Pulling on a pair of vintage 1980s pleated shorts (sharkstooth print, no less), I found myself thanking the fashion gods that the best of fashions always keep coming back for a revival, thank goodness for retro style! The pleated high waist, which was a no-no for so long, finally acceptable to wear again and I’m grateful, so comfortable and so practical!
The Wandering Waistline
Consider for a moment, the insanely low waistline of the hipster pants and jeans from the late ’90s and early ’00s, the inevitable plumber’s bottom, and the hassle of making sure that your undies (which tended to end up sticking out) didn’t have sheep or anything else ridiculous printed on them. To think that that was perfectly acceptable and yet a picture of 1980s pleated pants at the time looked totally unsavory and rather hilarious, someone actually wearing them was considered tragically uncool. It’s strange how we change and how fashion changes with us, hopefully for the better!
Now the high-waisted skirt and trousers are back and reasonably acceptable to wear again, whilst you’ll be hard-pressed to find a low-cut hipster in any store!
The whole experience really got me thinking about the waistline, such an integral element of fashion, the way it varies over time and place, and really how important the waistline style is to the fashion movement as a whole. I thought it would be a good idea to take a look at different waistline styles, what body types they flatter, and where they fit into the fashion spectrum.
Basque / Antebellum / V-shaped Waistline:
Here’s a waistline that’s perfect for those curvaceous pear-shaped or hourglass-shaped ladies. This classic waistline is usually reserved for ball gowns and wedding dresses and lengthens the torso whilst the full skirts normally associated with it will hide a multitude of chocolate-induced sins (like serious hips and bottoms). With the bottom of the V or U well below the belly, between the hips, this style works better with a flat tummy, although the stiff material of the bodice might do well to cover those extra lumps and bumps as well.
Dropped / Drop Waistline:
Now, this waistline we don’t really see too often in everyday fashion, maybe the fashion cycle has yet to bring this one back in full force. Think 1920s, long cigarette holder, the wavy bob, and the feather headband, and then you’ll know what a dropped waistline is. We do still see this in ballgowns and wedding dresses, usually with a full skirt. This waistline lies at the mid or upper hip and works best on slim women who are looking to gain the impression of height or women with an hourglass figure…but if you already have a long torso, stay away from this style.
Empire Waistline:
This everyday and formal favorite sits just below the bust, usually with a skirt cascading straight down from it. This style accentuates the bust and hides fat tummies, giving an impression of height and slimness…not to be worn if you have a hefty bust as it really does make the ladies look larger!
Raised Waistline:
A horizontal waist about an inch above the natural waist, this line is often confused with the Empire line, which falls just a little higher, right beneath the breasts. This style lengthens the legs, curves the hips, and shortens the torso. This effect also applies to mid and high-waisted trousers. This won’t look good if you have a short torso or buxom hips!
Diagonal / Asymmetrical Waistline:
An interesting style, most often seen in formal, wedding, and office wear. Running diagonally across the waistline, this line is above the waist on one side and below the waist on the other. This waistline slims down a larger figure but won’t look right on a short person as it really cuts the figure in half.
Inverted V / U Shape Waistline:
This style, also mostly seen in office and formal wear, wedding, and ballgowns, shortens a long torso and lengthens short legs.
Natural Waistline:
A horizontal waistline, falling directly on the natural waist. Arguably the most comfortable of waistlines, for both a two-piece ensemble, like trousers and a top, and a dress…the waist is where the body naturally bends and it makes sense that the narrowest point should be there. This waistline looks great on all body types as it enhances all natural curves, except for the apple-shaped figure, where the waistline is the largest point. Extra-tall women appear shorter with a natural waistline because of the way it divides the figure.
No Waistline:
These dresses are sewn together in panels and have no waistline at all. They are suitable for any body type and create a slimming effect.
Wedding dresses and ball gowns are one thing…but it's really in our everyday street fashion that the wandering waistline strikes me the most.
Consider the wandering waistline on men's trousers for instance, which reaches its lowest point at the age of about 16 years old (where the boxers must be seen and the pants held up with one hand, goodness forbid), it falls across the natural waistline in the late 20's and the 30's, after which the real waistline is never seen again as pants reach up, as high as just 7 inches below the armpit for gentlemen in their 70's and upward…a known fact.
Indeed, fashion is a funny thing, influenced by not just time and place but a wealth of other factors and it's exciting just to wonder…” what on earth is coming next?”
Love your drawings and explanations of body types that will or will not look good.
Raised/no waistband pants have always looked good on me. I’m a costumer; I always have a hard time convincing the young women in our theatre company where their natural waist is!
I like pants slightly below the natural waistline, and natural waistline on dresses.
I am short at 5′ and I hav always loved the empire waist style. It is very comfortable for me.
I am soooo glad the low waist is going out of style! I teach junior high and I’ve seen more crack and polka dotted undies than any person ever should! I really don’t know how they’re comfortable! Give me a natural waistline!
