Culottes, one of the most trendy styles of the 50's and 60's, are back! Culottes are flared pants or shorts that can often look like a skirt or a dress when you're wearing them. I have been trying to help you build a warm-weather wardrobe that is both easy and practical –and that is easy to make. Here is another free pattern to add to your collection of projects for the summer.
photo credit: Spring and Summer 1955 Lane Bryant via photopin (license)
“Culotte” is a French word that means the lower part of a garment or knee-breeches. They have been fashionable since Henry III made them popular at court in France in the latter part of the 1500s and were worn mostly by the upper class. Later, in the time leading up to the French revolution in the 18th century, the lower classes who wouldn't have worn culottes became known as “sans-culottes” or literally “without short pants” — a term these partisans and revolutionaries embraced as they manned the street barricades.
There are two things I really like about this culottes tutorial and pattern –there is an option of adding front pockets to the pants without adding bulk to the tummy and you can easily transform them into long pants by adding length at the hem.
My choice of fabric is a Jacquard Knit since this pattern is for knits only. For some ideas of the right sort of fabric to use, please check the link below.
Materials
- 1 1/2 yards of knit fabric. You might want to consider these fabrics.
- a ballpoint needle. We use Schmetz.
- stay tape or stretched fusible interfacing.
- a sewing machine. We have a good selection in our store.
- rotary cutter and mat. Fiskars makes a good one.
- a twin needle (optional)
- a serger (optional)
Fabric Recommendations
Pattern sizes
These culottes are in sizes 6 to 22. The Lower Waist measurement relative to the Hips measurement below may appear unusual to some readers, but for this design to fit right, I can assure you it is correct for the knit fabric I am using.
Finished Garment Measurements
| Size | Lower Waist | Hips | Hem Width |
| 6 | 31″ | 52″ | 60″ |
| 8 | 32″ | 53″ | 61″ |
| 10 | 34″ | 54″ | 63″ |
| 12 | 35 1/2″ | 55 1/2″ | 64 1/2″ |
| 14 | 37″ | 57″ | 66″ |
| 16 | 38 1/2″ | 58 1/2″ | 67 1/2″ |
| 18 | 40″ | 60″ | 72″ |
| 20 | 42″ | 62″ | 74″ |
Pattern Pieces
- Two backs
- Two fronts
- Two pockets front
- Two pockets back
- One waistband (not included in the pattern). Please follow instructions on how to cut your waistband.
Features
- These pants look like an A-line skirt or amazing super-elongating silhouette palazzo pants.
- A flattering feature in this pattern is the pockets in the front but they are OPTIONAL.
- Soft waistband that does not add bulk to the tummy area.
- For the girls that do not like to wear pants in summer, this is the perfect style to feel very comfortable and still look like you are wearing a skirt.
- 5/8″ seam allowance in all pattern pieces.
Video Tutorial
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Pattern Layout
Step One: Download the pattern
We're going to continue to use the new Payhip webstore to distribute our patterns.
Our patterns are still free, but now you now have the option of making a small contribution if you like our work! We'd really appreciate it and it will help is keep going with new and fun designs like this. Even a dollar or two really goes a long way.
Thanks so much in advance for helping us out. You can use any credit card and you don't need a Paypal account, although you can use one if you have one.
If you need any help with down How to download and print PDF patterns or How to print and assemble a PDF pattern, please check out the linked tutorials.
Step Two: Cut the fabric
Use a rotary cutter or very sharp scissors and as many pins or weights as you can so your fabric does not move while cutting. Pay special attention to the grain on the fabric indicated in your pattern.
For more guidance on Mistakes to Avoid When Cutting Fabric, please read this guide.
Step Three: Sew the pocket.
We will start by stabilizing the seam and the opening of the pocket by adding fusible interfacing or stay tape. This step is a must because this area will stretch and become baggy if you do not use fusible interfacing.
Place the front pocket piece right side down on the front side of the pants. Prints are going to be facing each other. Sew the front pocket side to the front pants using a 5/8″ seam.
Turn the pant piece print side down and pin the seam allowance to the pocket. Iron and stay stitch the seam allowance to 1/8″ from the seam. Trim the seam allowance, turn the pocket and iron.
