This Valentine's Day, we have something special for you –something sweet or something racy– with a free sexy dress pattern and tutorial. This dress comes with a warning! Be careful. You may struggle to keep your lover's hands off you when wearing this..
This is an intermediate-level project. It will take some time to make, but once it's done, you'll be happy to spend time in it! It is comfortable, but sexy and is a very flattering design. I have designed it on a bias and simplified the construction as much as possible. I have made it especially for the curvy girl in mind. The smallest size will accommodate a bust and hips between 43″ and 45″. I have not used fusible interfacing because I did not want any more support, and my fabric did not need it. You are welcome to use fusible interfacing if your fabric allows it.
If you have something sweet in mind, I recommend the use of a very soft cotton voile or silk chiffon. If racy is what you want, then try to find the same fabric I am using. It is a satin/silk back crepe or lace. Other fabrics you can use are Charmeuse satin or silk damask. I'll give you a few good suggestions from Fabric.com below.
This pattern and tutorial are completely free to you. The design and pattern are entirely original and, as you can imagine, has taken some time to put together. I really hope that you enjoy it and that it adds some spice to your Valentine's Day!
Here are the materials we will be using:
3 yards of fabric, more if you are matching the print
This pattern is designed with the curvy girls in mind.
Small
Medium
Large
Bust
42″
44″
46″
Waist
38″
40″
42″
Hips
44″
46″
48″
Suggestions from Amazon.com
Pattern Download
Print the pattern using Adobe Reader in Landscape mode, and actual size.
Download the Free Sexy Dress Pattern
You can download the pattern pieces and instructions for the Free Sexy Dress Pattern from Payhip. Â Save to your computer or pattern library and sew at your leisure.
For help downloading and printing PDF patterns, please CLICK HERE.
Step One: Download, print and assemble your sexy dress pattern
Print the pattern and tape it following the numbers. You will have 23 pages to print in total. Please match the black circles. There are small numbers on each side of the circle to guide you. If you need further guidance on how to do these, please read our post on: How to download and print PDF sewing patterns
Take the front pattern and retrace it to make one big pattern piece. The front will be cut from the fabric as a single whole piece. There are two pieces to the bottom back of the dress that are stitched together in a later step.
Step Two: True the fabric
Iron the fabric, true it and find the grain of your fabric. We won't go into this much right now since we did a recent post on how to do this. If you don't recall how, please read review our post on: Top 5 Mistakes to Avoid When Cutting Fabric
For the top, you will need to cut two sets of each cup piece because we are self-lining. By this, we mean that one set will be the outside and one set the inside of the garment. This will add support without making it stiff. If you are using fusible interfacing this is the time to cut it and iron it into the fabric.
Sew the four pieces together and press the seams open to create one half of the top. Sew another set of four pieces to create the other half. Later these will be joined together with the seams all facing inside to create a soft yet supportive top.
Notice there is no interfacing in my garment. This is because I wanted to keep the softness in the fabric. Since I have self-lined the top, interfacing will not be required to have any more bulk. If you are planning to wear this garment as a cocktail dress then perhaps you want to use a very delicate fusible interfacing.
Step four: Topstitch
Topstitch the cups 1/8″ on either side of the center seam, this will help the seams lay flat once when the garment is completed and will add a decorative stitch if you are using a solid color.
Step Five: Attach cups to bodice
Attach one set of the cups to the bodice and trim the seam allowance by half, iron the seam upwards.
Step Six: Make the straps
Cut a strip of fabric 1.5″ by 25″ to 27″ long depending on the size you are working on. Fold the strips in half and stitch them right in the middle. If you want more support, you can make the straps wider and add fusible interfacing to make them stiffer. I have chosen not to use fusible interfacing because I want to preserve the overall soft feeling of the garment. You can use interfacing if you prefer but you need to trim the seam allowance because it will become difficult to turn.
Turn the straps inside out using a loop turner and set aside.
Step Seven: Attach straps and assemble the cups
Please follow these steps carefully. It will save you time with the seam ripper.
Take the front of your garment and place it on the table right side up (print on top and towards you). Pin your straps at the tip of the cups so they essentially hang down the front. See picture above. This might seem to be counter-intuitive but you'll see how this all comes together later.
Take the lining set of cups and front set with the skirt attached line them up with the straps in the middle like a sandwich.
Step Eight: Sew together the front, lining, and straps
Sew only the top along the top edge of the garment where the straps are located. Please take particular care in the two places where the straps are attached and the middle of the chest where the center seam is located. At these three points you most pivot the corners taking care to always respect the seam allowance.
