Pulling on a pair of vintage 1980s pleated shorts (sharkstooth print, no less), I found myself thanking the fashion gods that the best of fashions always keep coming back for a revival, thank goodness for retro style! The pleated high waist, which was a no-no for so long, finally acceptable to wear again and I’m grateful, so comfortable and so practical!
The Wandering Waistline
Consider for a moment, the insanely low waistline of the hipster pants and jeans from the late ’90s and early ’00s, the inevitable plumber’s bottom, and the hassle of making sure that your undies (which tended to end up sticking out) didn’t have sheep or anything else ridiculous printed on them. To think that that was perfectly acceptable and yet a picture of 1980s pleated pants at the time looked totally unsavory and rather hilarious, someone actually wearing them was considered tragically uncool. It’s strange how we change and how fashion changes with us, hopefully for the better!
Now the high-waisted skirt and trousers are back and reasonably acceptable to wear again, whilst you’ll be hard-pressed to find a low-cut hipster in any store!
The whole experience really got me thinking about the waistline, such an integral element of fashion, the way it varies over time and place, and really how important the waistline style is to the fashion movement as a whole. I thought it would be a good idea to take a look at different waistline styles, what body types they flatter, and where they fit into the fashion spectrum.
Basque / Antebellum / V-shaped Waistline:
Here’s a waistline that’s perfect for those curvaceous pear-shaped or hourglass-shaped ladies. This classic waistline is usually reserved for ball gowns and wedding dresses and lengthens the torso whilst the full skirts normally associated with it will hide a multitude of chocolate-induced sins (like serious hips and bottoms). With the bottom of the V or U well below the belly, between the hips, this style works better with a flat tummy, although the stiff material of the bodice might do well to cover those extra lumps and bumps as well.
Dropped / Drop Waistline:
Now, this waistline we don’t really see too often in everyday fashion, maybe the fashion cycle has yet to bring this one back in full force. Think 1920s, long cigarette holder, the wavy bob, and the feather headband, and then you’ll know what a dropped waistline is. We do still see this in ballgowns and wedding dresses, usually with a full skirt. This waistline lies at the mid or upper hip and works best on slim women who are looking to gain the impression of height or women with an hourglass figure…but if you already have a long torso, stay away from this style.
Empire Waistline:
This everyday and formal favorite sits just below the bust, usually with a skirt cascading straight down from it. This style accentuates the bust and hides fat tummies, giving an impression of height and slimness…not to be worn if you have a hefty bust as it really does make the ladies look larger!
Raised Waistline:
A horizontal waist about an inch above the natural waist, this line is often confused with the Empire line, which falls just a little higher, right beneath the breasts. This style lengthens the legs, curves the hips, and shortens the torso. This effect also applies to mid and high-waisted trousers. This won’t look good if you have a short torso or buxom hips!
Diagonal / Asymmetrical Waistline:
An interesting style, most often seen in formal, wedding, and office wear. Running diagonally across the waistline, this line is above the waist on one side and below the waist on the other. This waistline slims down a larger figure but won’t look right on a short person as it really cuts the figure in half.
Inverted V / U Shape Waistline:
This style, also mostly seen in office and formal wear, wedding, and ballgowns, shortens a long torso and lengthens short legs.
Natural Waistline:
A horizontal waistline, falling directly on the natural waist. Arguably the most comfortable of waistlines, for both a two-piece ensemble, like trousers and a top, and a dress…the waist is where the body naturally bends and it makes sense that the narrowest point should be there. This waistline looks great on all body types as it enhances all natural curves, except for the apple-shaped figure, where the waistline is the largest point. Extra-tall women appear shorter with a natural waistline because of the way it divides the figure.
No Waistline:
These dresses are sewn together in panels and have no waistline at all.  They are suitable for any body type and create a slimming effect.
Wedding dresses and ball gowns are one thing…but it's really in our everyday street fashion that the wandering waistline strikes me the most.
Consider the wandering waistline on men's trousers for instance, which reaches its lowest point at the age of about 16 years old (where the boxers must be seen and the pants held up with one hand, goodness forbid), it falls across the natural waistline in the late 20's and the 30's, after which the real waistline is never seen again as pants reach up, as high as just 7 inches below the armpit for gentlemen in their 70's and upward…a known fact.
Indeed, fashion is a funny thing, influenced by not just time and place but a wealth of other factors and it's exciting just to wonder…” what on earth is coming next?”
I love the dropped waistline as it reminds me of my younger days.
Information was helpful! I like dropped waistlines but with a tummy pouch I definitely need to wear a control panel or spanx.
Great article!
Informative! I like the dropped waistline best. Thank you 🙂
Very informative
I prefer natural or empire. Otherwise I look too short or squat.
I actually never knew this about waistlines. No wonder I end up looking short and fat lol!
I now know why my maxi dress looks good though!
Thank you for the visuals.
Very interesting to consider how many variations of a “waist” there are in clothes.
I am a fan of he empire waist. Hides that tummy fat better than some of the others.
Great informative article thankyou
I prefer not to have one at all or to have a dropped waist line
I like the natural waist.
I think that fashion trends are ever revolvin. You can look classic as long as it fits superbly and suits you…. you should be able to wear it drop, natural, inverted…whatever.
Well written and beautifully explained. Will be able to use this information to help choose more flattering styles
Very interesting to see and read how the different waistlines affects how a dress will look on different body types.
I prefer the natural waist
I like the natural waistline
Thank you for the informative article!
I’m glad they have the waistline where it’s suppose to be….only cause mine hangs over…lol
I am also so insanely glad to high waist is back!!! I was definitely born about 20 years too late…
These are the kind of posts I love reading. I learn something. Off to search for some Empire waist patterns to make the girls look bigger. Thanks, Mayra!
I always loved a dropped waist line, but as I get older I prefer NO waistline! LOL Great contest…thank you!
As I’m short and short waisted, I actually prefer no waistline. However a slightly dropped waist is good on me.
Being short actually go for no waistline if possible.
Nice comparison! I’m a natural waistline person, myself.
I live empire waistlines, but sometimes I actually feel like they make my tummy look bigger. I’ve recently been sewing more items with a natural waist.
I didn’t know their were so many waistlines
Great reading. Thanks for the trip back through my memories of various waistlines.
Oh, natural!
This is a great article. Thank you for taking time out to show the difference and explain how they can be flattering.
I like the empire or natural .
I love empire and raised waistlines for the most flattering look on myself. Learning more about seeing knits and such so I am make clothes that fit my body type and crazy sense of style
I really never thought about waistlines before. It doesn’t sound like there are many that look good on an apple shape, lol
I don’t follow trends as far as my clothing much. I wear what is comfortable for me. I am probably a designers worst nightmare. lol For pants, I tend to wear them with a slightly raised waist, but for dresses I prefer something closer to an Empire Waist.
Great article ! Lots of things to think about, I too wonder where fashion will go next !
I have enjoyed making patterns using various waist lines
I enjoy seeing articles about this kind of thing. Thanks for the information.
I PREFER THE DROPPED WASIT. GOOD ARTICLE
I don’t think a like just one particular waistline. It really depends on the fabric I’m using, pattern, etc…. Although, the dropped waist is pretty 😛
Great article and interesting observations regarding waistlines and body shapes. I’ve always had a large bust and generally have to avoid wearing empire and raised/elevated waist dresses or I’ll be asked “when are you due?”