Turn the pocket to the inside of the pants as it is going to hang and make two rows of stitches for decoration and for reinforcing the edge of the pocket. You can use your twin needle here as well.
For guidance on How to Use a Twin Needle, please follow this guide.
Do the same to the other pocket.
Trim the seam allowance, turn the pocket and iron.
Change your needle to a twin needle and stay stitch on the right side. The use of a twin needle is optional. To have the same effect without the twin needle just make 2 rows of stitches.
Turn the front side with the pocket you have been working on print side down, place the back side of pocket on top of the front side of the pocket. Sew around the pocket at 5/8″.
Zigzag the edges or use the serger. Please note that many knits do not need the edges to be finished because they do not ravel. If they do, serge them.
Step Four: Assemble the culottes
Sew the two fronts together but stop two inches from the end.
Sew the back pieces the same way, stopping 2 inches from the end.
Sew the sides of the culottes and finish the seam either with a zigzag or a serger.
Sew the inseam and zigzag the edges or use your serger.
Step Five: Check fitting and add the waistband
The pants at the waist should be close to your hips but not tights, there should be no gaps between the waistline and your hipbones. Adjust the pants according to your body, then measure the waist and cut a band 1″ to 1 1/2″ smaller than the measurement.
Fold the band in half. Sew the ends at 5/8″.
Fold the band lengthwise in half.
Mark the middle top and bottom by making a small notch with your scissors.
Pin the band seam to the seam of the back of the culottes and the center mark you did before to the front seam of the pants.
Pull the bands to distribute the stretch of the waistband evenly.
Using a small zigzag, stitch sew the waistband to the culottes. If you have a serger you can finish the seam with it.
Finish the edge with your serger or using a zigzag stitch. And there you have it. Done.
Whether you decide to make the culottes or the palazzo pants you are sure to have an outfit for many occasions. Team them up with a tank top or pretty blouse and you can go anywhere.
Hi! I love your patterns and am anxious to make these coulottes for end of summer wearing. I’m a bit confused as to what size to make, as there is only the finished garment table vs. the body measurement table. I typically make size D in your patterns. And not familiar with where exactly the “lower waist” is as that is not typical measurement. As you’ve noted, there’s quite a range between the hip and waist measurements so not really sure where to begin! Thanks for your insight.
Hi! I am very excited to try this pattern but very confused about which size to make. May sound silly but the finished garment sizes don’t lead me in the right direction…and where exactly is your lower waist. For one of your recent dresses I was size D – can you recommend what size I’d be for the culottes? Thanks so much!
When sewing the front and back pieces together, the instructions say to leave the last 2″ open. When does this opening get sewn shut? Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this! I love the pattern, will probably make myself some from rayon to wear to church. Beautiful!
hola pero no son tallas de adultos es paea niñas,62 cm de cadera no lo entiendo soy de Chile America del Sur ,me esplica lo de 62
Do you have projector files for layout and cutting? I don’t see anything mentioned.
Hi Elsabe, for the moment, we don’t produce our patterns as projector files. We may look at it in the future if more people start using projectors so stay tuned.
Is there a pattern for other material? I have so much trouble sewing the knit fabrics.
I wonder about the waistband. It looks like the culottes are slipping down onto her hips.
I prefer a tighter waist.
I used to have a few pairs of culottes in the past, only one of which was a knit. Your comment about women who don’t want to wear pants in the summer, suddenly had me wondering about a maxi-skirt style set of culottes! I found out the hard way this summer that homemade cloth pantiliners slide all over the place without a pair of pants to hold them in place beyond their own closures! I find shorts and pants too hot in the summer, so I wear summer dresses, preferably with a high scoop or boat neck (can’t stand the plunging necklines most patterns think women want to wear!!!) But summer culottes don’t have to be knits, they can be made of any fabric, firm for office wear looks (had two of these at one point), flowy for summery looks, denim, knits for warmer needs such as fall or early spring. But now I’m sitting here wondering about a maxi-skirt-style pair of culottes. . . with all the fullness of the skirt, as culottes instead. A realtor pastor’s wife I knew used to have long flowing culotte-style pants and wore them every single day!