Trim half of the seam allowance along the inside of the top edge. Turn and iron the top.
Step Nine: Sew together two back pieces
Sew the back pieces using a french seam. If you need additional guidance with this, please see our tutorial: How to sew a French Seam
Here is how to do it: Place the wrong sides (non-print side) together and then sew on the right side (print side) of your garment a 1/4″ seam allowance. I am using white thread on a sample so you can see the stitching clearly.
Cut less than half off the seam allowance and iron to the side.
Fold the fabric on the seam and iron flat.
Sew another 3/8″ seam once again. The raw edge will completely be covered. This will be the inside of your garment and outside will be smooth and neat.
Step Ten: Finish the skirt lining
Attach the top and the skirt, right sides together. Seam allowance will be on the wrong side of the fabric. Iron the seam upwards. You can either use pins as in the photo or hand basting.
Fold the raw edge of the lining 5/8″ inward and sew either by hand or by machine being guided by the gap between the top and skirt. This seam will hardly be noticed.
Step Eleven: Finish the back
Zigzag the top of the skirt and fold it 1/2″.
Baste the seam and set aside.
Step Twelve: Sew the straps to the back and join everything together
Very simply join the front and the back at the sides, the wrong side together.
Baste the garment on the sides, this step might look unnecessary, but when working with delicate fabric pinning is not always ideal because the pins fall down. Silk is a slippery fabric and when cut on a bias has the tendency to lose the shape, that is why it is better to baste the garment all along the sides.
I have used the French seam again which is my preferred seam when working with silk because it protects the fabric from unraveling and prolongs the life of your garment. This is the time to try the dress on and find the place where you want to sew the straps. I have sewn them 5″ from the center back line, however, this is entirely up to you. Twist the straps as if you were going to tie your shoes and attach the straps to the back, 5″ from the center seam. This measurement depends on your taste and of course your measurements. You will have to make the fitting according to your body measurements. Check your back, is it too wide for you? By how much? On the small size, the back measures 23 inches, if the back is 2″ too wide for you, cut your stretch lace 22″.
As an option for the more advanced sewists, you can add lingerie adjuster sliders and rings to allow for more adjustment options but I won't be covering this in the tutorial.
At this point, you are almost finished. Make sure both sides seam allowances are facing to the front. Press them with the steam iron and pin them. Take your lace and
Match the middle of your elastic to the middle of the back.
Pin the elastic on either side. The elastic should be 2 ” smaller than the measurement of the top of the skirt. Attach the elastic to the top of the skirt on the wrong side of the skirt allowing the top of the elastic to show as a decorative motif.
Tuck the ends of the elastic under the french seam.
Sew the elastic, at this point you could use a twin needle or just make to rows of stitches.
Iron the dress and press all seams flat. Make sure all the seams face the same way from the join of the top and the skirt to the hem.
Step Thirteen: Hem the dress
The best way to make the hem in a delicate fabric such as silk or satin is to stitch all around the hem at 1/4″. Fold and iron using this stitch line as a guide.
Fold one more time and sew very close to the edge. Your hem will have a very professional and delicate look. Iron the hem and voila!!!!
Step Fourteen: Try it out with your lover;)
You are done! Because I have used silk in a very bold color, I can't really decide if the end result is something sweet something racy. What do you think? Why don't you try and share with me your take on this pattern? It would be great to hear how you go with this project. Please post your comments, questions, and pics (not too racy pls..) below.
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You can find it after the fabric suggestions it is an orange button inside a pick rectangle.
Yvette
Lovely!! Thank you so much for sharing. I think pairing this with the Easy Long Cardigan pattern (for some of us more mature ladies who are just a bit more modest) made in coordinating tulle would make a very nice negligee. What do you think? Again I thank you for another beautiful pattern. I think I own them all?
I’m sorry for not getting back and not being clear . I was actually meaning your material. So let me try my question again. 🙂 Would the material that you are using be considered a jaquared satin? I’ve looked on several fabric sites and it seems as though the only satin with a subtle pattern is the jaquared. I’m a not an expert at sewing but I try and I’m learning new things every time I sew, like that there are different types of satin. lol Thank you so much for your help.
Yes, this is a damask jacquard design, very hard to get online, since can it be easily mistaken with the soft furnishing type. If you do find it make sure it is silk, if not it will not drape nicely or will be extremely warm in summer.
I triple checked for the links and I can not seem to find any links. I see the words Fabric Suggestions but there is nothing under that. Thanks again for an amazing pattern and tutorial . I’m hoping to get this figured out and done for an April trip.
