Overblouse Top Pattern – Keeping Cool While Covering Up

This is the overblouse top pattern that I promised in last week's project; the spaghetti strap top. This overblouse can give your look an extra flare or give you a little warmth for an unexpected evening chill

This overblouse top pattern makes a blouse that can be used open or closed.

It is loose fitting so you can move around to help up stay cool.

Long sleeves or three-quarter sleeves so you can cover more of your arm, and with a simple pattern transformation, the length can be adjusted.

Materials

• 1.5 to 2 yards of 54″ wide choice of soft linen, soft cotton, or any loose weave natural fiber fabric
• thread to match
• bias tape enough around the neck
• 3/8″ elastic enough for the sleeves
• fusible interfacing enough for the facing
• five snaps fasteners or buttons (optional)

Tools

• sewing machine (optional)
• snap fastener machine if using snaps
• buttonhole foot if using buttons

Fabric Recommendations from Fabric.com

Sewing Level: Beginner

Although this is an easy project, basic knowledge of sewing is needed. Please review the following material prior to starting the project.

• Five mistakes to avoid when cutting fabric
• Guide to snap fasteners
• How to make button holes
• How to make bias tape

How To Print And Download The Overblouse Top Pattern

Please use Adobe Reader, print in Landscape Mode and do not scale.

Pattern Download

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Pattern Layout

Sizes

Size	Bust	Waist	Hips
S	36-38	25-27	37-39
M	38-40	27-29	39-41
L	40-42	29-31	41-43
XL	42-44	31-33	43-45
2XL	44-46	33-36	45-47

Sewing Instructions

There is NO seam allowance in the pattern, I suggest using a 5/8″ because you will need to add elastic to the sleeves and you will be able to sew this project by hand.

Step One: Sewing The Dart

I have a perfect tutorial on how to sew a dart, please take the time to read it so you end up with a perfect dart. This step is important because if there is a bubble at the end of the dart your overblouse top will end up looking cheap.

Please read the instructions in the post below to achieve professional results.

How to Sew Darts – How to Sew A Skirt Series

Cut a strip of fusible interfacing along the front, this will allow you to be able to make the button holes or snaps.

The length is according to the size you are working on, and the width for all sizes is 2 1/4″ as marked in your pattern.

Step Two: Sewing The Sleeves

This type of sleeve is known as a raglan sleeve, it is a very easy sleeve to sew once you have identified the front and back. There are two ways to sew this type of sleeves, the following is the mass production technique, it will provide you very reliable results.

The following instructions are not my favourite but it is the fastest, and other more complicated techniques make little difference in this type of project.

Print side together pin the front of the sleeve to the front of the overblouse top.

Sew and serge the seam allowance reducing it to half.

Pin the back of the sleeve to the back of the top. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Serge the seam allowance of the front and back of the overblouse before sewing the sides.

Sew the sides after you have serge the edges.

Iron the seam allowance open to reduce bulk.

In a future tutorial I will show you how to add a side seam pocket on a finished garment. It would make a good addition to this project, but I don't want to make it more complicated than necessary.

If you tried on the top now you will find that the sleeves do not fall over the shoulders well. To remedy that, we will gather the top of the sleeves. The following are the amounts to gather according to sizes:

Size S and M gather to 3.5″

Size L, XL gather to 4″

Size 2XL gather to 4.5″

I am working on a M Size top so I will gather the top of the sleeve until I have 4″ in length.

Step Three: Sewing The Neck

Mark the seam allowance around the neckline using an erasable pen or a tailor's chalk.

Place the first fold of the bias tape on top of the mark leaving a small amount at the beginning and at the end, pin the bias tape all around the neckline.

Sew the seam allowance on the first fold where the mark you made before is underneath.

Trim the seam allowance, to the same length of the bias tape.

Fold and pin the bias tape over the seam allowance.

Sew very close to the edge.

Step Four: Sewing The Hem And Adding The Elastic

Cut a piece of elastic that can go comfortably around the forearm.

Working on the wrong side of the top. Insert the sleeve in the elastic band.

Fold the hem of the sleeve 1/2″.

Slide the elastic to the edge of the hem.

Fold the hem over the elastic and pin.

Insert the sleeve in the arm of your sewing machine.

Needle down pull the elastic and sew.

Serge the hem from one end to the next. Fold the hem 1/2″.

Fold back the facing and sew.

Step Five: Finishing The Facing

Trim the bias tape. Fold the facing at the neckline and sew along the front.

Other Looks For This Overtop Blouse Pattern

I chose to use muslin for my project. This is a perfect fabric for testing the fit of this overblouse top pattern, but it does not make for the best pictures in my opinion. Take this example as a canvas for your own designs.

For another run, I am planning to use cotton batiste or loose weave linen. However, my favorite fabric for this overblouse top pattern would have to be any cotton from Liberty of London.

Let me know how you go in the comments below. Make sure to share your pictures on Facebook or Instagram, and Until Next Time, Happy Sewing!

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