It seems to me that “natural” waistlines are creeping upwards on commercially made dresses. I also see that in new pattern purchases. I am an avid sewer, and have always adjusted patterns according to my back-waist length (as my dear mother taught me) — I find that when I use one of the “vintage” patterns from my stash the waistline falls where I want it to, bur when I use a recently purchased pattern I must lengthen the bodice pieces of the pattern (even though the back-waist length printed on the pattern envelope says it’s what I want it to be). At least with a skirt and top the waistline falls where I want it to be, so maybe that’s where I’m headed wardrobe-wise!!
Clear and effective explanation , really useful. I tend to favour natural waistline now but loved the dropped waist dresses when I was younger .
This was a very informative and interesting blog post. Liked it a lit
I prefer the natural waistline, although I’ve work empire on occasion. No waistline works well for ‘relax mode’.
This post was really informative and I may venture out and try some of the other variations listed here for my body type in the future.
Natural waist feels best… But since I have a looong torso and short legs, I’m gonna change it up next time based on your article. Thanks!
I like a drop waist best – so easy hide figure flaws.
Thank you for explaining the difference between the raised and empire waistlines. I have hear both and this clears things up a bit.
Great job explaining all of the different styles – many bring back fond memories
loved the diagrams – what a great way to show us – so easy to follow.
I always favored a natural waistline in my younger days as i liked to show off my slender but curvy figure, but in my forties and as I have Lupus and have become my weight fluctuates from skinny as a rail to juuust a tad plump for me I bounce around between them natural, no waistline (love no waistine dresses in the summer!) and raised waistine (hiding a little pooch juuuust enouch under that dress). Its great to be able to just change my waistine in my clothing to adapt to my body changes because of steroids and chemo and other treatments and just plain being sick by sitting down in my sewing studio and quickly whipping out a maxi dress or new top to accommodate my needs, and I look and feel so much better!
I am one that liked the slightly lower waistlines on jeans. But not so much that undies show when I bent over! But for my body type that style was comfortable to wear. I prefer a natural waist for a dress.
Thank you for this article, Mayra! The silhouette sketches are most clarifying. I also loved your point about men’s waistlines!! Why anyone would ever want to have to dedicate one hand to holding up their pants is beyond me!!
I believe an empire waist works best on me.
This is really, really helpful. I’m sharing it with lots of people!
I wear dresses with empire waist or raised waist, but lately I’ve been wearing skirts at my natural waistline.
This was so informative and helpful. Thank you!
I find the empire, raised and natural waistlines look the most flattering on me depending on skirt style, fabric, ect.
Since I have a tummy, I prefer the empire or raised waistline. They are very forgiving!!!
Love your article. I’m a low waistline person for pants and natural for skirts.
So…will jeans that sit higher at the waist lose the “MOM Jeans” designation?
I didn’t even realize there was a difference between raised and empire waistlines; I thought it was the same. Maybe because they look funny on me – I prefer between natural and low (although, like you mentioned, it is creeping up with age!).
I love an empire waist. It is by far the most comfortable and flattering on me.
Great info! Love the empire waist – never seems to go out of style.
Haha, I’m so glad I’m not the only one with sheep on my underwear. 🙂
I’m short (5’3″), apple shaped with large “ladies” (love that term!). Finding jeans or trousers that fit properly is difficult. If they fit in the hips, they’re too tight at the waist. And, conversely, if they fit at the waist they’re too loose in the hips. I’m finding myself living in jeggings and elastic waist skirts. Any suggestions?
Raised or natural waistline.
The worst waistline on me is the natural! Large bust, wide hips, very small, narrow waist.
I prefer the high waisted bottoms, but a natural waist for dresses.
I enjoyed seeing the different variations. As I’ve gotten older and my waist has tended to “disappear”, I don’t look as good in the natural waistline anymore. I tend to wear a slightly raised waistline for dresses and natural for pants.
I am short (5′ 4″) and I’m broad shouldered with medium-sized busts, average waist and narrow hips. It’s hard for me to find a dress that fits/looks nice. A sheath is about the only type I can wear, but to fit from the waist down I’m smashed in at the top. Everything else makes me look squatty. 🙁
Those low hipster pants drove me crazy! I work with small children, so I spend a lot of time on the floor and low-waisted pants are not good for that! I prefer a natural waisline, though on a dress a raised waistline is quite nice too.
I’ve always loved the empire style.
Raised, I mean – also called empire!
I prefer the natural waistline.
Because I have so many of the shapes described above, I don’t know which waistline would be best for me.
Thank you for the details on each silhouette! The empire & raised waistlines have confused me. Would you say a dress with a band, belt or sash under the bust is considered a raised waistline?
Hi Carolyne, great question. I would say if it is under the bust, it would be Empire.
I prefer the natural waistline, although I do prefer a raised waistline for trousers. Never liked low waistline garments, I always feel like they’re falling off!