinner. I need three of these dresses!
I have lost a few pounds as well this year, but by having the drapes stand out from the body like that, it makes the torso and waist look smaller in comparison I think. I’m loving mine!
Fantastic. Love it. Next project for me!!!!
Deby you have outdone yourself again! It is so gratifying to find a designer who caters for the more mature of us, your styles are absolutely fabulous. Can´t wait to get my sewing room in order to start sewing. Thank you dear Deby, you are a star!
Thank YOU Rosemary. It makes me happy to hear that you like it. Can’t wait to see yours.
Woohoo!!! You look fabulous, Deby!!! A very flattering style.
Deby, this dress is wonderful, and is so flattering on you!
This is fabulous. Love it! Very flattering
Cool pattern, Deby, I love this one!
Great dress. It could easily be changed into a nursing dress/top. Back when my kids were babies I had a similar nursing top that I loved.
That’s a great idea, it would be ideal for that.
Another lovely pattern? Thank you so much! I really like the way it looks on you in that fabric. It’s a gorgeous combo pattern & fabric.
Thanks so much. 🙂
I wish you had a larger size range. This looks lovely.
Wow, that is stunning! It looks fantastic on you! This is going on the “to sew list”.
Great design!
Thanks so much, I think this could be a flattering style for a lot of body shapes.
Wowza, I love it. I’ve not made myself a dress for ages and was just thinking it’s about time. This could be the one. Thanks