Culottes, one of the most trendy styles of the 50's and 60's, are back! Culottes are flared pants or shorts that can often look like a skirt or a dress when you're wearing them. I have been trying to help you build a warm-weather wardrobe that is both easy and practical –and that is easy to make. Here is another free pattern to add to your collection of projects for the summer.
photo credit: Spring and Summer 1955 Lane Bryant via photopin (license)
“Culotte” is a French word that means the lower part of a garment or knee-breeches. They have been fashionable since Henry III made them popular at court in France in the latter part of the 1500s and were worn mostly by the upper class. Later, in the time leading up to the French revolution in the 18th century, the lower classes who wouldn't have worn culottes became known as “sans-culottes” or literally “without short pants” — a term these partisans and revolutionaries embraced as they manned the street barricades.
There are two things I really like about this culottes tutorial and pattern –there is an option of adding front pockets to the pants without adding bulk to the tummy and you can easily transform them into long pants by adding length at the hem.
My choice of fabric is a Jacquard Knit since this pattern is for knits only. For some ideas of the right sort of fabric to use, please check the link below.
Materials
- 1 1/2 yards of knit fabric. You might want to consider these fabrics.
- a ballpoint needle. We use Schmetz.
- stay tape or stretched fusible interfacing.
- a sewing machine. We have a good selection in our store.
- rotary cutter and mat. Fiskars makes a good one.
- a twin needle (optional)
- a serger (optional)
Fabric Recommendations
Pattern sizes
These culottes are in sizes 6 to 22. The Lower Waist measurement relative to the Hips measurement below may appear unusual to some readers, but for this design to fit right, I can assure you it is correct for the knit fabric I am using.
Finished Garment Measurements
Size | Lower Waist | Hips | Hem Width |
6 | 31″ | 52″ | 60″ |
8 | 32″ | 53″ | 61″ |
10 | 34″ | 54″ | 63″ |
12 | 35 1/2″ | 55 1/2″ | 64 1/2″ |
14 | 37″ | 57″ | 66″ |
16 | 38 1/2″ | 58 1/2″ | 67 1/2″ |
18 | 40″ | 60″ | 72″ |
20 | 42″ | 62″ | 74″ |
Pattern Pieces
- Two backs
- Two fronts
- Two pockets front
- Two pockets back
- One waistband (not included in the pattern). Please follow instructions on how to cut your waistband.
Features
- These pants look like an A-line skirt or amazing super-elongating silhouette palazzo pants.
- A flattering feature in this pattern is the pockets in the front but they are OPTIONAL.
- Soft waistband that does not add bulk to the tummy area.
- For the girls that do not like to wear pants in summer, this is the perfect style to feel very comfortable and still look like you are wearing a skirt.
- 5/8″ seam allowance in all pattern pieces.
Video Tutorial
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Pattern Layout
Step One: Download the pattern
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If you need any help with down How to download and print PDF patterns or How to print and assemble a PDF pattern, please check out the linked tutorials.
Step Two: Cut the fabric
Use a rotary cutter or very sharp scissors and as many pins or weights as you can so your fabric does not move while cutting. Pay special attention to the grain on the fabric indicated in your pattern.
For more guidance on Mistakes to Avoid When Cutting Fabric, please read this guide.
Step Three: Sew the pocket.
We will start by stabilizing the seam and the opening of the pocket by adding fusible interfacing or stay tape. This step is a must because this area will stretch and become baggy if you do not use fusible interfacing.
Place the front pocket piece right side down on the front side of the pants. Prints are going to be facing each other. Sew the front pocket side to the front pants using a 5/8″ seam.
Turn the pant piece print side down and pin the seam allowance to the pocket. Iron and stay stitch the seam allowance to 1/8″ from the seam. Trim the seam allowance, turn the pocket and iron.
Turn the pocket to the inside of the pants as it is going to hang and make two rows of stitches for decoration and for reinforcing the edge of the pocket. You can use your twin needle here as well.
For guidance on How to Use a Twin Needle, please follow this guide.
Do the same to the other pocket.
Trim the seam allowance, turn the pocket and iron.
Change your needle to a twin needle and stay stitch on the right side. The use of a twin needle is optional. To have the same effect without the twin needle just make 2 rows of stitches.
Turn the front side with the pocket you have been working on print side down, place the back side of pocket on top of the front side of the pocket. Sew around the pocket at 5/8″.
Zigzag the edges or use the serger. Please note that many knits do not need the edges to be finished because they do not ravel. If they do, serge them.
Step Four: Assemble the culottes
Sew the two fronts together but stop two inches from the end.
