The Sweatpants That Are Not Just For Sweating

sweatpants pattern

These sweatpants are the second pattern on our Workout Wardrobe storyboard collection and they are not just for sweating as I will demonstrate in the months to come.

The fit of the pattern is not the trend of these days which is for thick leggings with pockets.  These sweatpants are more in the traditional (read practical) style and have more room around the legs without being floppy.  With pockets large enough for your phone, they are certainly not the tight leggings that many are sporting today.  But I think you'll find them very comfortable as well as presentable for that quick trip to the store, and not to mention the gym…

These sweatpants are to be worn one inch over your belly button which is the ideal place to avoid the dreaded muffin top look.  The making of this pair of sweatpants is very easy, so I will say that the project is suitable for the advanced beginner.  It is similar in construction to the pajama pants we did last year.  That tutorial has a video and this sew along has a step by step instructions on how to sew the slant pockets so you can follow the same instructions there about how to sew the pockets.

sweatpants pattern

You should know by now that we are pushing the use of an overlocker because it really speeds up the process and makes for a better finish.  If you use one, no one will be able to tell you to made this garment.  It will look just like the pros!  However, you definitely don't need one for this project.  It's just a good next step in your sewing journey if you're ready for it.

So let's start, and as always the best thing to do is to measure yourself and pay attention to the finished garments measurements below.  These measurements are a better indication than the size of how the sweatpants will fit on your body.

sweatpants pattern

Pattern Layout

sweatpants pattern

Finished Garment Measurements

 Size Waist (inches) Hips (inches)
 6  28  46
8 29 47
10 31 48
12 33  49
14 35 51
16 36 53
18 37 55
20 39 57
22 41 1/2 59
24 43 1/2 61

Materials:

  • Cotton Fleece or Jersey knit 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 yards (see recommendations below)
  • Thread to match
  • 2″ Elastic enough to go around your waist
  • Nylon or cotton cord

Tools:

  • Kam or eyelet tool 
  • Two (2) grommets (eyelet + washer)
  • Walking foot if you do not have an overlocker.
  • Optional Stretch Twin Needle (use Schmetz)
  • Bodkin or safety pin (Don't forget to read our recent article on Bodkins!)

Fabric Suggestions:

sweatpants pattern

Where are the instructions and pattern for the sweatpants?

To keep page load times fast, we divide long tutorials like this one into multiple pages.  You can find the page numbers below the sharing buttons at the bottom of this and subsequent pages.  Just click the next page to progress through the tutorial.

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127 Responses to The Sweatpants That Are Not Just For Sweating

  1. elizabeth says:

    do you have a jogger pattern suitable for men?

  2. Kate says:

    Hi just wondering where to find pages 21-24 of the pattern, they’re not in the pdf?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Hi Kate, if you are following the picture of the layout, don’t worry you have all the pages you need. That was an old file and I never changed the picture.

      • Marianne says:

        Oh, I just ‘purchased this pattern from Bluprint.com and my pattern download has 24 pages. Is this wrong? Also, I need a size 22 but am only 4ft 9in tall. I am only a real beginner and I don’t know how to shorten the pattern. Will this be too difficult for me? TIA, Marianne

        • Mayra Cecilia says:

          Hi Marianne, I am afraid it will be without a video. Let me do the video and then you can follow along. To make the alteration you do need to shorten the legs. I will go over that in the video. No it is not wrong, please see how the patter is layout so you can piece it together, read the instructions and if you have a question just ask, I make sure to cover it on the video.

          • Karen says:

            I realize your comment was just made today regarding a video to show how to alter the legs on the pattern. Have you any idea when this will be available? I need the same information. Thanks.

          • Mayra Cecilia says:

            Soon it takes me around 50 hours to make a video, edit and do voice over, it is very tedious but getting there.

          • Marianne says:

            Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly! I eagerly await your video. I am also wondering about my crotch measurement as I am rather generously endowed both back and front, so even though the pattern may fit my waist measurement will the crotch be deep enough to accommodate my generous figure. Thank you so much for all you do!

          • Mayra Cecilia says:

            Hi Marianne, this is a pattern alteration that you must learn to be able to make clothes that fit you properly. I will make a tutorial just for this alteration, stay tuned, I will try my best to get it out by next week.

  3. Danielle Goldberg says:

    Three quick questions. First thank you for this pattern. Due to a medical condition I have to wear loose cloths and I think this pattern with work well for what I need. Now for the questions, can I make this pattern with thinner elastic? all I have is .75 inch and it does not seem likely I will be able to get more anytime soon. Secondly, how can I modify the instruction so I don’t need to use the metal grommets. Lastly, I am unable to get any of the nylon cord for the drawstring. What would be the best alternative?

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Hi Danielle, You can use thinner elastic since you will have a cord around your waist. You can make two buttonholes instead of using grommets and lastly, you can sew two shoelaces together, or make a long tie made with thick bias tape. Do let me know if there is anything else I can do for you.

      • Bennie Owen says:

        You could also make a matching cord by cutting your fabic on the bias. Cut the fabric two times the width of a finished cord, plus seam allowance. Fold the bias in half and stitch. Turn right side out (I use the Fast turn tools). Since bias will not fray or run like hosiery all you need to do with the ends is to tie a knot after you have inserted the cord into the pants casing. I hope this helps.

  4. Marjana Polajnar says:

    Hi there, do you have this pattern (and others) in centimeters too?
    Thank you

  5. Munday Moore says:

    on the stretch needle twin what size? so confused as to which to use?

