I know several of you treated yourselves to the Brother 1034D serger (alternative UK link) at Christmas when it was on special on Amazon. Me too! (Remember the embarrassing video of me taking it out of the box and not knowing what anything was?)
It comes with a plastic cover, but let's face it, it can be described as ‘flimsy' at best. Here in Cayman I live right on the sea and the air is always humid and salty. Anything and everything in the house rusts and disintegrates in no time, and my serger is no exception. It's already going rusty, and I think my sewing machine is in bad shape too. I'm not sure a cover will help, because the air all around it is what's causing the rust, but I have to try to protect it better if I can.
So I drafted up a simple pattern. There are two options. Either make a lining to cover up your inside seams, or leave it unlined – up to you. My fabric stash is small and precious to me so I'm making mine without the lining, but instructions are included it you want to make yours pretty on the inside too.
Materials needed to make a cover for the Brother 1034D serger
- Cotton fabric – total 3/4 yard
- Optional – if making a lining, you'll need another 3/4 yard for that on top
- Fusible fleece – a piece 26 by 33 inches
- Any decorative elements you want to add such as appliques, buttons, trims
- The pattern download -see below
How to sew the Brother 1034D serger cover
I wanted to model my cover on the Spring Applique Pillow Cover I made recently because I had fabric and Shabby Shapes left over, and because it was so darned pretty. I loved how bright and colorful this is. So my cover is made to match.
Cut 1 piece of fabric 14 inches wide by 33 inches long. This will be the center panel that runs front to back. I wanted a little accent piece on mine at the bottom so I joined two pieces together to create the single length. You can split yours into as many pieces or stripes as you like, so long as the finished piece measures 14 by 33 inches.
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Iron your fusible fleece to the back of this panel. If you are adding any decorative elements such as applique etc then add this now. You could also choose to add a couple of simple pockets to hold some sewing supplies at this stage too. (Read the earlier post about the pillow to learn about this sketched applique).
Cut your two side panels. Remember one will need to be the mirror image of the other. Iron the fusible fleece to the reverse of these two panels as well.
Now it's just a case of sewing it all together! I found it easiest to mark on my 1/2 inch seam allowances and where they overlap at the shaping of the cover is my pivot point.
Sew to the pivot point, leave your needle down and then pivot the fabric until the two raw edges are meeting again. Then sew to your next pivot point, and continue until one side is completed sewn in.
Repeat for the other side and check for ‘fit'. Trim up around the bottom if you need to/like to.
If you don't feel the need to add a lining, just turn up your bottom edge all the way around and stitch it in place. I used a nice wide 1 inch hem as it seems to give the bottom edge a bit of extra stability.
That's it, the serger cover is finished.
If you want to line your cover
Once you are happy with fit decide on whether or not to line it. If you want to make a lining, complete it the same way you did for the outer piece, (fleece is optional) but leave a gap in your stitches along one of the back edges so you can turn it later – just like you do with a bag.
Then put the outer right side out and the lining right side in. Put the outer inside the lining. Match the raw edges around the bottom and sew them together. Turn out the right way, close the gap in your lining and sew the two together around the entire bottom perimeter with a nice wide band.
Now all of your raw edges are hidden and your cover is just as nice on the inside as it is on the outside.
Enjoy your serging!
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