Sew the back pieces the same way, stopping 2 inches from the end.
Sew the sides of the culottes and finish the seam either with a zigzag or a serger.
Sew the inseam and zigzag the edges or use your serger.
Step Five: Check fitting and add the waistband
The pants at the waist should be close to your hips but not tights, there should be no gaps between the waistline and your hipbones. Adjust the pants according to your body, then measure the waist and cut a band 1″ to 1 1/2″ smaller than the measurement.
Fold the band in half. Sew the ends at 5/8″.
Fold the band lengthwise in half.
Mark the middle top and bottom by making a small notch with your scissors.
Pin the band seam to the seam of the back of the culottes and the center mark you did before to the front seam of the pants.
Pull the bands to distribute the stretch of the waistband evenly.
Using a small zigzag, stitch sew the waistband to the culottes. If you have a serger you can finish the seam with it.
Finish the edge with your serger or using a zigzag stitch. And there you have it. Done.
Whether you decide to make the culottes or the palazzo pants you are sure to have an outfit for many occasions. Team them up with a tank top or pretty blouse and you can go anywhere.
What fabric do you use for the summer ? I love this pattern ! Merci
I use a cotton-linen jersey I bought in Lithuania. Might be more expensive but you will have pants for a few summers, So it is worth it.
Thanks you for all help Maya!
Is it possible to idé a woven fabric? Do I need to make any changes then? Love, kjerstin
You can use cotton with some stretch in it but you need to add a zipper on the side.
I have downloaded and printed the pattern as it looks just gorgeous. But as I have scrolled down all comments, no one has mentioned one problem that makes me hesitate to cut it in fabric. There are clearly matching marks both at inner and outer seam, but on the pattern I cant find the one that is supposed to be on pattern page no. 11. Should there not be one?
Best regards, kjerstin
Hello Kjerstin, I am not sure what you mean, the seam allowance is already included, what seams are you referring to? The lines represent the cutting lines.
No, not the seam allowance. I refer to the marks that are for aligning the pattern pieces together. I am not sure my english is good enough to explain this. The matchning märks that are there are small triangles.
I see what you mean. You will have to trim the paper to be able to join the pattern together. The most important is that the lines of the patterns match. This is my favorite pair of pants for summer they are stylish and comfortable.
Oh I am sorry för explaining so badly. Its not about the trimming of the paper. It is the markings on the trouser’s parts. There are small triangles that marks were the trouser’s front and back should fit. One of those are missing, on page 11 I believe. Sorry for troubling you.
HI Kjerstin, in that case pein the top of the pants at the waist and work you way down. The pattern is easy to sew, don’t be afraid. Just follow the tutorial and you will see there is no need to be worried. If you are till hesitant send me a picture with your phone to my email address (mayra@ so-sew-easy.com) and I am happy to have a look. Kind Regards,
why can I never down load your free patterns? I get your mail, I watch your show and I enjoy them both but ….. I’m frustrated with your site.
Do you have a window blocker, and are using adobe reader?
How do I lenghten the culottes, I can’t tell how to do so on the pattern?
I’m still a bit unclear about the sizing. BEFORE adding the waistband, how many inches below the waist do the culottes come? My waist is about 29″ and my ‘hips’, (actually thighs are where my fullness is, about 10″ below the waist) are about 36″. So, what should my size be in a knit with a moderate amount of stretch? thanks
I would try size 8 on this culottes.
I just finished my palazzo pants following your tutorial. So easy and quick. Thank you! They are my first pants and so cool!
I was wondering how you would suggest finishing the hemline of these culottes and what is the hem allowance?
Hi, Carol, the hem allowance is one inch and you can either serge the bottom and use a double needle, use a plain jersey needle to sew the hem if your fabric does not ravel or make a blind stitch.
I know I’m being really dim, but please can you explain how I copy the pattern for the pockets? I can see from the instructions that at least one of the pocket pieces follows the “diagonal” line on the front of the pants rather than following the waist to the “corner”, but are both pocket pieces the same shape? Do I need to do anything different to have a left pocket and a right pocket or do they work out the same? Sorry if I seem to be asking the obvious, but I am very new to sewing and everything seems difficult and scary to me!
I’m having trouble understanding a few of the steps with the pockets. Do they go inside or outside of the pants? I find it a little unclear because it doesn’t explain where the small triangular bit of fabric at the pocket’s opening should go during the assembly, because it seems to disappear then return. Could I get some help? Thanks!
Hi Lexi, the pockets go inside, I definitely need to make a video for this tutorial.