  6. Karen says:

    I love sweat pants but because I am 5″1″ raw do not fit! I have a 52″ waist and 56″ hip — sweats that fit are almost a foot too long! It pains me to have to “remake” raw, why not start from scratch? So I do! However I haven’t found (until now) a pattern that had the nice pockets. Thank you so much. I have sewn for 60+ years and this is the first time I have found a pattern that I like 🙂 One question — what is the point of the grommets and drawstring? The elastic is there to make them fit the waist, why are drawstrings included on sweats? I usually just cut them off so unless there is a purpose that I’m not aware of, I won’t bother with the grommets and drawstring. I think it would make them look a little more “dressy” in a comfortable way …….

    • Mayra Cecilia says:

      Hi Karen, i am the opposite, if it does not have grommets and a string i do not wear them I need the string to keep the pants up. Simply because the elastic is just there to give the pants a bit of shape but it is not supposed to be tight it also lengthen the life of the pants should the elastic fail with time. If you were a buyer and I am the manufacture, you would pay much less for pants that have no grommets and a drawstring. Lets, say you want 10000 pants, 2 grommets for each pants and at least 39″ of string imagine all the money you would be saving if you just eliminate this detail from your design. However, the most important thing is that you know what looks good on your body and what you like and are looking for. So, I say that is far more important. Great question!

      • Karen says:

        Thank you for the explanation! I have wondered about this for a long time! Darn that “auto correct” — I was trying to say “ready to wear” aka “rtw” and it changed it to raw! Bah humbug!

        • Mayra Cecilia says:

          LOL! I know what you mean, I once wrote CUT and changed it to a very bad word, it wasn’t until a reader sent me an email with the correction that I saw what I was writing, very embarrassing because it did not even know that word in English then, painful lesson.

  7. Sylvie says:

    I can’t find the pocket pattern. Where did you hide it? hahaha

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      HI Silvie, great question, you have to redraw them from the leg pants, one with the slanted side and one with the seam allowance to the waistband and all the way to the sides.

  8. Patricia O says:

    I haven’t downloaded these yet but I have a pair of grey sweatpants (bought at a street market in London over 14/15 years ago) that have developed a hole so this might turn out to be a timely pattern for me!

  9. amber says:

    i may just be stupid but i don’t understand how to cut out the pocket part of the pants what should the pieces look like once they are all cut out

  10. DON THIESSEN says:

    Looking for the download for the pattern. They look awesome!

  11. Janet Ashcroft says:

    can’t find the download!

  12. Brenda Riddle says:

    Where are the 2 pieces that I am suppose to find on the website?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      Hello Brenda! Happy New Year! The two pieces you need to come up with are the ribbing at the waistband and the ankles. The measurement depends on the size you have chosen and the type of material, Please read the instructions before you attend this project. Thank you 🙂

  13. Jazz Monroe says:

    Link to free pattern not working?

  14. Maxx says:

    Fabulous work, Ladies, thank you! Makes a quick run to the store doable without a wardrobe change!

  15. Cele says:

    Thanks so much for the pattern. Pics are always great, however, a nice you tube video would help those of us that are true beginners and need just a tad bit more visuals–my main reason for not downloading any of the patterns (thank you for having free patterns)

  16. Sew Hoppy says:

    Where is the download link for the pattern? I have searched and searched without results.

  17. Chris Casey says:

    THANK YOU SO much!!!! Those of us over the age of 30somthing need a less fitted pant. At 72, I wouln’t be caught dead in leggins!!! People would throw rocks!! Thanks again, you two are absolutely the BEST!

  18. Sue Volek says:

    I’m very pear-shaped but very short. I can finally have some sweats that aren’t 9 inches too long!!! A million thanks!

  19. WheelyBad says:

    I can’t wait to make these, thank you so much

    wishing you a happy, healthy, successful 2019

  20. Sue Addison says:

    I don’t see the fabric suggestions. Just a picture. What kind of fabric did you use for the pair pictured?

    • Mayra at So Sew Easy says:

      The first item on the list of materials is my sugestion for fabrics. I used a more difficult to find Jackard knit. I bought mine at Spotlight.com.au in Sydney, Australia.

  21. Jean Tanner says:

    Thank you for all the free patterns, they are so handy.

  22. Verna says:

    I think both of you are great! Thank you for your generosity!

  23. dotpaulk says:

    Love the fabric of your pants, is it available to purchase for these pants?

  24. D. Joy Summers says:

    This looks like something I would like to try. And for the first time use my serger for construction of a garment.

  25. Karen Cole says:

    I just need sweatpants pattern to cover a huge hernia, but need tapered legs so they will NOT look like sweatpanys, but rathet like slacks. Can I get help with tapering the legs?

    • Bennie Owen says:

      Here is how I taper my pants legs. I have a master pants pattern. I lay a new piece of Pattern Ease on top of my master pattern. I draw the entire pattern again. Front and back. Put the master away. Use a long ruler and starting at the hip I move the ruler to the bottom of the pattern leaving the top of the ruler at or near the hip line. Whatever you reduce the amount by you need to reduce the same amount on the inside leg as well. This is done by measuring from the center of the pants leg (Grain Line). You have an equal amount on each side of the grain line. This is done in the opposite way for Palazzo pants.
      I always make a sample first to make sure I like the width of the legs. Be sure to mark your new pattern as to the style you have chosen, i.e. Tapered legs, Palazzo legs.

What do you think?