Hi Donella, under the heading pattern Download there is a rather large pink rectangle, inside the rectangle, there is an orange button, press that and it will take you to the pattern. Please use Adobe Reader to download.
My Golden Thimble
Wonderful and sexy indeed!
Great sewing tutorial and pattern.
What a beautiful dress and design Mayra! Size small would fit me with some adjustments but my 36DDDDs would have zero support. Would love something with this general shaping but with the ability to wear a supportive bra. Higher back and wider straps. Looks fantastic though and I’m so pleased you have designed this for the curvier gal! I’m sure there will be some very happy seamstresses with this pattern. Bravo!
Precioso vestido!!! E increÃblemente, ajustado a mi talla (pecho 104, cadera 114). Pero tengo una duda: serÃa muy complicado ajustarlo para poder usar sujetador debajo?
hola, una consulta. conviene que tome la medida de busto o mas cercana a mi talle 90 cm de busto, y luego ensanche la falda para cubrir mi cadera que es como 2 tallas más que la de busto?…imagino que sÃ….desde ya gracias.
Hola Nelly, el mas chico te va a quedar grande, te va ir bien en las caderas pero en el busto le tendars que tomar a los lados. Te sugiero que hagas el vestido con una tela que no cueste mucho antes y le hagas los cambios necesarios y luego uses la tela mas cara. Un saludo afectuoso 🙂
Ivlia Blackburn
Would like to make this for my daughter but as a 54″ bust I am not sure that there would be enough support (I can adjust the top to fit). I have a lovely cotton lace fabric I can use but I wonder if it would ruin the dress if I had to adjust it to enable her to wear a bra underneath (without it showing).
HI Ivli, if you know how to grade a pattern anything is possible. There are bras that cross over and are very low in the back. You can always raise the back and make the straps wider. In fact, your comment has made me think you a new design to accommodate a bra.
Candice
Love the look and drape! My first thought when I saw it: I have lingerie that looks like this! And I have all kinds of fabric, so thinking of different ideas. Someone mentioned sundress, so may end up doing that and changing the straps to either ones that tie at the shoulder, or wider, with a ribbon on the wrong side to secure the bra strap. Or even use a snap set-up at the back. I may “cheat” and use a serger for the main seams, just for quickness when making a quick sundress. Thanks for this – I’m excited to sew up a couple!
You will need a smaller size. What is your cup size?
Anne Dirks
Please a size or two smaller as options would be really nice. I have two 30 year olds that could wear this (I’m too old for this bare.) but think 34A 27 37 and 36B 28 37. Thank you so much!
Thank you, Ann, The measurements really help! appreciated it!
Peggy
I think this looks awesome ladies. Thank you for so generously sharing your talents and fashion sense.
Being a curvy and mature woman, I might have to make two.
1. Drinks and chocolate fondue for two.
2. Summer afternoons with some lace inserted so I can wear a bra.
I will need a bit more info, a cup size or a measurement will help. Thank you, Maggie. You can send me an email if you do not feel like writing it down here mayra@ so-sew-easy.com
Michelle
I LOVE IT!!!! Definitely LRD (Little Red Dress
Kimber Crow
Thanks so much for this great dr as and tutorial. What cup size is this drafted for? I fit the small size, but need to take cup size into consideration.
If you have another similar dress pattern (or can get one in your size) you may be able to use those measurements. I have had to do the same thing to make adjustments.
Its beautiful, I would make one!! But I wouldn’t have anywhere to wear it!! But I can dream! Lol
Shirley S.
How about Red Wine and Black Lace, or Strawberries at Midnight?
Anita Pellerin
Name this dress. I Can’t decide between the ‘Curvy Red Dress’ or the ‘Sweet N Sexy Red Dress’! It’s a beautiful dress Mayra! One I’d be very proud to wear! TFS!
Jamie
This sexy dress name is lady in Red evening dress.
Heather Kistler
This is a simple, but lovely dress for something special. I would call it “Dress in Red-hot Rapture “.
Heather K.
Love the pattern. I think an appropriate name for the dress should be the “LRD” (Little Red Dress). Every lady should have one in their wardrobe.
Melissa
Wow, I love this sexy dress. I could do that little bit of embroidery for a lot less.
Samone
Thank you so much for having a pattern for someone who is curvy. Traditional patterns at the store don’t accommodate those with curves. It is a pain to change the bust/hip measurements. Thank you for already having all of this done in a pattern!!!
This is a beautiful dress! I am looking forward to make it! Thank you again for inspiring others to get out there and to try sewing without having to spend a fortune on patterns. Wish you ladies the best!