Kids today call culottes “skorts” and think I am very old fashioned when I say culottes.
Hi Anne Marie. A Skort consists of a short skirt that is sewn onto a pair of shorts hence its name. Both Culottes and Palazzo pants have flared legs and depending on how much flare is introduced may look similar to a full skirt when worn.
Hi am philomena, please is there a video for this tutorial and if yes how can one download it.
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Hello Mayra,
I’m French and we call it “jupe-culotte”. I remember my mumm wearing such a culotte when I was a child!
I like it a lot, but cannot find the link to download the pattern, it seems it doen’t work when I click on the link.
Could you please resend it to me in reply?
Thank you in advance,
Laetilet
HI Laetitia, thank you for your message. I have tested the link and it is working. Do try again. I am fabric hunting and unable to access my data base at the moment.
Hi, my waist measures 28″ and hips 39″ would a size 6 work for me, please? Thank you
Measure your belly button, the culottes are supposed to be close to your body but not tight or they will not fall gracefully. aI would go for Size 8, then take in the waist if you have to.
Hi everyone. I remember my mom sewing up pants like this. I love them. Can you explain how pattern sizing works? My hips at the widest part are 39/40. 40 is relaxed. My waist is 35 an inch above my belly button. The hip sizes in the third column are huge. What size would I be? Thanks.
HI Giuliana, what you call “Huge” is the ease of the garment. With your measurements I would choose size 12, and if it is too loose on the waist you can always take in before you add the waist band. Please use a 2 way stretch knit only.
[…] Culotte (bis Größe 52) von So Sew Easy […]
Would these work in a shorter length as swim shorts?? This is the only pattern I’ve found that even comes close to fitting the bill!
Yes they can work if they are rather short. Let me know how they turn out. Cheers!
Hello, I have downloaded and printed the pattern and am trying to determine which size to make. This is probably sound like a stupid question but how do the finished garment measurements relate to my own measurements since this is a knit ? If my hips are 40″ for example, which size should I use ?
Hello Anne, I would go with size 10 for a snug closer fit or 12 for a loser one. Include your waist measurement to decide.
Kind Regards,
Mayra
Mayra, thanks for the pattern, it will be ideal for my trip to Israel next week!
One question, how wide should the waistband be? I could not find the dimension anywhere. Would 5″ be about right? Also, are the culottes worn at the waist or lower? I’m sorry to be so pesty, unfortunately I am very anxious to get these done well, quickly.
Thanks so much for your help, and for designing such wonderful wearable clothes!
Hi Ann, I would recommend a 1.5″ waistband plus seam allowance, this culottes are designed to cover the bellybutton, with the waistband they should fall one inch over the bellybutton. But of course this depends on the shape of your hips. The best approach will be to make the culottes and fit them before cutting the waistband. Have fun in Israel, one of the destinations on my bucket list. There is a great deal of amazing designers there. I would Love to see a picture of you wearing the culottes on a famous site. Please do share!
Thanks Mayra! I just finished basting the seams and tried them on. I was concerned the size 14 would be too small, since the finished measurement should be 37″ and my hips are 37″. Well, I need to take them in about 1/4″ at each side seam, and they look great!
Thanks again, and I will try to get a picture of myself wearing them to post.
Sounds Great Ann, really looking forward!
Thank you for this pattern. Made a pair in a ‘stylish’ print and wore them a lot this summer…very comfortable! Now I’m going to find some nice autumn fabric as they’d be great with long socks for hiking in the fall 🙂
You are welcome Jazmin, I agree with you they are very comfortable.
please forgive if this is a stupid question, but i don’t see how these pants stay on – there doesn’t seem to be a zipper, button, elastic or drawstring at the waist. can you please clarify this for me?
This pattern is for knits only, so the fabric is stretchable, and the pants are supposed to be use closed to the body.
Hi, I love your pattern and would like to make it, but I still can’t find the size table in it. can you please help me? thank you!
Hi Giulia, I loaded the finished garment in the tutorial, please have a look. Let me know how you go. Cheers! Mayra
hi, I love this pattern and I would really like to try it, but I still have trouble finding the size table ore the finished garnment measures (downloaded it a second time but still can’t find them). is it just me? can you help me? thanks a lot
Please do check the blog article, I have added the measurements are there.
I owned a pair of full length culottes in the 60s and I LOVED them. I’ve showcased your fab culottes today, Mayra.
Thanks Pam and kind regards.
Would a mid weight jersey in poly work? I am wanting to do a wide leg pant.
Yes it would very well Indeed!
I dont see the pockets pattern in the download. Am I missing something?
