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Step One: Attaching the sleeves to the back and front of the hoodie
The sleeves are in the raglan style, which means the sleeves will start at the neckline. They will cover the entire shoulder and end up before the wrist bone. At first, the sleeves may seem short but remember we will be adding a ribbing at the wrist.
For purposes of this tutorial, I have chosen a fabric that is easy to see the right and wrong sides. Please keep this in mind when you are making your own hoodie especially when making the hood and the pockets.
We will start sewing the dart on the sleeve.
Right sides together, pin the darts. Sew the dart on the sleeve at 3/8″. When you reach the end of the dart, extend (taper) your seam 3/4″ or 2 cm to avoid a bubble forming at the shoulder.
Place the back piece right side down on your table. The crease you see is the fold of the fabric. Pin the back side of the sleeve. To make your life easier, lift the back piece slightly and slide the sleeve under. You may notice that I have forgotten a notch on the sleeve to show you the front and back. On your sleeve, the higher side is the back.
It is time to attach the front side. You will pin the front to the front side of the sleeve. Sew at 3/8″. We will be closing the sleeves and the sides of the hoodie, so pin from the wrists to the hem of the hoodie and sew at 3/8″.
I will be showing you a way to sew the facing and the zipper jacket at the same time but, before that, we need to have the hood ready.
Step Two: Sewing the hood
Right sides together, sew at 3/8″ and iron the seam allowance to one side.Top stitch using a stretch stitch if your machine has one or a very narrow zigzag. Repeat on the contrasting fabric. I am using a red cotton Jersey knit.Using your pattern, mark the placement of the grommets. You will only need to add the grommet to the outside fabric. Because we are using knit, you will find that the hole does not need to be too large. Mine is 5mm wide.Attach the grommet following the instructions from the package. If you are using a Kam tool like mine, place the male or eyelet part of the grommet first.Place the fabric print/right side down. Then the washer and press.Repeat on the other side. It is time to join the two layers of the hood. Right sides facing each other, pin around the face.
Sew at 3/8″. I have changed my bobbin thread to match the white fabric. If you are using contrasting fabric make sure you do the same to match each side of the hood.
Turn the hood inside out. Change your foot to a zipper foot to be able to sew next to the grommet. We are going to make the channel for the cord. Sew 1″ from the edge.