WOW! Pretty sure I can make this, although not in time for the 14th. No matter, he will be properly appreciative whenever I wear it. I might have to make adjustments so that it is easier to remove, though 😉
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Beautiful Dress. What about raising the back to cover a bra?
You would need a zipper on the side or back to be able to get into your dress.
I cannot seem tofind the patternfor download.
You can find it after the fabric suggestions it is an orange button inside a pick rectangle.
Lovely!! Thank you so much for sharing. I think pairing this with the Easy Long Cardigan pattern (for some of us more mature ladies who are just a bit more modest) made in coordinating tulle would make a very nice negligee. What do you think? Again I thank you for another beautiful pattern. I think I own them all?
Well Ivette seems that you got the designer mojo, I can totally see it, lovely outfit indeed. Go for it, let me know how it turn out.
Great looking dress and wonderful, simple to follow tutorial!
Beautiful!
Could you draft this in larger sizes for a nightgown please?
Just Increase the length it will work really well on silk or satin back crepe.
great pattern ,but should have read the curvy bit and the pattern size as I just assumed 10 12 14,
so after a lot of trimming made it
thanks
Yes, I can imagine you had to do a lot of trimming but kudos you manage to make the side meet!
So I have searched and searched for fabric similar to what you used here. Could you tell me if this would be considered a jacquared satin?
Hi Donella, you forgot to load the picture. I have added some links to fabric swatches, did you try those?
I’m sorry for not getting back and not being clear . I was actually meaning your material. So let me try my question again. 🙂 Would the material that you are using be considered a jaquared satin? I’ve looked on several fabric sites and it seems as though the only satin with a subtle pattern is the jaquared. I’m a not an expert at sewing but I try and I’m learning new things every time I sew, like that there are different types of satin. lol Thank you so much for your help.
Yes, this is a damask jacquard design, very hard to get online, since can it be easily mistaken with the soft furnishing type. If you do find it make sure it is silk, if not it will not drape nicely or will be extremely warm in summer.
I triple checked for the links and I can not seem to find any links. I see the words Fabric Suggestions but there is nothing under that. Thanks again for an amazing pattern and tutorial . I’m hoping to get this figured out and done for an April trip.
Hi Donella, under the heading pattern Download there is a rather large pink rectangle, inside the rectangle, there is an orange button, press that and it will take you to the pattern. Please use Adobe Reader to download.
Wonderful and sexy indeed!
Great sewing tutorial and pattern.
Thank you Dafhtne!
What a beautiful dress and design Mayra! Size small would fit me with some adjustments but my 36DDDDs would have zero support. Would love something with this general shaping but with the ability to wear a supportive bra. Higher back and wider straps. Looks fantastic though and I’m so pleased you have designed this for the curvier gal! I’m sure there will be some very happy seamstresses with this pattern. Bravo!
Noted Sherry, I will work on a sexy dress for the spring, stay tuned. Cheers!
Precioso vestido!!! E increÃblemente, ajustado a mi talla (pecho 104, cadera 114). Pero tengo una duda: serÃa muy complicado ajustarlo para poder usar sujetador debajo?
Gracias por compartir tu trabajo
Hola Belén, el vestido realmente es para usarlo sin sujetador, si seria un poco complicado cambiarlo pero no imposible. Hay sujetadores cruzados a tras que se pueden usar con este tipo de vestido. En la primavera voy a compartir con vosotros otro vestido con la option de usar un sujetador sin que se vea. Te dejo saver. Un saludo afecturoso!
hola, una consulta. conviene que tome la medida de busto o mas cercana a mi talle 90 cm de busto, y luego ensanche la falda para cubrir mi cadera que es como 2 tallas más que la de busto?…imagino que sÃ….desde ya gracias.
Hola Nelly, el mas chico te va a quedar grande, te va ir bien en las caderas pero en el busto le tendars que tomar a los lados. Te sugiero que hagas el vestido con una tela que no cueste mucho antes y le hagas los cambios necesarios y luego uses la tela mas cara. Un saludo afectuoso 🙂
Would like to make this for my daughter but as a 54″ bust I am not sure that there would be enough support (I can adjust the top to fit). I have a lovely cotton lace fabric I can use but I wonder if it would ruin the dress if I had to adjust it to enable her to wear a bra underneath (without it showing).
HI Ivli, if you know how to grade a pattern anything is possible. There are bras that cross over and are very low in the back. You can always raise the back and make the straps wider. In fact, your comment has made me think you a new design to accommodate a bra.
