So what is shirring anyway?
In preparation for a new project this week, I want to introduce you to a technique called shirring (which is sometimes known as smocking) with a simple practice tutorial. According to Wikipedia, “shirring is two or more rows of gathers that are used to decorate parts of garments, usually sleeves, bodice or yoke.” With shirring, the gathers can be both decorative as well as functional since elastic can be used to draw in the gathers giving the garment more give to accommodate different sizes.
Most techniques you'll see around will show you how to do shirring with elastic thread. Personally, I think that technique has some significant limitations, so I'm going to show you how you can do shirring without elastic thread and using normal elastic. When you use elastic thread, this thread can irritate wearers with sensitive skin. Also, to use elastic thread you need to wind the thread onto the bobbin of your sewing machine and and it can sometimes cause problems with the machine because the thread stretches and finding correct thread tension can be a challenge.
Lighter fabrics work best for shirring. You'll need to use really strong elastic if you're planning to try to gather thick and heavy fabric like denim. For more Tips for Sewing Denim, please review this tutorial.
Shirring without elastic thread
Shirring without elastic thread is a technique that calls for a bit of patience, but the payoff is fantastic! This technique is best used on garments that will be close to the skin like pajama pants, children's clothing or corset-inspired tops where the person that wears the garment has sensitive skin and is bothered by elastic rubbing against the skin. Shirring without elastic thread allows for a bit of movement and room to breath, while also making the garment last much longer than when using elastic thread. For best results, it is better to use 1/4″ or 3/8″ elastic. You can use thinner, of course, but that will depend on your fabric and the design you have in mind.
Where to use shirring without elastic thread?
This type of shirring does not give you a lot of elasticity if you use a thick fabric like damask or brocade, but it will give you the support needed for evening gowns, crop tops and soft corset tops that do not require a lot of boning. With cotton lawn fabric and 1/4″ elastic, you can make a very soft and glorious pair of pants perfect for a Sunday morning. But I guess my favorite place to use this technique is on self-lined crop tops.
- quilting cotton, cotton pique, rayon, challis linen or silk dupioni. (You'll need a couple of rectangles of the same size for this practice. Roughly a square foot should be enough.)
- thread to match your fabric
- a loop turner or safety pins
Shirring without elastic thread tutorial
I am using a scrap of fabric with a dark thread so you can see the stitches better. To begin our shirring practice project, take the two pieces you will be working on right sides facing in, sew the top at 5/8″. Open the 2 pieces and iron the seams to one side. Top stitch on the seam allowance.Trim the seam allowance to half.Turn your work right-sides facing out and iron again. Pin the sides so that the fabric doesn't move and the edge becomes distorted. Start by making a row of stitches a little wider than the elastic you are using. I am using a 1/4″ elastic so my rows are 3/8″ wide starting from the edge. Sew the first row. Since half of my foot is 1/4″ wide I will be using my foot as a rough guide. If you are planning to make this row larger, I suggest you use a ruler to mark the rows otherwise is very hard to eyeball it and keep the rows straight and consistent.
Sew the entire piece, but stop when you have a bit more than 5/8″ at the bottom. This seam allowance is indispensable to finish the hem of the garment or the waistband if you are making pants or a skirt.
Finishing the shirring without elastic thread
Cut the elastic pieces to 1/2 to 3/4 of the length of your pattern and measurements requirements. For example, the piece without being stretched should match your body measurements. How many pieces of elastic will depend upon how many rows you have sewn.
Attach a safety pin at one end of the elastic. The safety pin will help the elastic stay outside of the fabric as you draw the elastic through the rows.
Use your loop turner to pull the elastic to the other side. If you do not have a loop turner simply attach another safety pin and thread the elastic through the rows.
Secure the elastics that have been drawn through the rows with safety pin or pins.
Leave the last row empty because this is what you are going to need to integrate the shirring into and finish the garment.
Sew along each edge of the piece where the pins are to permanently hold everything in place. And there you have it. You can use this piece as a beautiful and functional part of your new project.
In my case, I am making this crop top for a party dress. We'll share a tutorial for this fun project with you all shortly. You can see some of it below.
Hope you enjoyed this alternative, and I think better, way of shirring without using elastic thread. I know is not the easiest, but when it is applied to the right garment the effect is very elegant and comfortable to wear and will last a long, long time.