I see them, you have to trace them, to save ink and paper.
Hi there. I love this pattern but there are no finished measurements or size guide printed on the pattern as stated in the instructions above and so I’m not sure which size to make.
Hi Elaine, can you have a look at the pattern again, I reloaded it and the measurements are there as well as the pocket, so you can trace the pieces. Sorry for the inconvenience and hope you enjoy the culottes. They are really comfortable.
Love the pattern, would love to know where you got that particular fabric from?
Hi, I got it from a store called Spotlight, as far as I know they are only in Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and Singapore where I am. You can find it in the knit section. Hope you get it and can share your culottes with us. Cheers!
Perfect, I’m in Brisbane so I will go down and have a look. Thanks 🙂
I see there was an update to this pattern on the Craftsy website. Can you tell me what has changed so hopefully I don’t have to print all of it all over again.
Thank you.
kakingsbury at verizon dot net
Hi Kathleen, no need to print the pattern again. The size of the test square was a little off before the update. The pattern was correct, just the test square was showing as something like 2.2″. We have updated that.
Fantastic design. Reminiscent of the 50s with a modern twist and made from stretch! Perfect combination. Cannot wait to make these. Thankyou for the pattern.
Enjoy Pauline!
When I go to print, the 2 inch square is too big – anybody else have this problem? These are so cute!!
Hi Jan, you were correct. Thanks for highlighting to me. The test square was a tiny bit too big but the pattern itself was perfectly to scale. I have updated the square on the pattern but you don’t need to print again as the pattern itself is unchanged. Kind regards and thanks again.
this is lovely – so cool!….. thanks so much. I am wondering when you finish off the crotch seams that are left unsewn?
You made me smile, it is at the end of step 4 you do close the crotch, this technique makes it easier for you to fit the pants in case they are too wide.
🙂 ah! what a great idea. Thanks once again:)
I absolutely love this pattern, but the fabric I had in mind for it is not a knit :'( Any chance you’d release a woven version? Or maybe you know of a pattern already available that compares? In any case, thanks for another great tutorial! I’ll keep it for when the right knit fabric comes along 🙂
I do have a pair in mind, soon I will publish it.
If you are anxious to use the woven and like this pattern, the general advice for converting patterns from woven to knit and vice versa is that the pattern types vary by approximately one size. So, if you want to use this knit culottes pattern with your woven fabric, try going up one pattern size larger than you would normally use (i.e., if you normally use a size 12, choose the size 14 cutting lines instead). Then, make a trial muslin to test the fit before cutting into your fashion fabric. If the woven muslin seems to need more give to be comfortable, you can try cutting a second muslin on the bias grain to create more fluidity and give, if you know how to do this. Making the muslins will let you determine if you like the pattern and how it fits when made in the woven fabric.
Hi Linda, thanks for this contribution and kind regards.
I used to love wearing culottes!! This pattern looks really nice in the fabric you used. Thanks for sharing the pattern!
Do you have a PDF instruction file for the culottes pattern?
Hi Kathy, we’ll post these on Craftsy in the next week or so. We’re usually a week behind with the full PDFs. There’s just so much to do to publish a tutorial and that just takes a little longer. Please check back in a few days.
Merci pour le patron de ce joli modele que je viens de telecharger. Grace a vous je decouvre la couture et je suis heureuse de voir tout ce que vous faites. Je vous remercie de tout coeur. Vraiment BRAVO pour votre site que j’aime beaucoup. Mireille
Merci Mireille, pour nous il est un honneur de vous avoir ici!
I love this pattern…thank you…but I would almost kill for the pattern for the turquoise dress…or at least the top…do you have it?
Do you mean the ones in the old drawings from the 50’s? I don’t, but it really only takes me a couple of hours to make a pattern is the tutorials and photos where my time goes. I am happy to make something up if you are more specific. Let me know Carol.
Hello
Wonderful , thanks.
You are right about the story of “culotte” in french. But it was a loooong time ago , right now this word in used only for underwear for woman (panties, knickers)
Have a nice day and thanks again for the pattern
Yes Marie thank you, this is true, and hope that everybody reads your comment.
Culottes look ver comfy. I am going to try them. I am also going to pin this tutorial. Thank you sew much Maya.
Val.
They are! I really hope you make them and show me, you can load your project on our store on Craftsy. Thank you for your time!
FAB-U-LOUS!! I was looking for a culotte pattern online last night and … BAM!!… here you are with this today. To say I am thrilled is an understatement. 🙂 Thank you so very much. Pinned and bookmarked so I can print and make later. :))
Enjoy Cristina, your happiness is mine!