Love the look and drape! My first thought when I saw it: I have lingerie that looks like this! And I have all kinds of fabric, so thinking of different ideas. Someone mentioned sundress, so may end up doing that and changing the straps to either ones that tie at the shoulder, or wider, with a ribbon on the wrong side to secure the bra strap. Or even use a snap set-up at the back. I may “cheat” and use a serger for the main seams, just for quickness when making a quick sundress. Thanks for this – I’m excited to sew up a couple!
Love your enthusiasm Candice, looking forward to your take on this.
This would fit my hips fine, but since my bust is on the smaller side, I will drown in it. How can that be accommodated for?
You will need a smaller size. What is your cup size?
Please a size or two smaller as options would be really nice. I have two 30 year olds that could wear this (I’m too old for this bare.) but think 34A 27 37 and 36B 28 37. Thank you so much!
Thank you, Ann, The measurements really help! appreciated it!
I think this looks awesome ladies. Thank you for so generously sharing your talents and fashion sense.
Being a curvy and mature woman, I might have to make two.
1. Drinks and chocolate fondue for two.
2. Summer afternoons with some lace inserted so I can wear a bra.
Now we are talking Peggy! Mature and curvy yes, but never boring! the perfect party for two, congratulations!
Could this be modified to accommodate a larger bust? When a bra is a must… (and not a pretty bra).
I will need a bit more info, a cup size or a measurement will help. Thank you, Maggie. You can send me an email if you do not feel like writing it down here mayra@ so-sew-easy.com
I LOVE IT!!!! Definitely LRD (Little Red Dress
Thanks so much for this great dr as and tutorial. What cup size is this drafted for? I fit the small size, but need to take cup size into consideration.
Cheers.
Hi, Kimber, I suggest you make a Muslin. Use the bust measurements to pick your size.
What do you think about crepe backed satin for this dress? Maybe too heavy?
No, it will be perfect. It will drape elegantly 🙂
Would love to make it but it would be way too big. How do you decrease a bust pattern?
Hi Teresa, I will release a smaller version for late spring.
If you have another similar dress pattern (or can get one in your size) you may be able to use those measurements. I have had to do the same thing to make adjustments.
Teresa, this link is to a free video on National Sewing Circle about how to grade a pattern. It may help as We’ll.
https://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/video/pattern-grading-015114/
Beautiful, but I’d have to wear it at a warmer time of the year. I live in MN and would freeze to death in February.
I would definitely make this as a sundress, such a cute pattern.
It would look fantastic as a dun dress.
Its beautiful, I would make one!! But I wouldn’t have anywhere to wear it!! But I can dream! Lol
How about Red Wine and Black Lace, or Strawberries at Midnight?
Name this dress. I Can’t decide between the ‘Curvy Red Dress’ or the ‘Sweet N Sexy Red Dress’! It’s a beautiful dress Mayra! One I’d be very proud to wear! TFS!
This sexy dress name is lady in Red evening dress.
This is a simple, but lovely dress for something special. I would call it “Dress in Red-hot Rapture “.
Heather K.
The sweetheart Dress
Is a nice name?
Love the pattern. I think an appropriate name for the dress should be the “LRD” (Little Red Dress). Every lady should have one in their wardrobe.
Wow, I love this sexy dress. I could do that little bit of embroidery for a lot less.
Thank you so much for having a pattern for someone who is curvy. Traditional patterns at the store don’t accommodate those with curves. It is a pain to change the bust/hip measurements. Thank you for already having all of this done in a pattern!!!
This is a beautiful dress! I am looking forward to make it! Thank you again for inspiring others to get out there and to try sewing without having to spend a fortune on patterns. Wish you ladies the best!
Definitely racy with that gorgeous red fabric, Mayra. Beautiful.
Featured today, Mayra…
Thank you Pam!
Deby! I LOVE THIS! now to find the right fabric… ive been checking out the strechy cosplay stuff at joann’s… THANK YOU!!
I like the finished measurements, made for slightly fluffy women, like me.
Wow ,nice dress. W.ill try and make it
That great! Please let us know how you go.
WOW! Pretty sure I can make this, although not in time for the 14th. No matter, he will be properly appreciative whenever I wear it. I might have to make adjustments so that it is easier to remove, though 😉
Indeed, indeed… please enjoy.
I love it. Will be trying this out for a summer nite.
Beautiful idea! However seeing the dress on a dress form is very different than on a real person. Just a suggestion.
Hi Carmen, great idea. We’ll look forward to sharing some real life photos from some of the contributors as their projects come together.