Midi Skirt – Fitting And Use Of Other Fabrics: Part Two

This is the second part of the denim midi skirt pattern. I shared the first part with you last weekend, you can grab the pattern here if you haven't yet.

Denim Midi Skirt Pattern – A Skirt For Mid-Seasons: Part 1

Many of you have expressed the intention of making the midi skirt in a fabric different than stretchable denim.  This is possible, however, there are a few things I would like to say about using a different fabric than the one I have suggested.

Commercially printed patterns have specific fabric suggestions so that the customer can get the intended result.  Often when you change the fabric, there are a few unintended problems that come up, as the pattern was not tested with every potential fabric in mind.  This doesn't mean you shouldn't experiment, (it actually can be very useful for your skills) but you have to keep in mind that the pattern was not made for different fabric, and there is the potential for many complications.  For this skirt, pay special attention to the slit in the drawing below as this is an area that could be affected.

The Midi Skirt

Plaid fabrics…  When I refer to plaid I am talking about the print not the type of fabric.  When using plaid you need to take into consideration the grain line and the direction of the print.  The only piece cut on the grain line on the drawing below is the left side of the split (the smaller piece).  If you want to match the rest of the skirt to the left side of the split you will need to cut the rest of the skirt on a bias. Therefore you will need at least a 1/2″ extra for every 1 yard more than the required amount of fabric.

On the drawing below all the pieces are cut on the grain line and matching the lines except of course for the left side of the split.

I have used stretched denim and have suggested the use of medium weight twill with 5 to 10% stretch.  I recommend this because of the type of waistband we are using.  It is wide and ideal for those with a bump around the belly button and love handles.

What Other Fabrics can be Used if you do not Want a Denim Midi Skirt?

Medium weight Twill with 5% stretch

Corduroy medium weight 

Corduroy is part of the nap fabric group, I have already talked to you lightly about nap fabrics in this tutorial. Have a read so you understand how to work with this type of fabrics.

Canvas medium weight

Any other medium weight fabric that catches your eye or is already in our stash.

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Continued from Part 1

Step Five: How to fit your midi skirt

Sew the left side of the front of the skirt to the rest of the fabric.

Sew the front and back together.  It is now time to fit your skirt to your body.

I am going to trust that you have made a muslin.  Try the skirt pinning the left side on the front skirt then try it out.

Fitting Your Midi Skirt

The first thing you need to remember when choosing a pattern is that it is easier to grade up than down.  Pick a size close to your hips, because of the slit.

Waist too large but fits well at the hips

There are two possible ways to approach this fitting problem. The lazy way and the more professional way.

The lazy and for those that did not make a muslin; pin the excess of the fabric spacing it evenly.  Transfer this marking to the pattern. The proper way would be to eliminate the excess on the pattern in equal parts on the sides.

Waist too tight but hips fit well

This is the typical problem for women who are apple shaped or have a small difference between the hips and waist.  This is easy to adjust. Use the space of the seam allowance and the darts on the back to give yourself wearing ease.  You can eliminate the darts completely.

Raising or lowering the slit 

As it is the slit will let about 2″ above your knee to show if this is too much for you.  Slide the left side front piece to the right making sure the side seam and the bottom line never changes.

Trace the new pattern piece.

Do the exact opposite if you want to show more leg.

Need the skirt a bit longer.  For the ladies that are 5'8″ or more.  Many of you who read this blog are indeed very tall and your requirements are the complete opposite of mine, (I am  5'1″ or 155cm).

I have touched on the subject before in another sew along tutorial for the Easy Pleated Skirt.  Please have a look at the tutorial for more detailed instructions.

Altering the Easy Pleated Skirt pattern. How to increase or decrease the waistline: Part 4

Sew the front and back together, use the serger to clean the seam allowance.

Using the pattern mark the placement of the pocket.  This is a patch pocket.  Sew the pocket on the side.

Attach the patch pocket using the following tutorial.

Unlined patch pocket tutorial – how to make the perfect pocket

I forgot to mark the amount you need to fold the pocket, I am adding this to the drawing below.

This is the end of Part 2.  Join me in the next article when we will be finishing this skirt.

Until next time, keep your scissors sharp and happy sewing!