I remember my mom sewing and making her culottes to wear back in the 50 ‘s because my Dad would not let her wear pants, so this is the way she got away with wearing pants.
wow! it is amazing how much culture has changed! I often wonder where are we going or even if this is a cycle going from one extreme to the next. What do you think?
I am 83 and my mother never let me wear pants except for ice skating and painting rooms in the house. To date, I have never worn pants to work or to church: always dresses, skirts, suits, 3″ heels (but no heels anymore, sad to say). I made most of my clothes. May be old-fashioned but I do not care for a lot of the clothing today. I can’t understand people paying a lot for jeans that have tears in them, etc.
I’m from the original ripped jeans generation. 😄 Honestly, none of my friends nor I could afford to buy ripped jeans, so we just bought jeans from thrift stores that were already torn up and added more rips if necessary.
Thank you so much for the Culotte pattern. Great!!
I have European size 48, which size should I print/cut??
If you are a true hourglass size 14 should be good, however please check your hip size to the size so you can be sure the culottes will go through the widest part of your hips.
If that’s an Italian size 48, you should be ok with a size 12.
Hi
Does this pattern only go to saize 20?
yes, that is right.
Hello, I can’t find it on the site, but are the sizes American or UK? I have measured hips 110cm (43,3″) and lower waist 95cm (37,4″). And it seems that my fabric is stretching diagonal, do you think that will work? I only bought 1,5m (1,9 yards). Thanks for the advice! Greetings, Elyne (Belgium)
Hi, Elyne I think size 12 will for you but the stretch of the fabric needs to be horizontal so when it passes your hips(the widest part) stretches then it recovers to hug your lower waist. Jacquard knit is the best option for these culottes. Watch this video in detail about what fabrics to use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixdTAjl3Etg
Kind Regards,
What are your fabric recommendation for making this in lightweight fabric? How much stretch is ideal for recovery? I have a stock of knit fabrics trying to see what would work best heading into summer.
Hi Danielle, please watch the video I go into detail of what fabric to use and why.Thank you:)
Thank you for coulottes pattern. I made it from cotton even though you recommended knit. We are staying in because of the virus and I had the fabric already. They turned out adorable. I just had to make sure the waist elastic would stretch over my hips.
congratulations! Do you have Instagram? Can you share a photo?
I’d love to try them in woven!! Did you go up a size? Did you make any alterations?
I have always loved culottes. I would love to make some in a light weight woven fabric like chambray or very light denim. Could this pattern be adapted for that or do you already have a pattern for culottes from woven material.
If the difference between the hips and your waist is not so much you can adapt the pattern by adding an invisible zipper. If not, you will have to wait for me to share the woven version.
A pattern version for woven fabrics would be great!
Thank you for the video and the great instructions! I want to make these in a bit longer style for winter. I bought the jacquard fabric and down loaded the pattern.
How wide should I cut the waistband? It looks like maybe 6 inches in the photos?
In the video it says 6.5 inches high for the waistband.
I love the look. So simple to sew. Do you know the name of the fabric and where I could buy it. The fabric enhances the pattern.
Love it
I got it a store in Sydney call Spotlight, It is a jacquard knit.
It would be nice to have pdf instructions to download also, or if there is one – where do we look for it?
These are so stinking cute. Although it is officially fall, here in Texas it is still in the upper 90’s. I think they could also be made from a heavier knit for fall/winter. I will be downloading this pattern, and I will be happy to contribute. I have ordered many patterns from your site.
I noticed thst the culottes do not have elastic in the waist.
How does the waistband keep it’s shape and stay on the body?
The waistband is cut smaller than your waist so it appears that should keep your pants up. Due to varying stretch, I would feel more comfortable with adding elastic.
Thank you for another stylish and easy pattern and tutorial!
Thanks for the pattern and tutorial, I really want to try making some soon. The pedant in my has to mention that “culottes” in modern French means “knickers”! I had some funny looks there when talking about culottes there before I realised what it meant! ” Camisole” is another good one, in French it now means “straight jacket”!
Indeed! Thank you Anna, many will enjoy your comment!