Welcome to Episode 9 in the How to Sew A Skirt Sew-along series. The subject for today is: Lining a Skirt with Zipper – part 2
If you have been following along in the Sew A Skirt series, then you have your basic skirt shape finished complete with darts, zipper and the lining is attached at the waist. Now it's time to finish off the lining – and we are going to do it all by machine for a nice neat finish. No hand sewing for us!
Lining a skirt with zipper
If you haven't yet added the lining to your skirt at the waist, do go back to Part 1 of the Lining a Skirt and do that first. Then…
- Turn the skirt right side out with the lining on the outside and turn over the top waist hem at the line of stitching, with the hem towards the lining on the outside.
- Keep the center back seam of the skirt out flat and pin the edge of the skirt lining to the zipper tape from top to bottom of the zip. It should look like this.
- Repeat the same and pin on the other side of the zipper.
- Use your adjustable or regular zipper foot to sew down the side of the zipper, attaching the lining to the zipper tape underneath. Don't get so close as you did for the zipper itself, leave a small gap so the lining won't get caught in the zipper teeth.
- Do both sides of the zipper, stopping just where the zipper pull comes at the bottom.
- Now turn the back of the skirt the right side out and check your lining. If it isn't quite close enough and isn't attached to the zipper tape in one or two places, then simply turn it back again and sew a little closer. No need to remove the original stitches.
- Once you are happy, just trim away some of the bulky fabric at the top part of the seam corner, and turn the skirt the right way out, pressing those corners out nice and neatly at the top of the zipper.
- Now its time to finish off the bottom of the skirt center back seam using your zipper foot. Start sewing at the top where you just finished off at the zipper tape, back stitch to secure and then stitch all the way to the bottom. If you don't remember how to do this, you can look back at the earlier instructions for how to sew an invisible zipper.
- Neaten the edges of that center back seam.
- It should look something like this from the inside.
- Now time to give the top of the skirt a good pressing. Turn the skirt the right way out and press around the top of the skirt, just slightly turning the lining to the inside so it can't be seen from the outside. You should be able to get a nice neat finish on the waistline and at the zipper, both inside and out. Press that center back seam open too.
Your skirt is nearly finished. Try it on again and make sure you are happy with the fit before going any further. It's still not to late if you need to take in the waist or side seams a little. Just turn it inside out and restitch the side seams in you need to.
Our next step
A quick recap of what we have completed so far in case you have missed a step and need to review :
- Overview, tools and equipment and choosing your fabric
- Drafting your custom fit pattern, and all about ease and seam allowances
- Cutting your fabric and pattern matching
- Marking darts perfectly
- Sewing darts perfectly
- All about zipper feet
- Sewing an invisible zipper
- Lining a skirt – part 1
Join me soon for the next step in our Sew A Skirt series – Sewing an Invisible Hem
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